Andrews 54H cam results
#1
11-02-2009, 12:19 AM
Andrews 54H cam results
Just installed 54H camset. Using on an 2800 mile '07 FXDC with Ness big sucker and Cycle Shacks and XIED's.
Results:
1) XIED's and Cycle Shacks turnouts = The O2 foolers barely kept the heat and leanness in check, always felt on the verge of being unacceptable in terms of closed loop drivability and heat. Open loop / on-the-throttle was fine. Cycle Shack's are extremely non-nestrictive mufflers.
2) XIED', Cycle Shacks, Ness A/C = Created vibration buzz any time engine was in closed loop operation, felt buzz in footpegs and engine itself. Open loop had a bit of surging, hunting and erratic sense of operation, and some pinging in 5th/6th roll-on's. VERY hot running, knew that I would need a tune soon.
3) XIED's, Cycle Shacks, Ness, Andrews 54H = Just threw the cam set in, stock pushrods, etc., a quick cam install. Well..... I was fully expecting to have to hit the "buy now" button on the TTS website to get the bike running right. Not even close. The bike runs incredible. It actually smells RICH at idle. It does not "tinkle" after you park it from rapid metal heat cooling. It runs VERY cool, smooth, no vibration, sounds great, and pulls so hard the clutch starts to slip in 5th and 6th gear roll-on's.
Thus, I guess I do need a tune at some point, I an a realist and I know that my AFR's must be whacked out, but I tell you, the 54H camset sure seems to cure the lean condition, and I am going to ride it like this for now, except I now need an SE clutch spring and ATF in the primary.
As far as a cam selection, anyone pondering the 54H as a cam selection, it is a good one. It appears Andrews really did build a nice FX grind for a TC96.
This cam feels like the TC96 equivalent of a Shovelhead Andrews "B" grind, or the Crane .510 in an Evo. Great sound, smooth, predictable, and pulls like a train.
My $.02
Results:
1) XIED's and Cycle Shacks turnouts = The O2 foolers barely kept the heat and leanness in check, always felt on the verge of being unacceptable in terms of closed loop drivability and heat. Open loop / on-the-throttle was fine. Cycle Shack's are extremely non-nestrictive mufflers.
2) XIED', Cycle Shacks, Ness A/C = Created vibration buzz any time engine was in closed loop operation, felt buzz in footpegs and engine itself. Open loop had a bit of surging, hunting and erratic sense of operation, and some pinging in 5th/6th roll-on's. VERY hot running, knew that I would need a tune soon.
3) XIED's, Cycle Shacks, Ness, Andrews 54H = Just threw the cam set in, stock pushrods, etc., a quick cam install. Well..... I was fully expecting to have to hit the "buy now" button on the TTS website to get the bike running right. Not even close. The bike runs incredible. It actually smells RICH at idle. It does not "tinkle" after you park it from rapid metal heat cooling. It runs VERY cool, smooth, no vibration, sounds great, and pulls so hard the clutch starts to slip in 5th and 6th gear roll-on's.
Thus, I guess I do need a tune at some point, I an a realist and I know that my AFR's must be whacked out, but I tell you, the 54H camset sure seems to cure the lean condition, and I am going to ride it like this for now, except I now need an SE clutch spring and ATF in the primary.
As far as a cam selection, anyone pondering the 54H as a cam selection, it is a good one. It appears Andrews really did build a nice FX grind for a TC96.
This cam feels like the TC96 equivalent of a Shovelhead Andrews "B" grind, or the Crane .510 in an Evo. Great sound, smooth, predictable, and pulls like a train.
My $.02
#3
11-03-2009, 06:36 PM
Yeah they are high lift cams
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/PDF_f...ainCam0708.pdf
Are you really not running any tuning hardware aside from XiEDs? This all kinda sounds like a recipe for disaster.
http://www.andrewsproducts.com/PDF_f...ainCam0708.pdf
Are you really not running any tuning hardware aside from XiEDs? This all kinda sounds like a recipe for disaster.
#7
11-03-2009, 07:28 PM
Club Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Passaic County, NJ
Posts: 11,474
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
18 Posts
Trending Topics
#8
11-03-2009, 11:41 PM
Just installed 54H camset. Using on an 2800 mile '07 FXDC with Ness big sucker and Cycle Shacks and XIED's.
Results:
1) XIED's and Cycle Shacks turnouts = The O2 foolers barely kept the heat and leanness in check, always felt on the verge of being unacceptable in terms of closed loop drivability and heat. Open loop / on-the-throttle was fine. Cycle Shack's are extremely non-nestrictive mufflers.
2) XIED', Cycle Shacks, Ness A/C = Created vibration buzz any time engine was in closed loop operation, felt buzz in footpegs and engine itself. Open loop had a bit of surging, hunting and erratic sense of operation, and some pinging in 5th/6th roll-on's. VERY hot running, knew that I would need a tune soon.
3) XIED's, Cycle Shacks, Ness, Andrews 54H = Just threw the cam set in, stock pushrods, etc., a quick cam install. Well..... I was fully expecting to have to hit the "buy now" button on the TTS website to get the bike running right. Not even close. The bike runs incredible. It actually smells RICH at idle. It does not "tinkle" after you park it from rapid metal heat cooling. It runs VERY cool, smooth, no vibration, sounds great, and pulls so hard the clutch starts to slip in 5th and 6th gear roll-on's.
Thus, I guess I do need a tune at some point, I an a realist and I know that my AFR's must be whacked out, but I tell you, the 54H camset sure seems to cure the lean condition, and I am going to ride it like this for now, except I now need an SE clutch spring and ATF in the primary.
As far as a cam selection, anyone pondering the 54H as a cam selection, it is a good one. It appears Andrews really did build a nice FX grind for a TC96.
This cam feels like the TC96 equivalent of a Shovelhead Andrews "B" grind, or the Crane .510 in an Evo. Great sound, smooth, predictable, and pulls like a train.
My $.02
Results:
1) XIED's and Cycle Shacks turnouts = The O2 foolers barely kept the heat and leanness in check, always felt on the verge of being unacceptable in terms of closed loop drivability and heat. Open loop / on-the-throttle was fine. Cycle Shack's are extremely non-nestrictive mufflers.
2) XIED', Cycle Shacks, Ness A/C = Created vibration buzz any time engine was in closed loop operation, felt buzz in footpegs and engine itself. Open loop had a bit of surging, hunting and erratic sense of operation, and some pinging in 5th/6th roll-on's. VERY hot running, knew that I would need a tune soon.
3) XIED's, Cycle Shacks, Ness, Andrews 54H = Just threw the cam set in, stock pushrods, etc., a quick cam install. Well..... I was fully expecting to have to hit the "buy now" button on the TTS website to get the bike running right. Not even close. The bike runs incredible. It actually smells RICH at idle. It does not "tinkle" after you park it from rapid metal heat cooling. It runs VERY cool, smooth, no vibration, sounds great, and pulls so hard the clutch starts to slip in 5th and 6th gear roll-on's.
Thus, I guess I do need a tune at some point, I an a realist and I know that my AFR's must be whacked out, but I tell you, the 54H camset sure seems to cure the lean condition, and I am going to ride it like this for now, except I now need an SE clutch spring and ATF in the primary.
As far as a cam selection, anyone pondering the 54H as a cam selection, it is a good one. It appears Andrews really did build a nice FX grind for a TC96.
This cam feels like the TC96 equivalent of a Shovelhead Andrews "B" grind, or the Crane .510 in an Evo. Great sound, smooth, predictable, and pulls like a train.
My $.02
Do you have any installation tips to offer?
#9
11-04-2009, 12:52 AM
Yep:
Lift rear wheel off ground with a lift, jack, whatever.
Place bike in 5th gear.
Loosen front tank bolt.
Remove rear tank bolt.
Unplug fuel line at tank. Lift tank up and place a 2x4 block under tank.
Pull spark plugs.
Remove 12 upper rocker cover bolts.
Loosen 8 big and 4 small rocker arm cradle bolts EVENLY!!!.
Remove pushrod cover clips.
Collapse pushrod covers. Remove pushrods up&out of the lifter blocks. Leave entire rocker cradle on the head, just manuever pushrods past them.
Loosen front exhaust pipe EVERY BOLT.
Loosen front exhaust mount under cam cover. This takes the most time and patience as the Torx head screws are a pain to loosen. You need a short Torx bit.
Remove cam cover, put oil catch pan under bike.
Install 4 STRONG pen magnets on all lifters. Tie wire them to head.
Remove cam sprockets by holding rear brake while bike is in gear.
Pull sprockets. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT LINING UP MARKS during all this, it only can be reassembled one way.
Remove Torx held chain tensioner (no big deal) all cam housing allen screws. SAVE the 4 oil pump bolts as for OIL PUMP ONLY, as they have not been goobered up with Harley loctite.
Pull entire deal out.
BE CAREFUL AS OIL PUMP IMPELLER (Gererotor) will try to fall out with cam housing!!!
Reach behind and stuff oil pump impeller back into oil pump.
Lay housing flat, remove snap ring and thrust washer and inner chain tensioner. Change cams, line up CAM TIMING MARKS -----CRITICAL. Install snap ring, thrust washer and inner tensioner.
Reinstall housing. Install all HOUSING bolts and torque them. LEAVE 4 oil pump bolts just loose enough for bolt to barely touch housing. Spin back wheel in 5th gear, and slowly tighten oil pump bolts in sequence.
All small allen bolts torque to 110 in. lbs.
Line up chain sprocket dots, rotate rear wheel so crank notch and cam splines allow sprockets to line up.
Do the measuring of the cam sprockets deal to find the correct spacer washer thickness.
Torque down both sprocket bolts with locktite, hold rear brake while in 5th gear.
Make sure everything all lined up.
Install cam cover, and everything else "in reverse".
Total time: Approx 3 hours.
Use better instructions from that Aussie website, but that dude went WAYYY into too much detail, and uses TOOO much moly lube on stuff.
You do not need to spend $100 on adjustable pushrods, when it takes an extra 10 minutes to pull the rockers.
NO GASKETS NEEDED.
You might need a rear cam spacer washer.
Lift rear wheel off ground with a lift, jack, whatever.
Place bike in 5th gear.
Loosen front tank bolt.
Remove rear tank bolt.
Unplug fuel line at tank. Lift tank up and place a 2x4 block under tank.
Pull spark plugs.
Remove 12 upper rocker cover bolts.
Loosen 8 big and 4 small rocker arm cradle bolts EVENLY!!!.
Remove pushrod cover clips.
Collapse pushrod covers. Remove pushrods up&out of the lifter blocks. Leave entire rocker cradle on the head, just manuever pushrods past them.
Loosen front exhaust pipe EVERY BOLT.
Loosen front exhaust mount under cam cover. This takes the most time and patience as the Torx head screws are a pain to loosen. You need a short Torx bit.
Remove cam cover, put oil catch pan under bike.
Install 4 STRONG pen magnets on all lifters. Tie wire them to head.
Remove cam sprockets by holding rear brake while bike is in gear.
Pull sprockets. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT LINING UP MARKS during all this, it only can be reassembled one way.
Remove Torx held chain tensioner (no big deal) all cam housing allen screws. SAVE the 4 oil pump bolts as for OIL PUMP ONLY, as they have not been goobered up with Harley loctite.
Pull entire deal out.
BE CAREFUL AS OIL PUMP IMPELLER (Gererotor) will try to fall out with cam housing!!!
Reach behind and stuff oil pump impeller back into oil pump.
Lay housing flat, remove snap ring and thrust washer and inner chain tensioner. Change cams, line up CAM TIMING MARKS -----CRITICAL. Install snap ring, thrust washer and inner tensioner.
Reinstall housing. Install all HOUSING bolts and torque them. LEAVE 4 oil pump bolts just loose enough for bolt to barely touch housing. Spin back wheel in 5th gear, and slowly tighten oil pump bolts in sequence.
All small allen bolts torque to 110 in. lbs.
Line up chain sprocket dots, rotate rear wheel so crank notch and cam splines allow sprockets to line up.
Do the measuring of the cam sprockets deal to find the correct spacer washer thickness.
Torque down both sprocket bolts with locktite, hold rear brake while in 5th gear.
Make sure everything all lined up.
Install cam cover, and everything else "in reverse".
Total time: Approx 3 hours.
Use better instructions from that Aussie website, but that dude went WAYYY into too much detail, and uses TOOO much moly lube on stuff.
You do not need to spend $100 on adjustable pushrods, when it takes an extra 10 minutes to pull the rockers.
NO GASKETS NEEDED.
You might need a rear cam spacer washer.
Last edited by Lama; 11-04-2009 at 12:59 AM.
#10
11-04-2009, 01:09 AM
Road Captain