Fat Bob Handlebar on a Wide Glide?
#1
Fat Bob Handlebar on a Wide Glide?
I love the Fat Bob handlebar and can't stand the bar on my '10 Wide Glide. The dealer said it would be a simple change out, so I ordered the Fat Bob bars ($150). Now they're in, and they're telling me they were wrong and because the bars are internally wired they will have to take off the gas tank. They want to charge me 6 hours of labor! Is it really that hard?
Is this a changeout anyone else has made? I'll do it myself if I can. There's no way I'm paying $500 in labor. I searched for an hour to find a "How-To" post but didn't have any luck.
Thanks for the help guys.
Is this a changeout anyone else has made? I'll do it myself if I can. There's no way I'm paying $500 in labor. I searched for an hour to find a "How-To" post but didn't have any luck.
Thanks for the help guys.
#5
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Passaic County, NJ
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Also,
this isn't necessarily the easiest way but it will get you there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52clbzQ2reg
this isn't necessarily the easiest way but it will get you there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52clbzQ2reg
#6
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#9
I changed out the bars on my Fat Bob. Was time consuming because I had to pull the wiring connectors apart but I did it in 3 hours in my garage so either your dealer is full of fat lazy ****tards or they charge everything by the book regardless of if it actually takes that long which is the "hooray for me and **** you" way to run a business.
I would suggest making a diagram of the wires as you get them apart cause its 8+3 on one side for controls and turn signal and 6+3 on the other side and the control strands are all different colors plus you need to orient them according to the internal guide in the connector. Being internally wired the connectors have to come off in order to work the wire strands and braided wrap out of the bars and then slide them into the new bars which is a royal pain in the ***. Like I said time consuming but not rocket science, well maybe not for us anyways as the dealer seems to think it is. The braided wrap is the biggest pain in the process cause that **** catches on every slightly jagged surface it comes in contact with and the inside of the bars were never polished so the openings like to grab the wrap. Try not to pull the wires out so much as feed the slack into the bars and then slinky worm pull the excess out and reverse that feeding them into the new bars by feeding as much as will fit into the bars and then lightly pulling that portion out of the center holes. Otherwise you'll discover the edge of the holes in the bars just chewed up the braided wrap quite a bit.
Or skip all of that and just run externally wired if your willing to grind off some of the controls surface around the bars which I did when I swapped to 1" non internal. I'm on my 3rd set of bars and still not quite satisfied with the look and feel
As far as the wires under the tank you can actually get them out of the recess under the tank without moving the tank but if you got big hands like me its just easier to lift the tank up high enough to get at the opening in the front of the frame just under the triple trees. There is a plastic protector that covers the opening in the frame where you can access the wiring harness and honestly that was more of a pain in the *** to keep out of the way than the tank was. Also remember not to slide your throttle grip tight against the new bars as they should actually be about 1/4" or so away from the bars so they snap back freely when you let go. Try them repeatedly before you snug them down or you might find your throttle will stick which is bad.
I would suggest making a diagram of the wires as you get them apart cause its 8+3 on one side for controls and turn signal and 6+3 on the other side and the control strands are all different colors plus you need to orient them according to the internal guide in the connector. Being internally wired the connectors have to come off in order to work the wire strands and braided wrap out of the bars and then slide them into the new bars which is a royal pain in the ***. Like I said time consuming but not rocket science, well maybe not for us anyways as the dealer seems to think it is. The braided wrap is the biggest pain in the process cause that **** catches on every slightly jagged surface it comes in contact with and the inside of the bars were never polished so the openings like to grab the wrap. Try not to pull the wires out so much as feed the slack into the bars and then slinky worm pull the excess out and reverse that feeding them into the new bars by feeding as much as will fit into the bars and then lightly pulling that portion out of the center holes. Otherwise you'll discover the edge of the holes in the bars just chewed up the braided wrap quite a bit.
Or skip all of that and just run externally wired if your willing to grind off some of the controls surface around the bars which I did when I swapped to 1" non internal. I'm on my 3rd set of bars and still not quite satisfied with the look and feel
As far as the wires under the tank you can actually get them out of the recess under the tank without moving the tank but if you got big hands like me its just easier to lift the tank up high enough to get at the opening in the front of the frame just under the triple trees. There is a plastic protector that covers the opening in the frame where you can access the wiring harness and honestly that was more of a pain in the *** to keep out of the way than the tank was. Also remember not to slide your throttle grip tight against the new bars as they should actually be about 1/4" or so away from the bars so they snap back freely when you let go. Try them repeatedly before you snug them down or you might find your throttle will stick which is bad.
Last edited by xantasm; 12-31-2011 at 02:35 PM.
#10