rough running and engine light
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: england
rough running and engine light
Hi Guys
Just bought a 2001 Dyna glide sport 1450 twin cam 25000 miles fitted with a 40 mm CV Keihin carb, Hyper charger and Vance and Hines pipes
This is my first big twin having previously owned a WLA 45 an 883 Sportster, a 1200 Sportster and of course, a VMax.
First things first, the engine light is on constantly, Interrogating the data link connector has the following result: light on, light off, 6 fast flashes followed by 1 flash (1 second on 1 second off) pause, then six steady flashes, pause.(16?)
Six fast flashes then pause, four steady flashes, pause, 1 flash, pause, (41?)
six fast flashes, pause, four steady flashes, pause two steady flashes, pause. (42?) six fast flashes, pause, five steady flashes, pause six steady flashes, pause (56?) six fast flashes, then the above sequence repeats.
According to the list thats; 16: Battery low/high historic. 41: CPK sender current 42: cam sender current and 56 unknown.
So: 16 41 42 56
I have checked all fluids and manual adjustments, oil pressure is good and motor is free from any mechanical noises etc.
On the road, the bike pulls like a train but on overrun, the best way to describe it is as though you've got chain and sprockets shot (yes its belt drive) tickover is erratic and if it had 2 carbs, I would say they needed balancing.
I am a competent mechanic so I don't want to just take it to an HD dealer.
I have to get to know the bike or it wont be able to stay!
I am inclined to just replace the two sensors and see what happens but at HD parts prices I am loath to do anything that doesn't result in a fix!
Just a point of note; the bike has been used by its previous owner in all weathers which in England means rain and more rain. I have removed all connectors and cleaned them!
Any advice welcome!
Just bought a 2001 Dyna glide sport 1450 twin cam 25000 miles fitted with a 40 mm CV Keihin carb, Hyper charger and Vance and Hines pipes
This is my first big twin having previously owned a WLA 45 an 883 Sportster, a 1200 Sportster and of course, a VMax.
First things first, the engine light is on constantly, Interrogating the data link connector has the following result: light on, light off, 6 fast flashes followed by 1 flash (1 second on 1 second off) pause, then six steady flashes, pause.(16?)
Six fast flashes then pause, four steady flashes, pause, 1 flash, pause, (41?)
six fast flashes, pause, four steady flashes, pause two steady flashes, pause. (42?) six fast flashes, pause, five steady flashes, pause six steady flashes, pause (56?) six fast flashes, then the above sequence repeats.
According to the list thats; 16: Battery low/high historic. 41: CPK sender current 42: cam sender current and 56 unknown.
So: 16 41 42 56
I have checked all fluids and manual adjustments, oil pressure is good and motor is free from any mechanical noises etc.
On the road, the bike pulls like a train but on overrun, the best way to describe it is as though you've got chain and sprockets shot (yes its belt drive) tickover is erratic and if it had 2 carbs, I would say they needed balancing.
I am a competent mechanic so I don't want to just take it to an HD dealer.
I have to get to know the bike or it wont be able to stay!
I am inclined to just replace the two sensors and see what happens but at HD parts prices I am loath to do anything that doesn't result in a fix!
Just a point of note; the bike has been used by its previous owner in all weathers which in England means rain and more rain. I have removed all connectors and cleaned them!
Any advice welcome!
Last edited by vmaxnick; Apr 17, 2011 at 07:16 AM. Reason: sig
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 859
Likes: 14
From: Millsboro Delaware
I would start with some basic trouble shooting. Judging by the codes you have pulled I would start with the battery and verify that it is good. Have it load tested. Next verify that the battery cables are good and that you have a solid connection both at the battery terminals and at the starter for the hot lead and the frame for the ground. Charging system would be next on my list. Even if the battery turns out to be bad it could have failed due to an inadequate or faulty charging system. Next I would look at the wiring harness for the effected sensors. You could have wires that were rubbing against the frame causing a short in the circuit therefore causing the sensor(S) to be at fault. If all of the above checks out then it might be time to replace the sensors. All of the above with the exception of replacing the senders should be free, just your labor is involved. At the worst you might get a small fee to have the battery tested, not sure how things work on your side of the pond but almost any good auto parts store will load test it for free. Good luck and let us know what you find....
Thread Starter
|
6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: england
I would start with some basic trouble shooting. Judging by the codes you have pulled I would start with the battery and verify that it is good. Have it load tested. Next verify that the battery cables are good and that you have a solid connection both at the battery terminals and at the starter for the hot lead and the frame for the ground. Charging system would be next on my list. Even if the battery turns out to be bad it could have failed due to an inadequate or faulty charging system. Next I would look at the wiring harness for the effected sensors. You could have wires that were rubbing against the frame causing a short in the circuit therefore causing the sensor(S) to be at fault. If all of the above checks out then it might be time to replace the sensors. All of the above with the exception of replacing the senders should be free, just your labor is involved. At the worst you might get a small fee to have the battery tested, not sure how things work on your side of the pond but almost any good auto parts store will load test it for free. Good luck and let us know what you find....
Thanks for the quick reply!
The battery is new so I think the code 16 is historic which will go away eventually.
What bothers me is the erratic running and the way it feels so rough on overrun.
It is my first experience of a big twin so I don't really know how they should ride but I can say; when it's accelerating or pulling, it feels really nice and smooth but when you get off the gas and are coasting, it feels rough like the back wheel is about to fall off!
Needless to say, it isn't, everything on the primary and transmission side checks out ok and belt sprockets, wheel and swing arm/ springs are tight.I think it's the rough running of the motor causing it, same as when it's at tick over, there's no potato- potato, more shake rattle and roll! It doesn't cut out but it doesn't feel silky smooth as I thought a dyna should!
I will check out all of the wiring loom and make sure none of the connections are oxidized
All suggestions will be welcomed; If it ain't burnin', I'm learnin'.
Last edited by vmaxnick; Apr 17, 2011 at 07:17 AM.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: england
update
A pal of mine who runs an independant Harley shop in Devon England
(Barnaby Wyldes) Has had a look at my bike and taken it out for a spin.
He says the engine management sender is faulty as it stays on all the time, but that the motor etc has a clean bill of health.
Rough running just required a change of plugs. He says the vibration is normal Dyna!
If it's not a problem, it's a characteristic
(Barnaby Wyldes) Has had a look at my bike and taken it out for a spin.
He says the engine management sender is faulty as it stays on all the time, but that the motor etc has a clean bill of health.
Rough running just required a change of plugs. He says the vibration is normal Dyna!
If it's not a problem, it's a characteristic
Last edited by vmaxnick; Apr 17, 2011 at 07:16 AM.
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