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I thought I knew how to use a volt meter

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Old 07-04-2018, 09:54 AM
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Default I thought I knew how to use a volt meter

My 2002 FLHTCU is not charging at the moment. I followed the charging system diagnostics, and have ordered an new regulator.

I have several meters, all are 15+ years old. All different brands. None will show the ac voltage from the alternator. Testing a wall socket show 120vac on all three voltmeters.

What the heck and I doing incorrectly? I connect the volt meter to the alternator, both pin, and it shows 9-24 volts. 24 volts at about 3600 RPM. I thought it should show 24vac per 1000 RPM. I am not seeing the expected 80-100vac.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 04:45 AM
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Seems like the voltmeters are telling you that the stator is kaput...
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 10:40 AM
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I'd agree, but 2 years ago I replaced the regulator and all was well. Same readings then as now. Will know when new regulator arrives.

Bought a better regulator this time.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Goose_NC
My 2002 FLHTCU is not charging at the moment. I followed the charging system diagnostics, and have ordered an new regulator.

I have several meters, all are 15+ years old. All different brands. None will show the ac voltage from the alternator. Testing a wall socket show 120vac on all three voltmeters.

What the heck and I doing incorrectly? I connect the volt meter to the alternator, both pin, and it shows 9-24 volts. 24 volts at about 3600 RPM. I thought it should show 24vac per 1000 RPM. I am not seeing the expected 80-100vac.
That`s because the alternator has a built in circuit that changes A/C volts to D/C volts as well as dropping the voltage to a usable level to charge your battery. You can`t read the generated A/C voltage, only the output D/C voltage. You can read an A/C voltage drop to ground from the positive battery terminal, which will read very low (something like .3 volts) to indicate if your alternator is functioning properly. But this has nothing to do directly with the final D/C voltage output. In other words, there is nothing wrong with your meter.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:03 PM
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He’s checking the alternator direct output before the regulator. His stator is kaput as stated above.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by hvacgaspiping
That`s because the alternator has a built in circuit that changes A/C volts to D/C volts as well as dropping the voltage to a usable level to charge your battery. You can`t read the generated A/C voltage, only the output D/C voltage. You can read an A/C voltage drop to ground from the positive battery terminal, which will read very low (something like .3 volts) to indicate if your alternator is functioning properly. But this has nothing to do directly with the final D/C voltage output. In other words, there is nothing wrong with your meter.
I’m not familiar with the earlier vintages. Did they actually have an integrated alternator with built in rectifier and regulator?, As compared to later vintages that have a 3 phase stator & rotor, that emits AC to the external regulator that then converts it to DC and regulates the DC voltage.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:23 PM
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If you're checking the voltage from the alternator to ground it won't work. You have to check from phase to phase. The windings are a delta configuration and don't have a ground reference.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 01:26 PM
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Check each of the 3 wires from the stator separately between the wire and ground. Each of the three wires should have an AC voltage dependent upon RPM between about 10 and 30 volts AC. I don't recall exactly. Out of the regulator should be a pretty steady approximately 14 volts DC. These are with the engine running.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 02:59 PM
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I have a stock 2002 alternator. I connected both meter leads to the two wire plug from the alternator. 2002 didnt use a three phase alternator.
 
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Old 07-05-2018, 03:00 PM
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I also performed the ground/short checks, and all those were as specified.
 


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