Welcome to the forum from the Netherlands, Mark!

Unfortunately I do not have any tech info on 2009 Dyna models so not able to help you out on this one.

In general I would like to add a +1 to dyna rider's advice.....

There should be a 15 Amp fuse for the fuel pump in your electric pannel; check out this 2008 (same as 2009) wiring diagram from my index.

If you want me to put your location on this map, please let me know in a post over here:

***HDF members in Europe map***

Best regards & ride safe,

It sounding like a two fold problem. Bad battery and the security system. I say this because when you jumped it you got lights but the bike would not start. You stated a blinking red key also. The blinking red key is for the security system. Try this, charge or replace the battery and verify the cables are secure at the battery terminals as well as at the other end, frame and starter. If you get lights and it will not start and the red key is blinking due the manual security system overide to turn off the security system......

No Power
 

Change the FOB battery no matter how old it is, check all the fuses with a multimeter, and charge the battery with a charger and not a tender.
BTW make sure you don't over cook the battery on the charger.

I checked all my fuse's with a tester, all are good and the battery connections are good. Checked the battery last night which was at 75% and left it on the tender over night up to 100%.

As for the security system override I can't get it to work. When I turn the switch to ignition I get headlights, brake lights, red key light, and miles. Turn signals don't flash like they usually do if I don't have the fob/fob dead. Turn signal lights don't work either, when I hold them both to do the override nothing happens. Their is no fuel pump sound with the run switch on, and it doesn't turn over so I'm sure it's some kind of ignition problem.

It sounds like it is in the Transport Mode. You need to have the FOB with you to get it out of this mode. One last thing to try that I can think of is to replace the battery in the FOB so you know it is a good battery then turn the Ignition to On and Set the Off/Run switch to Run.....

I will try a new battery in the fob. I never put the bike in transport mode though, just disconnected the battery..

Still not starting....

That is strange. What type of shipping crate did it ship in ? How was it shipped ? I know these sound like strange questions but this is a strange happening. If the bike was flown possibly the change in air pressure in the cargo bay may have foo barred the chips in the TSSM or the ECM. This is a long shot I know, but chips do fail in computers sometimes even with a temperature change. Did the ohm reading on all the fuses (of same amp) have similar or close readings ?
You obviously are using the correct (European) hertz cycle converters for your trickle charger or I would think it would have blown the charger. Or you probably bought the charger over there and it's made for the different hertz. Just fishing here.
Anybody on the forum here know how to test the TSSM module ? I would be reluctant to tell him to ask the Dealer to do that since depending on the Dealer it could mean an immediate high dollar expense even it there was nothing wrong with it.

OP--

Just found this thread. Have not heard from you since I answered your request for help. Try PM, instead. Your owners manual has the complete rundown on your security system.

ONLY disconnecting & reconnecting the battery ground will not cause any problem; I've done it to mine numerous times. But your owners manual does warn about jump-starting, IIRC. Might have messed up a black box.

I never did see if you had taken the battery to a place that can do a load test on it. Just to make sure it's not the battery. I have seen batteries that will trickle charge all night but they still won't produce enough current to turn the starter since their plates are deteriorated even though they have not shorted out yet. They will show 12v across their posts but they don't have enough electrons stored on the remaining plates to function.

Do you have a friends bike that you can switch batteries and see if his bike starts and if your bike starts.

I have heard about not jumping a bike from a auto, so this may have been the final straw in an aging battery. But if the auto you jumped from was not running then I would not think the volt/current push of the auto battery alone would have been boosted enough to harm your battery during the limited time of a jump. Modern day electronics have somewhat outdated my old knowledge but back when I was younger the only thing overcharging or jumping from a running vehicle would do was overheat the jumped battery causing the fluid to evaporate if left long enough. This same scenario is prevented on a self contained vehicle by the voltage regulator. It will shut down the voltage going back to the battery if the generator or alternator is producing too high a voltage in relation to current load.

But again, once the battery has for sure been eliminated then it would appear to be a matter of testing each black box, the TSSM first and the ECM if the TSSM if ok. Usually from the way I learned this stuff yrs ago the voltage regulator is only considered if you have a problem keeping your battery charged while normal running, or in some rare cases if the battery was overheated due to Voltage regulator malfunction. But again I may not understand the more modern aspects of it's function. Sure hope you find what's going on with it.