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  #11  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:58 AM
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Yes, half is an overstatement, but it does help you get the most out of your cams. And there is more then one reason to use adjustable pushrods, being able to install them with out removing the rocker boxes is kind of a bonus.
 
  #12  
Old 03-16-2012, 09:03 AM
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Ok,

Thanks guys for all the input. I am going to tackle this gig myself.

I have decided to just do the cams and the inner bearings (thanks DTDK) and leave the rest for a possible big bore down the road when I will probably change the cams again anyway and at that point replace other components. The bike has only around 5000 miles on it so it should be fine. Plus I want to take the tank off for a front turn signal relo anyway and while I have it off I might as well pull those rock covers off and go through the top.

That video rocks and I'll be referring to it regularly. Between that, the manual and you guys I should be good to go.

Keep the info coming, thanks!

Ray
 
  #13  
Old 03-16-2012, 10:54 AM
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If you decide to go with SE cams, you dont need adjustable pushrods. You wont gain anything from the expenditure. Base circle dimensions on aftermarket cams can vary as much as .050", which makes adjustables mandatory. Otherwise, use adjustables if youre too lazy to pop the top of the motor.
 
  #14  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:36 AM
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Yeah I'm thinkin' the same, stock rods it is... Thanks
 
  #15  
Old 03-16-2012, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by SC-Longhair
I swapped my cams at 19k miles without changing the inner cam bearings. I have close to 30k miles now. Nothing has blown up yet and I'm pretty darn hard on it at times.

Ramu, if you're going to use adjustable pushrods you don't need to pull the tank or the rocker covers (but that stuff is easily removable). Cut the old pushrods out with a bolt cutter.

I reused my stock pushrods so I did have to remove the tank and rocker covers.

Just so you know, I invested ~$500-$700 to swap my cams including dyno-tune afterwards. How much did the dealer quote you to swap your cams and dyno-tune?
Well I was going to get it tuned and while I was there I asked about cams. He said the tune (with SE tuner) would be about $765. He then said if cams added it would be about $1650 so it was about $885 more for the cams (parts and labor). The tune alone was $340. Now I'm getting 20% off on parts so the tuner is only going to be $370 and the cams are only going to be $240 so I'm going to throw in a full V&H system...lol But the cams with the tune would be $1592 (including tuner, cams and labor). I'm going to do my own cams which should save me about $645...put that in your pipe and smoke it...lol
 
  #16  
Old 03-16-2012, 07:12 PM
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i too am doing cams (woods 555),push rods, PC5 and a full pipe on my 2012 switch back...i was thinking about giving it a go on my own but after thinking about needing a dyno tune anyways i said screw it let the shop do it, they have the tools and the know how already, i am an industrial mechanic/electrican so i know i can do the work, but after working on someone else's stuff all day the last thing i want to do is work on my own stuff...just lazy i guess lol..i am pumped i can not wait to get the bike back hoping to be in the 90+HP and 100TQ area!
 
  #17  
Old 03-16-2012, 10:01 PM
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I was able to find a used set of Georges Garage bearing remover&installer tools from a classified ad on a Harley forum. Also bought a set of magnetic holders for the lifters. Use assembly lube on all the new parts.
Buying the tools is a good idea; in case you get in the habit of changing cams and bearings.....
 
  #18  
Old 03-16-2012, 10:46 PM
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Yeah, I plan on buying the tools needed thats for sure...

In fact, I know I need the bearing remover/installer but what tool do I need to be able to torque down the rocker cover bolts I can't get to from above because of the frame. There is at least one of them.

I think the service manual said something about a 'dog bone' socket that I can put on my torque wrench?
 
  #19  
Old 03-16-2012, 11:38 PM
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I used adjustable pushrods. For those hard to get at bolts: rocker-arms require a 1/2" flank drive dog bone torque adapter and the covers a 7/16" flank drive dog bone torque adapter.

(OR: You don't need to buy a torque adaptor if you have a set of box end wrenches and allen sockets in the size you need. Put the allen socket on your torque wrench, then your box end wrench goes on the allen socket. Keep it perpendicular and the torque values don't change. If you can't keep it at 90*, extend it in a straight line, and you'll have to use a formula to adjust the torque values.
I ran across this procedure in the Touring forum under the 'just finished my cam swap' post #10)
 

Last edited by Austin Dave; 03-17-2012 at 12:01 AM.
  #20  
Old 03-17-2012, 01:30 PM
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OK so if I get those dog-bone torque adapters (found 'em in a Stanley for $15 and $20 on Amazon) is there a formula for adjusting torque for the extension? I'm wanting to think it can't be the same.

On another issue, is the kit I see in the in the HD FXDC Parts Catalog (17045-99C) going to give me what I need for the job? I guess what I'm saying is, does anyone have a complete parts list for this job available?
 

Last edited by ramu3527; 03-17-2012 at 01:47 PM.


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