Please help - Exhaust header torque (Thunderheader) and leak testing
My book is downstairs but pretty sure I recall it saying final torque on all four bolts is 60-80 inch pounds. (06 Dyna)
Now i don't have an inch-pound torque wrench, so I translated to "roughly 5-6 foot pounds" and did my best, erring on the side of not over-tightening. That did not seem like much torque. I can't see how far the gaskets are crushed, so I am not sure how to know if I got it sealed properly.
i read some threads about testing with a lighter. Do you just wave the flame around near the seal and see if the flame gets blown out?
I dont have a long lighter, so I used some flaming paper on the end of a stick, but I wasn't positive what I was looking for so I can't conclude it's sealed yet.
Please throw me 2 cents on help on getting the torque right, and on leak testing....
Secondary Items:
I installed the Thunderheader today. it wasn't that bad, thanks to the posts and threads by Longhair Vic and others in the forum. Saved me from removing the clutch cover. I did screw up on two items.
1. I could not get the forward stock exhaust mounting bracket off. No way to get to two of those small torx screws. I buggered one of them trying to get it from an angle, and ended up just leaving the ugly bracket on. [suggestions?]
2. I read in the threads that it makes mount easier if you remove the footpeg. Well I f-ed up and removed the entire footpeg mount, and disconnected the brake shaft. I think that was unneccesary.
I further f-ed up by not remounting the footpeg assembly until after installing the pipe. After all the work of getting the Thunderheader fully mounted, O2 sensors back in place, and torquing everything down, I went to replace the footpeg mount and realized there's no way to get the bolts back in. I had to loosen everything and even then I couldn't tighten them the way I wanted. I now need to cut a short length of 1/4" allen key and fashion a really short allen key. Re-attaching the brake pedal to the shaft with the cotter pin was also difficult behind the header.
This is also another reason why I am not sure about the exhaust flange torque, as I had to loosen and re-tighten. The threads showing on the rear header are even top and bottom, but the forward mount has one bolt pretty snug with very few threads showing, and the other went a bit further in...
Now i don't have an inch-pound torque wrench, so I translated to "roughly 5-6 foot pounds" and did my best, erring on the side of not over-tightening. That did not seem like much torque. I can't see how far the gaskets are crushed, so I am not sure how to know if I got it sealed properly.
i read some threads about testing with a lighter. Do you just wave the flame around near the seal and see if the flame gets blown out?
I dont have a long lighter, so I used some flaming paper on the end of a stick, but I wasn't positive what I was looking for so I can't conclude it's sealed yet.
Please throw me 2 cents on help on getting the torque right, and on leak testing....
Secondary Items:
I installed the Thunderheader today. it wasn't that bad, thanks to the posts and threads by Longhair Vic and others in the forum. Saved me from removing the clutch cover. I did screw up on two items.
1. I could not get the forward stock exhaust mounting bracket off. No way to get to two of those small torx screws. I buggered one of them trying to get it from an angle, and ended up just leaving the ugly bracket on. [suggestions?]
2. I read in the threads that it makes mount easier if you remove the footpeg. Well I f-ed up and removed the entire footpeg mount, and disconnected the brake shaft. I think that was unneccesary.
I further f-ed up by not remounting the footpeg assembly until after installing the pipe. After all the work of getting the Thunderheader fully mounted, O2 sensors back in place, and torquing everything down, I went to replace the footpeg mount and realized there's no way to get the bolts back in. I had to loosen everything and even then I couldn't tighten them the way I wanted. I now need to cut a short length of 1/4" allen key and fashion a really short allen key. Re-attaching the brake pedal to the shaft with the cotter pin was also difficult behind the header.
This is also another reason why I am not sure about the exhaust flange torque, as I had to loosen and re-tighten. The threads showing on the rear header are even top and bottom, but the forward mount has one bolt pretty snug with very few threads showing, and the other went a bit further in...
Those gaskets are not uniformely thick so the torque could be right on both bolts even though they are showing different amounts of thread as long as you alternated back and forth between them when you tightened them. I don't know about loosening and re-tightening them though. That pretty much constitutes re-using them which I wouldn't do.
On the foward bracket I had the same bad torx bolt problem and ended up using a small file, filed two flats to get an open end wrench on them and got them out.
For me I had replaced the front exhaust stud cause it came out with a new one and had ordered long nuts that use all the thread and just tightened down.
More threads better holding force more torque I could put on.
My exhaust only has the studs on each head and one bolt on one rear bracket holding it all so I tightened pretty good. (eyeballed)
If your exhaust loosed up wouldn't you just tighten it. Your supposed to recheck it after awhile.
For me I had replaced the front exhaust stud cause it came out with a new one and had ordered long nuts that use all the thread and just tightened down.
More threads better holding force more torque I could put on.
My exhaust only has the studs on each head and one bolt on one rear bracket holding it all so I tightened pretty good. (eyeballed)
If your exhaust loosed up wouldn't you just tighten it. Your supposed to recheck it after awhile.
Last edited by stilup; Jan 28, 2012 at 12:13 AM.
Those gaskets are not uniformely thick so the torque could be right on both bolts even though they are showing different amounts of thread as long as you alternated back and forth between them when you tightened them. I don't know about loosening and re-tightening them though. That pretty much constitutes re-using them which I wouldn't do.
A lighter is handy for testing inlet manifold seals, never heard of using one for exhaust seal though.
One way is to remove the spark plugs and dribble 1/2 a teaspoon of engine oil in each cylinder. You'll get plenty of smoke that'll show any exhaust leaks. It'll burn off in a couple if minutes.
One way is to remove the spark plugs and dribble 1/2 a teaspoon of engine oil in each cylinder. You'll get plenty of smoke that'll show any exhaust leaks. It'll burn off in a couple if minutes.
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A lighter is handy for testing inlet manifold seals, never heard of using one for exhaust seal though.
One way is to remove the spark plugs and dribble 1/2 a teaspoon of engine oil in each cylinder. You'll get plenty of smoke that'll show any exhaust leaks. It'll burn off in a couple if minutes.
One way is to remove the spark plugs and dribble 1/2 a teaspoon of engine oil in each cylinder. You'll get plenty of smoke that'll show any exhaust leaks. It'll burn off in a couple if minutes.
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