lOWERING FRONT
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,871
Likes: 4
lOWERING FRONT
Help i have put proggresive shocks on back love`m now i need to do the front i read here where someone suggested race tech, talking with local dealer he said harleys are as good and race tech is too much hassel with all the adjustments ect, i figure as long as i`m having it done might as well do it with the best anyone do this with there wideglide, mine is a 05
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 82
From: Mountain View, California
RE: lOWERING FRONT
I installed Progressive Cruise Control springs up front to match my Progressive 440s in back. The Cruise Control package lets you install at stock height, -1", or -2". I went -1" and am pleased with the results.
Z
Z
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,871
Likes: 4
RE: lOWERING FRONT
thanks for your help did you lower it one inch , i lowered mine with the prog shocks a inch and i think it will look nicer if i bring the front down one inch again thanks
Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
RE: lOWERING FRONT
The easiest way to lower the front is to simply slide the fork tube up in the triple trees. It's free, and doesn't take long to do. If you lower it too much - or not enough - it's easy to change.
As for Race Tech, your dealer doesn't have a clue. I installed them on my '97 WG, and my '06 SG. Easy to install, they just drop in, and then modify the damper tube a little. Easy work, and makes a huge improvement.
As for Race Tech, your dealer doesn't have a clue. I installed them on my '97 WG, and my '06 SG. Easy to install, they just drop in, and then modify the damper tube a little. Easy work, and makes a huge improvement.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: lOWERING FRONT
ORIGINAL: bobcowan
.................................................. .................
As for Race Tech, your dealer doesn't have a clue.
I installed them on my '97 WG, and my '06 SG.
Easy to install, they just drop in, and then modify the damper tube a little.
Easy work, and makes a huge improvement.
.................................................. .................
As for Race Tech, your dealer doesn't have a clue.
I installed them on my '97 WG, and my '06 SG.
Easy to install, they just drop in, and then modify the damper tube a little.
Easy work, and makes a huge improvement.
What parts, seals, bushings, etc, should I have on hand if I want
to disassemble the fork assembly on my 06 SuperGlide??
Considering some changes, and I would appreciate any enlightenment you can offer.
mud
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 82
From: Mountain View, California
RE: lOWERING FRONT
Can't lower the forks in the trees on a Wide Glide, at least not on mine.
I lowered my front forks 1" to match the similar lowering I did in the rear. I like it.
Z
I lowered my front forks 1" to match the similar lowering I did in the rear. I like it.
Z
Tourer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
From:
RE: lOWERING FRONT
a cheap effect way, and quite fast too.... take off the fork cap, measure the ID of the fork, take out the stock spacer. replace it with a pvc pipe 1 inch shorter, or you can cut your stock one. put back in and done.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,950
Likes: 2
From: Colorado Springs, CO
RE: lOWERING FRONT
The only part you need on hand is new seals. Cheap and easy.
You will need two "special" tools. First, in the bottom of the fork there's an allen bolt that holds the damper tube in place. The service manual says it's a 6mm. But it's not. It's a lot larger, like12mm (can't remember exactly). You won't be able to find a long enough allen socket to reach in there. Buy a standard allenwrench and matching socket, and cut the allen wrench to the proper length. Then put it inthe socket. You want to use an impact wrench on this.
Second, you'll need someting to drive the bushing and seal into place. You can buy a special tool, but it's expensive. I made one from muffler pipe I had lying around. I hear PVC tubing works good, too.
I purchased the Race Tech kit from Zanotti Motors. I used Chrome Cash and got it for free. I bought a kit for a V-Rod. The kit includes a spacer to lower the bike an inch. I didn't use it, because I wanted it lowered only 1/2-3/4" to match the rear shocks.
You cannot lower the front simply by cutting the upper spacer. All that does is decrease spring pre load. You have to put a spacer deep in the bowels of the fork.
The Race Tech kit made a huge improvement over stock. Best thing you could do for your bike. Rides like a performance machine - smooth and accurate. No nose dive on braking. No hobby-horse action when running through the gears. I just dropped the valves in as delivered from the factory.
While I had it apart, I also drilled and tapped the bottom rear of the fork for a pipe plug. Now I can change fluid without removing the forks from the triple tree.
You will need two "special" tools. First, in the bottom of the fork there's an allen bolt that holds the damper tube in place. The service manual says it's a 6mm. But it's not. It's a lot larger, like12mm (can't remember exactly). You won't be able to find a long enough allen socket to reach in there. Buy a standard allenwrench and matching socket, and cut the allen wrench to the proper length. Then put it inthe socket. You want to use an impact wrench on this.
Second, you'll need someting to drive the bushing and seal into place. You can buy a special tool, but it's expensive. I made one from muffler pipe I had lying around. I hear PVC tubing works good, too.
I purchased the Race Tech kit from Zanotti Motors. I used Chrome Cash and got it for free. I bought a kit for a V-Rod. The kit includes a spacer to lower the bike an inch. I didn't use it, because I wanted it lowered only 1/2-3/4" to match the rear shocks.
You cannot lower the front simply by cutting the upper spacer. All that does is decrease spring pre load. You have to put a spacer deep in the bowels of the fork.
The Race Tech kit made a huge improvement over stock. Best thing you could do for your bike. Rides like a performance machine - smooth and accurate. No nose dive on braking. No hobby-horse action when running through the gears. I just dropped the valves in as delivered from the factory.
While I had it apart, I also drilled and tapped the bottom rear of the fork for a pipe plug. Now I can change fluid without removing the forks from the triple tree.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 916
Likes: 3
From: Mauldin, SC
RE: lOWERING FRONT
ORIGINAL: bobcowan
The easiest way to lower the front is to simply slide the fork tube up in the triple trees. It's free, and doesn't take long to do. If you lower it too much - or not enough - it's easy to change.
The easiest way to lower the front is to simply slide the fork tube up in the triple trees. It's free, and doesn't take long to do. If you lower it too much - or not enough - it's easy to change.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 14,564
Likes: 9,225
From: the 50s & the 60s
RE: lOWERING FRONT
ORIGINAL: bobcowan
The only part you need on hand is new seals. Cheap and easy.
…………………………………………� �………………………………………….
The Race Tech kit made a huge improvement over stock.
Best thing you could do for your bike.
…………………………………………� �………………………………………….
The only part you need on hand is new seals. Cheap and easy.
…………………………………………� �………………………………………….
The Race Tech kit made a huge improvement over stock.
Best thing you could do for your bike.
…………………………………………� �………………………………………….
"service manual says it's a 6mm. But it's not. It's a lot larger, like 12mm "
Yeah, my service manual says 12mm.
"You want to use an impact wrench on this."
I think I remember a lot of spin forever unless you impact it.
"drilled and tapped the bottom rear of the fork "
Good point.
“Race Tech kit from Zanotti - - bought a kit for a V-Rod”
“Race Tech kit made a huge improvement over stock”
why the V-Rod kit?? (superior performance level??)
(from another thread) “Race Tech gold valves and springs.
That will make a huge improvement in ride quality and handeling.
Even dropping the valves under the stock springs will make a huge improvement.”
(last sentence) By this do you mean RTvalve/stockspring??
How much pressure is the spring gonna have coming apart?? Danger??
I have picked up a set of vRod sliders
(only diff from dyna, that I see, is length, about an inch shorter overall),
and I am going to attempt to verify which parts and pieces I will need
to mix and match, before I order the rotor/caliper/masterclinder/etcetc.
Exploded image below.
16-21 are common part #s, and a few others are as well.
mud
