Everything was tight on the axle.

Axle alignment was out a bit.

the bearings get seated so they can't go anywhere.

 

Well, not exactly True ...

On 08-later wheels, if the Bearings have lost enough of their "Interference fit" within the Hub and because of the substantial Gap/Void between the Left bearing and "Bottom" of the bore, it's possible for the wheel/pulley/rotor to move to the Left, while everything else (bearings, spacers, brake bracket) stays in the original position ... (btw, there will be NO Movement to the Right though) .

BOTH bearing outer races would have to move within their bores



While the wheel is off, I would look closely at the installed bearings current positioning ... then i would remove the LEFT bearing and spacer sleeve without disturbing the Right bearing ... then check that Right bearing for having been moved from it's initial "Bottomed Out" position.

 

This thread had gotten my attention since I recently installed new (OEM HD Fatbob powdercoated wheels) and polished (OEM HD Rotors) and new tires (Avon Chrome).....on my '09 FXDF. I don't have pictures but I do remember that "gap" between the Left bearing and "Bottom" of the bore shoulder. I noticed the gap/offset at the time of purchase (bearing race was set slightly below the shoulder) and questioned it , and was told the gap or OFFSET as I call it, was normal. I now see that that offset is normal. Sooooo.....the question for me anyway, becomes WHY or WHAT would cause the change in that offset gap? Naturally , if the bearing starts walking sideways along the axle, hellish things can happen. I do understand that the dependability of a press fit of a bearing into the hub is only as good as the the tolerance between the OD of the bearing race and the ID of the hub. So why would that change? I am assuming that since the wheel is brand new and the bearing is brand new, that the press fit ought to be rock solid. But aluminum can change shape easier than steel over time and load stress. After reading this thread, I am "hoping" everything will be ok, LOL.....or another case of me overthinking crap....I am pretty sure the rear swingarm/wheel/axle/bearing combo is the same from '08 to probably '17. But surely the same from '08 to '09. BTW Happy Near Year To All !

 

Thanks for feedback.

So I got wheel out and had a close look at bearings.

The rotor side is loose. Can remove by hand. Belt side looks okay.

Will have to look up notes but i had a bearing failure maybe 12mnths ago. Went to HD with part no, was given new bearings but different part no.

 

I'd say you found your problem.

Time to take your findings to the lazy dealership and raise some hell. IMO, they owe you.

 

yes, not sure if just bearing at fault.

12months ago i had bearing blowout on rear wheel about 5km from home. cant remember which side

i changed front and rear bearings, had them removed and then i knocked them in with a socket after putting in freezer

is the bearing too small? or maybe I damaged hub when my bearing blewout? not sure now. Will take off front wheel to check those.

Interesting that Aussie81 had bearings changed and straight after the rotor is rubbing brake caliper mount.

 

It's not uncommon for the bearings to be installed wrong. Seems like a stupid design to me, but it is what it is.

 

Thanks so much for everyone's feedback, it has been really helpful!

I'm picking my bike up in the morning. The HD shop has put another set of bearings in it and done about 50ks on it and the wheel is still in the correct position. I will just keep monitoring it.

I can't get over how ridiculous the hub design is. I still don't understand why it was designed like that. There has to be a reason it's like that...

The HD guy is telling me the hub looks fine inside and the bearings have pressed in tight both times.... and so it should be, it's only done 19000 kms.

Seeing as im on the second set of new bearings, I'm thinking that if it moves again, I might put locktite on the bearings just not sure if that's a problem when I need to get them out again? Or if it will even work..
Or shorten the spacer and press the left hand bearing all the way home, then get a longer outer spacer made up?

 

I sincerely hope this last visit was entirely free of charge.

 

You can implement a variation of that idea, but you wouldn't want to literally TRY to "Bottom Out" that Left Rear (Secondary Side) Bearing. It would be unreasonable and unnecessary to make a Spacer Sleeve to the "Perfect" size (+/- .000") to make the bearing "bottom" and at the same time have NO bearing Preload when the axle is torqued down. Sealed Bearing wheels don't work like that.

What you can do (applies only to the 08-later wheels) is after Installing the Primary Bearing (Right on Rear), measure the height difference between the sleeve and the bearing pocket, then make a Bearing shim that is .010-.015" thinner (that would be your MAX "movement).

Examples Below ... NOT exact Dyna wheels






.