Ok, I have an '09 FXDC 96". I have a SE A/C and V&H slip-ons.

I have been wanting to get it tuned and plan on taking it to the dealer (don't know of any indies where I live and the dealer seems pretty reputable). The dealer is also giving me 20% off on parts so I instantly thought cams and a full exhaust (I didn't have the cash for the full system back when).

I have been reading the forum and it looks like the SE204 cams will be the ones I want. I am about 240 and ride solo most of the time, city driving. I will do some cross counrty now and again too. Thoughts on the cams?

I was also wondering if there was any other things I should add with the cams like, bearings, rocker arms, adjustable pushrods, tentioners or a better oil pump or can I just do the cams by themselves and call it a day.

Also, will I have to worry about what fuel I use or just stick with the good stuff like I have been.

Basically I HOPING to take it to my dealer, have them install the cams and pipes and with my new race tuner tune it and give it back to me running strong...

 

cam bearings cost nothing, and make sure they use the torrington bearings, not the harley ones, adjustable pushrods for sure, or half your cam will be wasted, you have the 09 so you should have the good tensioners, and the good oil pump. Stick with the good fuel, you should get some new lifters while you are at it, but not harley ones they are now being made in mexico.

Have a look at andrews cams or woods cams ( i would recomend a whole new valve train if going with woods), or even kury cams before jumping straight to SE cams

For my cam swap i bought andrews 48h cams, comp cams lifters, and S&S adjustable pusrods

 

You could do the cams yourself and save a bundle on labor. I'm no mechanic and was able to swap them out myself. Pretty simple as long as you follow the service manual. it does prove fairly important for this mod.

 

Well Vic I just read (skimmed) what's involved in swapping the cams. Pretty involved.
That being said I'm not sure I want to trust the dealer (or anyone) taking that much of my motor apart or more importantly, putting it back together. I also like the idea of doing it myself and love the money I should save. Guess I'll do my pipes too.
I would say I'm mechanically inclined plenty enough for this, have the basic tools and have no problem buying the specialty tools I may need.
You willing to answer the questions I'm sure to have? (Don't worry, I wouldn't make you my only source...lol)
I guess my first question is, how hard is it to get those rocker covers off while the motor's on the chassis? Should I remove the fuel tank?
Thanks...

 

Wow, The HD stock parts are not going to work with the cams? I was hoping I could just swap out the cams and be done with it.
I guess if I was to change the other parts I would be wondering, if my bearings only have under 5000 miles on them do I really need to change them? If I change to the adjustable pushrod how will I know how to adjust them, do they come with instructions? What do you mean when you say half my cams will be wasted without new pushrods? as fare as the lifters, do they just drop out and the new ones get slid back in?
Sorry for all the questions but I'm now thinking on doing the work myself...
Thanks...

 

http://youtu.be/n5KvamRqCis This should give you an idea of what's involved

 

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Yeah, thanks man. Watching it as we speak. Looks totally doable...

 

your inner cam bearings should be changed any time you change cams, it is just a preventitive thing, kind of like when you do your brakes on a car you do both sides not just one corner.

the adjustable pushrods will allow you to partialy compress your hydraulic lifters, so they are kind of like a happy medium between solid lifters ( very noisey, but get you full stroke on your cam) and hydraulic lifters ( quiet, but are spungy and do not give 100% of what the cam can offer)

your outer cam bearings should be fine, and reguardless of what anyone says in my opinion you should change out your lifters when you change your cam, you have 2 metal pieces interacting and they will mate to some level. Why put your new cams in with parts that are mated to some other profile.

 

I swapped my cams at 19k miles without changing the inner cam bearings. I have close to 30k miles now. Nothing has blown up yet and I'm pretty darn hard on it at times.

Ramu, if you're going to use adjustable pushrods you don't need to pull the tank or the rocker covers (but that stuff is easily removable). Cut the old pushrods out with a bolt cutter.

I reused my stock pushrods so I did have to remove the tank and rocker covers.

Just so you know, I invested ~$500-$700 to swap my cams including dyno-tune afterwards. How much did the dealer quote you to swap your cams and dyno-tune?

 

I'm not really sure the theory on adjustable push rods is correct. The real reason they are used is so you can cut the factory ones out and install the new ones without having to take the rocker boxes off. That statement about only using half of your cam is bs. I personally prefer using the solid ones since removing the rocker boxes is not really that hard but if you are laying for the labor it will be cheaper to go the adjustable route.