front tire installation... first time
#11
#12
MUD,
Not to question your expertise, but I just double checked my bike and my spacers are up against the fork tubes with no yellow arrow gap. It was that way before I pulled my front wheel and I made sure it was aligned the same when I put it back together. It's been that way for a couple thousand miles and it is solid. I even tried wiggling it tonight and it's good. But could I have it wrong?? I know I'll find out for sure in a couple weeks cause I got my 21" wheel, just waiting for my spokes and I'll double check then, but I just want to make sure now through our resident expert. I don't remember any shoulder on the axle, it was just a straight "pipe" basically.
Thanks, Jaron
Not to question your expertise, but I just double checked my bike and my spacers are up against the fork tubes with no yellow arrow gap. It was that way before I pulled my front wheel and I made sure it was aligned the same when I put it back together. It's been that way for a couple thousand miles and it is solid. I even tried wiggling it tonight and it's good. But could I have it wrong?? I know I'll find out for sure in a couple weeks cause I got my 21" wheel, just waiting for my spokes and I'll double check then, but I just want to make sure now through our resident expert. I don't remember any shoulder on the axle, it was just a straight "pipe" basically.
Thanks, Jaron
#14
#15
Yellow arrow: if no space, fork tubes may be pull together and cause stiction - the force required to cause one body (fork tube) in contact with another (fork seal) to begin to move.
Blue arrow: I have always liked the gap to be the same on both sides of the cap. Probably makes no difference but that's the way I am. So I would loosen the back nuts and tighten the front nuts. Then torque.
Blue arrow: I have always liked the gap to be the same on both sides of the cap. Probably makes no difference but that's the way I am. So I would loosen the back nuts and tighten the front nuts. Then torque.
#16
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
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whats all this about a 7/16th bit? I didn't see anything about it in the manual when I installed my wheel, and just double checked and still didn't see anything? Also, the spacers on my scoot seem to be the same size, and the manual really doesnt differentiate between the two, just explains them as 'spacers'
#17
Had my front wheel off several times and I have the yellow arrow gap. I dont worry much about the blue arrow gap except if there wasnt a gap there at all. Then Id be worried.
My manual mentions the 7/16 bit. Its the same size as the hole in the axle. Aligns it with the outside edge of the fork.
My manual mentions the 7/16 bit. Its the same size as the hole in the axle. Aligns it with the outside edge of the fork.
#18
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
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thats really weird, maybe its different between years? the only thing it mentions is to use a rod in the hole while tightening.
another questions for you guys, the manual explains 'install spacers' prior to the actual wheel installation. should the spacers be fitting anywhere into the wheel bore, because they definitely dont. or are they just put on while your sliding the axle through.
another questions for you guys, the manual explains 'install spacers' prior to the actual wheel installation. should the spacers be fitting anywhere into the wheel bore, because they definitely dont. or are they just put on while your sliding the axle through.
#19
Ive had some bikes where the spacer will insert into the bearing seal but not on my Harley. Don’t know exactly what they mean there.
Just checked my manual, its an 07. Talks about the drill bit in section 2-10 and even shows the yellow arrow gap. Says the blue arrow gap should be the same on the front and rear of the slider cap.
Just checked my manual, its an 07. Talks about the drill bit in section 2-10 and even shows the yellow arrow gap. Says the blue arrow gap should be the same on the front and rear of the slider cap.
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