I live in Canada, so giving you my phone number would be long distance but appreciate the offer, what exactly did you do for spacers without machining?
Real curious.

Rob

 

When spoked wheels are laced, there is a specification called "The Offset" That is how far left or right of center the rim is in relationship to the hub. The offset may be 1/2" for the bike it came from. You can change the offset yourself (1/2" is actually an easy fix).

On the side of the rim that is too close to the fork slider, put a piece of white tape on each spoke laced to that side of the hub. Put a piece of black tape on each spoke laced to the other side of the hub.

Loosen the spoke nipple one half turn on every "white" spoke, then tighten every black spoke one half turn. Repeat until the rim is centered between the forks. 1/2" change will probably be about three trips around the spokes.

 

THX AFMM3 , great tip,i only need to offset rim 1/4 to make even on both sides, i have never laced or trued a wheel in my life, will doing this keep my wheel true, one thing i did notice is the heritage fork lower brake side, the caliper mount is closer to the wheel than my wide glide, that is most likely where the mounting differences are coming from.

Cheers

 

If all spoke turns are the same, the true should stay (assuming it was true in the first place). If everything bolted up as you say but the rim was offset by 1/2 inch, this should take care of you.

Harbor Freight has a truing stand for $39 and Dial Indicator for maybe $49. I used this when I built my wheels. I spent the time to learn how to do this and my wheels are now 3 times more true than the factory specifications are. Smooth as glass.

 

This is what I'm going to do to my wide glide. If you are still part of this site, did it work okay!

 

Yes I'm still here, and see my sig pic and you will notice I am running a heritage wheel on my bike, had to get new spacers and a 1/4 inch rotor spacer to line up with my caliper and stock lower legs.