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Race Gold Valves

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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 09:10 AM
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Default Race Gold Valves

I rebuilt my forks before I left for Sturgis a few weeks ago and was in sort of a time crunch to get my bike rideable along with my fiancés bike so I ordered new Race Tech springs and gold valves for my 02 Low Rider and got everything in and filled up with 10 weight Bel Ray fork oil, mistake number one, clearly not heavy enough. I'm probably going to get 20 weight of some kind I think that's will help out the little bit of fork dive I've still got. Although its a million times better to the blown out seal and about a cups worth of broke down fork oil that came out of the left side slider. I read and read the Race Tech directions and even had a Hot Bike where they rebuilt a set of 39mm forks with the gold valves and they all said 2-3 turns is a pretty base adjustment for the valves. My question is where do you start turning? Do you start from where they are set out of the box or turn them all the way in and back them out the 2-3 turns or whatever you want?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 11:08 AM
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I just realized I screwed the title up it should be Race Tech Gold Valves.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 12:43 PM
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ryder call race tech they will help you... when i did mine with race tech emulators, running dual top out springs, progressive springs, 5 turns on the emulators, 130mm 15w fork oil.

here are some pics of the install







 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by JRK5892
ryder call race tech they will help you... when i did mine with race tech emulators, running dual top out springs, progressive springs, 5 turns on the emulators, 130mm 15w fork oil.

here are some pics of the install







I got everything installed I just think I've got the valves set wrong, did you just drop yours in or did you actually set them up at all?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 01:49 PM
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i set them up, did 5 clicks on mine... some of them you have to drill out the valve itself as well depending on your setup? you did drill your damper right?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 01:55 PM
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Yeah drilled out the damper so I've got 6 total holes. I think what is throwing me off is the actual adjust of the valve itself. Did you turn yours from how you got it right out of the box or did you turn the allen screw all the way in and then back off 6 turns?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 02:11 PM
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i set it back to zero and then did my turns... if i recall it was barely touching the spring was zero
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JRK5892
i set it back to zero and then did my turns... if i recall it was barely touching the spring was zero
Ok that makes more sense. I went off what they were already set at and I think it may be too much. I'm getting new oil so when I get that I'm gonna pull my valves out and back them all the way off and redo them. Thanks fpor the quick input.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 07:17 PM
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I adjusted my valves how JRK suggest and to the race tech initial settings. I'm using bel ray 7.5wt and I have no excessive brake dive. I also set my damper rods up per Howard from motorcyle metal. His way is to weld up the small hole at the top of the rod and to not add any holes at the botoom. I can't explain why it would or would not work better then the race tech instructions but my front end is pretty bad *** now. Hopefully Howard can interject some knowledge if any one is interested in this.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 02:29 PM
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huh wish i would have heard that that would have been 10x's easier ahhaha
 
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