You would have to load WinPV on your computer and download both the tunes from your PV to your PC. Then load each tune into WinPV and do a compare between tunes. Look at the VE tables and compare the values from the previous tune to the newest tune created by either Autotune or LogTuner. Its much easier to evaluate your tunes when loaded onto your PC obviously because the screen is much bigger and you can use all the compare features in WinPV.

I personally have not used the Autotune feature. What I have always done was the "manual" procedure prior to Autotune, which was LogTuner.

What I do is load the latest tune into LogTuner. Then LogTuner asks for all your datalogs that you did while running the latest tune. Then LogTuner calculates all changes that need to be made and creates a Value file. In LogTuner you can see all the changes it is going to make and you can see in here the percentage of change for every value of every table in your tune. You then load up your latest tune in WinPV and then load the LogTuner value file and it will overwrite all the changes values in your entire map. Then save this new tune as a different filename and upload this new tune to the PV and flash it on your bike. And then start the datalog process over again and keep doing it until the VE tables do not change more than 5% between runs. (Note: You will never get the VE's to not change between runs. They will always be some amount of change between every run. The idea is to get the VE values to the point where they do not change more than 5% between runs. This means the ECU is not having to swing wildly about trying to maintain whatever A/F values you have set in the A/F tables.)

The autotune feature on the PV just does all this for you now without having to use WinPV or your PC.

 

So I did 5 autotune runs today, each one based off the previous. Compared them all on WinPV. It was interesting to see the changes from my base and from each successive run. I kept wondering how I should be riding it during the runs...I assume you should try to hit as much of the entire VE table as possible, which means covering everything from light starts to full throttle up to redline. I wasn't able to do this in every session because of the different places I was riding but I more than covered the areas of the table that I normally ride in, so hopefully I'm good to go. It would really be nice if the instructions from Dynojet went into more detail about this kind of stuff.

Another thing I noticed, and maybe it's because the adaptive tables are ignored during autotuning, but I was getting a lot of decel popping the entire time...in all of the runs....a lot more than the occasional popping I was getting before. Not sure what thats all about but I hope it goes away now that it is supposedly better tuned than before.

 

You are getting popping on decel because during autotune the values in the 20kpa column of A/F table are set to 14.6.

Once you are all satisfied with your tune, you can then mess with the 20kpa column to tune out all the decel popping. In this column, you can richen (lower values) in the rpm ranges that you get popping. Just keep lowering until all the popping is gone. Just lower the values in .25 decrements.

For example on mine, my 20kpa column goes from 13.5 at 1000 rpms and progressively goes lower down to 12.0 at 3000 rpms and above.

Remember, only do the 20kpa column this way. Not the other columns.

 

...and you won't need a dyno if you work Jamie's map with the autotune. I mean autotune with the autotune kit which comes with wideband O2 sensors of course.

 

In Autotune the whole table is set to 14.6 AFR, you will get decel pop every time you Autotune - dont worry about it unless you get it when you are not Autotuning.

Because the AfR tables are at 14.6 in Autotune, I would not redline the bike at all - way too lean. I stay below 5000 RPM. If you are really worried about tuning the whole map to perfection I would opt for the Autotune Pro version with the Wide Band O2 sensors.

 

Yeah, I figured it had to do with the autotune settings. Good to know how to get rid of the popping if it keeps up. The PV really is a bad *** tool to have.

Thanks.

 

With just over 1000 miles on her, I didn't get close to redline anyway, though I did do a few WOT accelerations on the highway. Like I said, I think I covered the important parts of the table.

 

Thanks very much! Got it

 

I know right? I flash the ecm with Jamie's map, run like a top! I won't dyno till I get major head work and 107 big bore kit. Since it runs so well, I haven't decided yet.

 

So what's this deal fuel moto is offering for T-max? Not happy with mine after 95 kit and cams upgrade . Thinking about selling my Tmax for a power v ?