Ok, so it dawned on me last night that I might know what your issue is. So, this morning I looked up the 50's style tail light sold by Speedwaymotors.com. Here is what I think your issue is. You have two wires coming off your light, I am going to guess and say one is red and one is white. If this is the case and it follows the same order as the one linked, then your red wire would be running light wire (orange or blue wire from the bike) and the white wire would be your stop or turn or stop/turn depending on how the Badlands module send the signal and the ground would be off the housing. I had this kinda issue when wiring up my Model A tail lamp for my plate a few years ago and remembered that last night.

If I am right about your lights, this might help get your wiring straight while still using the Badlands module.

 

Blue, that was how I wired it up initially. That made sense in my head too. Problem with that is this...
The Run wire carries full power at all times. The R/B/T wire carries half power until the brake is activated (full pwr) or the blinker is activated (half/full/half/full). So if I wire it like shown in the diagram one wire would go to one filament at full power and the other filament would be at half power. Now when the brakes/blinkers are applied the second filament would go to full power. Both filaments were already on, the second just brightened slightly. This is not enough to be noticeable. That's what started this whole deal and why I called the Badlands tech initially. Does that all make sense?

The way he had me wire it with the violet or brown connected to both filaments works. It's just this damn bleed over on the blinker portion that I cant figure out. So think about this, I'm letting the module control all three (R/B/T) on one wire. All three work but some how it bleed left to right or right to left when blinking. Now if there is only one wire per side carrying power and the other is simply a ground, if there is bleed-over it has to be internal to the module. Am I looking at that wrong?

 

Is it possible to install the bulb upside down or inputs are backwards, i.e. the High intensity nipple makes contact with the low intensity contact in the socket and oppisite with the low to high? Maybe your low instensity contact is making contact with the high output contact running the low intesity at max power when the brake or turn is activated and the high intensity is recieving very little power acting as a brighter running light. (Low instensity is not bright enough when activated (full bright) as a brake or turn and the high intensity is to bright to be a running light (half its potental). Hope that makes since. Swapping the inputs of the diagram I made (Red and White inputs) would also make this test possible, worse case is that you would blow a bulb. Pull the lens cover and see which eliment lights up during activation.

Either way you look at it, the light itself is designed to have the housing grounded and not one of the wires (from what I have found). One wire controls one filment and the other wire controls the other filment, so running the ground wire to the light wire could be what is causing the bleed over because it us grounding the lights out thru the filment. Check you front turn sigs and see if they have any kinda minimal flickering when the turns are activated, I am not sure if they share the same ground network or not.

 

I guess my drawing was a little misleading... Left side: the violet wire runs back and is connected to both the red and white coming off the bulb. the other wire is a ground to the housing. So it runs like a 1156, two wires, power and ground. The filaments are both lit at half power until the brake/blinker is activated. Then both filaments come on full power. I did think that maybe the ground was somehow still causing bleeding but I disconnected each side one at a time and it still bleeds over even without the opposite side connected.

 

What happens if you only connect the purple/brown wire to the white or red wire, not both?

 

Only one filament lights up, half or full depending. Still bleeds over.

 

Well, I am at a lose to figuring out your bleed over, I think it's all in the module. Have you tested the output voltage on the wires, both before and after the module. I believe (not 100%) but the blue should only run at 6v, maybe someone can confirm that. Those 6v should go to the smaller element (dimmer, always on) and the 12v from the brake or turn would goto the larger element (normally off, only on when brake or turn is active and way bright). Check the voltage and maybe watch the bulb to see how the elements lights up when wired purple to white and blue to red.

 

Also, verify you have nice clean solid connection at all your point, bad connection could cause the bleed maybe if it's shorting out across to another connector.

 

Blue, I just looked at your profile pic...here I was thinking I was original!

 

So I sent my wiring diagram to the badlands tech and this is the response:

I would say to first try and isolate the power to the module (orange wire) and hook it directly to the battery 12v (+) with a 7.5amp fuse. Also make sure all of your grounds(-) are good