Holy ****!! Buy the service manual and do it right. DO NOT cut the wires and DO NOT listen to clowns that tell you to cut wires!!!

 

The instructions straight from Harley tell you to cut the wires. In fact, they even include heat shrink connectors for you to use.

 

Replaced my sissy bar a little while ago on my '11 Wide Glide, here is my lessons learned.

1. Its definitely a lot easier if you jack the bike up and remove the lowers on the shocks. Those that say you dont must have PFM hands! Its your first time, go the easy route and drop wheel!

2. No need to cut signal wires, just detach from the clips under the seat and feed back through the rear fender.

3. After you get everything off and are ready to pull that sissy bar off the fender, PROTECT THAT FENDER. Could not emphasize this more! I think the painters tape is a good idea. I tried cardboard, but I must have had dust/debree on the cardboard cause I still got some scratching on my fender.

 

Not really sure what you are talking about. Cutting wires is a last resort.

DYNA MODELS
2010 HARLEY DAVIDSON SERVICE MANUAL

REAR LAMP HOUSING REPLACEMENT (pg. 7-34)
5.Remove turn signal lamp wires from multilock connector.
See A.1 AMP MULTILOCK CONNECTORS for connector information.

REAR FENDER
FXWG MODELS (pg 2-80)
Removal
2. To ease installation remove rear shock absorber lower bolts.
See 2.21 REAR SHOCK ABSORBERS.

To ease installation....Not necessary.

 

Pretty much covers the wiring cutting.
If you cut and splice it leaves you with bulges in the wire to contend with and an additional point of failure.
There are very few times you really NEED to cut and splice, like adding length.

 

The factory turn signal "relocation" kit. The instructions are to cut the wires and splice later with the included heat shrink connectors.

 

I don't own a WG but it sounds like u may have to extend the wires when doing the relocate. Now from electronics experience you can probably depin the connectors for the signals. Normally those have 2 prongs that hold them into the connector body and you can use a paper clip to remove the pins. My .02

 

No need for a jack, no need to cut any wires. And once you get the sissybar off you can mod it so that it's easy to pop on and off. Just cut the rear holes like this:


That way you never need to worry about the wires again. Still holds on strong.

 

I've worked in the electrical trade for more than half my life. There is nothing wrong with splicing conductors if donE properly. Actually, for an inexperienced person, it's safer than diisassembling the connector or the light fixture. Those two devices are a lot easier to screw up if you have never done it before. See instruction sheet "rev. 2010-06-02" Directional Relocation Kit, paragraph #3, special note.

 

got the thing off, didnt know there was still plastic things holding it on after all bolts out, LOL. thanx for the insight, took bout 31/2hrs with no cutting.