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I thought I knew how to use a volt meter

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  #11  
Old 07-05-2018, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Goose_NC
I'd agree, but 2 years ago I replaced the regulator and all was well. Same readings then as now. Will know when new regulator arrives.

Bought a better regulator this time.
On my 01 I had issues. I pulled the connector from the stator to the regulator off and had zero VAC, if I remember correctly the service manual says it should be about 21VAC at idle, and increase with RPM. The stator makes AC voltage and the regulator converts it to DC voltage to charge the battery. If your getting 0 VAC off the stator replace the stator.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Lunchboxx
On my 01 I had issues. I pulled the connector from the stator to the regulator off and had zero VAC, if I remember correctly the service manual says it should be about 21VAC at idle, and increase with RPM. The stator makes AC voltage and the regulator converts it to DC voltage to charge the battery. If your getting 0 VAC off the stator replace the stator.
I am getting 10vac at idle, and it goes up 32vac displayed at 3600 RPM. I was expecting the 400vac the sticky mentioned.
 
  #13  
Old 07-05-2018, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
That`s because the alternator has a built in circuit that changes A/C volts to D/C volts as well as dropping the voltage to a usable level to charge your battery. You can`t read the generated A/C voltage, only the output D/C voltage.
Bad info...
 
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Old 07-06-2018, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Goose_NC
I am getting 10vac at idle, and it goes up 32vac displayed at 3600 RPM. I was expecting the 400vac the sticky mentioned.
I am guessing that is a typo. I would expect closer to 40 volts AC than 400. I have been wrong before though.
 
  #15  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:19 AM
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Time like this, I wish I kept better notes. Ordered new stator. Meters were correct.
 
  #16  
Old 08-05-2018, 05:54 PM
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And yes, it was the stator.
 
  #17  
Old 08-05-2018, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
That`s because the alternator has a built in circuit that changes A/C volts to D/C volts as well as dropping the voltage to a usable level to charge your battery. You can`t read the generated A/C voltage, only the output D/C voltage. You can read an A/C voltage drop to ground from the positive battery terminal, which will read very low (something like .3 volts) to indicate if your alternator is functioning properly. But this has nothing to do directly with the final D/C voltage output. In other words, there is nothing wrong with your meter.
I have a problem ! I am showing : 14.1v at idle, 14.15 at 2000rpm..

for the the heck of it I changed my meter to AC and put the leads on my battery terminals. It showed 30.1. So I am pulling AC to my Battery? Possible regulator failure ??
 
  #18  
Old 08-11-2018, 02:40 PM
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Installed Cycle Electric stator and regulator. Now showing 13.8 vdc at idle and 14.6 vdc at 3000 RPM. The stock system at best only produce 13.8 vdc at 3000 RPM

Done now. All is well electrically. .
 
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  #19  
Old 08-11-2018, 07:52 PM
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yep, went from generator to alternator. the early ones were dual wound units with a special regulator. there was a main output winding and a field forcing winding. this worked similar to the old generator which had main output from arm winding but field forced by the shoe and coil arrangement. the newer ones are single phase series wound bobbins. the three phase would be the same but with three series wound coils(alternating). since the form is insulated from ground, all measurements will be between leads, any measurement to form shows shorted coil form.
you can actually re-wind them yourself if you have a hankering to do so, very easy and you can build a better mouse trap since the HD unit is engineered to do the job with less cost and is borderline.
 

Last edited by bustert; 08-11-2018 at 07:53 PM.
  #20  
Old 08-13-2018, 03:24 AM
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It's been 40 years since I've rewound motors or coils.
 
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