Electrical
Hello everyone hope someone can help. This is going to be a little long so please be patient.
i have a 2010 Softail Classic I bought two years ago from a private party with some aftermarket accessories it has a phone charger, speakers with phone jack and lights under the tank. Before purchase bike was checked out at dealership and was good to go a few months later this problem started that ended last night when the bike died and had to be towed. I will explain.
like I mentioned two months after I bought the bike the speedometer would stop working while I was riding, bike would still work no problem and never died. Shut off bike turn back on and speedometer work again this was constant. Took the bike in a few months later for the 10,000 check up and explained the situation to the dealer mechanic. Dealer did the 10,000 mile check up and said there were no other problems with the bike. But suggested a new battery which I agreed to. When I got near my house the speedometer stopped working again.
Bike is put away for winter with trickle charger on winter is over take bike out some problem. Now as I’m riding this year with the speedometer problem a new problem arises as I’m driving the check engine nd battery light come on. I tell the problem to a friend who knows a Harley master mechanic near my house. I explain the situation he goes through the whole bike checks the codes, the cables, the voltage regulator and stator and says everything checks out but the only problem is while testing he gets a sudden surge and drop in voltage periodically. He says it could be the regulator but he doesn’t like to change parts unless he’s 100% sure of the problem.
Last night I’m riding the check engine and battery light come on five minutes later bike dies and won’t start. Bike gets towed when I get home I put it on a charger this morning battery is fully charged I take it for a ride four blocks later check engine and battery light come on I turn bike around and go home. Put bike on charger and it read 60% charged. I don’t know if this makes a difference but the bike has two tenders attached to the battery. Thanks for bearing with me please help.
i have a 2010 Softail Classic I bought two years ago from a private party with some aftermarket accessories it has a phone charger, speakers with phone jack and lights under the tank. Before purchase bike was checked out at dealership and was good to go a few months later this problem started that ended last night when the bike died and had to be towed. I will explain.
like I mentioned two months after I bought the bike the speedometer would stop working while I was riding, bike would still work no problem and never died. Shut off bike turn back on and speedometer work again this was constant. Took the bike in a few months later for the 10,000 check up and explained the situation to the dealer mechanic. Dealer did the 10,000 mile check up and said there were no other problems with the bike. But suggested a new battery which I agreed to. When I got near my house the speedometer stopped working again.
Bike is put away for winter with trickle charger on winter is over take bike out some problem. Now as I’m riding this year with the speedometer problem a new problem arises as I’m driving the check engine nd battery light come on. I tell the problem to a friend who knows a Harley master mechanic near my house. I explain the situation he goes through the whole bike checks the codes, the cables, the voltage regulator and stator and says everything checks out but the only problem is while testing he gets a sudden surge and drop in voltage periodically. He says it could be the regulator but he doesn’t like to change parts unless he’s 100% sure of the problem.
Last night I’m riding the check engine and battery light come on five minutes later bike dies and won’t start. Bike gets towed when I get home I put it on a charger this morning battery is fully charged I take it for a ride four blocks later check engine and battery light come on I turn bike around and go home. Put bike on charger and it read 60% charged. I don’t know if this makes a difference but the bike has two tenders attached to the battery. Thanks for bearing with me please help.
I wouldn't leave a trickle charger on anything all winter, that's what tenders are for. I'm confused as to why you have two tenders.
Since the engine check light came on you should pull the codes.
Before buying new parts I would get the battery 100% charged and get it load tested. In many cases the battery's health is the source, and you should at least get it tested to eliminate it as a possibility.
Since the engine check light came on you should pull the codes.
Before buying new parts I would get the battery 100% charged and get it load tested. In many cases the battery's health is the source, and you should at least get it tested to eliminate it as a possibility.
The tender doesn’t stay on the bike the pigtail does. You have 2 because 1is for the tender the other is for heated gear.
Sounds like the voltage regulator is going. Should have changed it before
Sounds like the voltage regulator is going. Should have changed it before
Thanks Ranger73 but like I mentioned the reason I never had the voltage regulator changed is that two different Harley mechanics one from the dealer and a master mechanic tested all the systems and couldn’t find a problem.
Here's the thing, if a VR is going then it may be a bit and miss fail until the thing goes completely. Heat definitely plays an issue with these things as well because connections within the part can be disconnected with head and reconnect as it cools. So I second the notion that the VR is likely to be the culprit.
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You guys are probably right but my only question is since the first incident with the speedometer intermittently working until now when the bike broke down it’s been two riding seasons would the regulator take that long to fail. Thanks.
I wouldn't leave a trickle charger on anything all winter, that's what tenders are for. I'm confused as to why you have two tenders.
Since the engine check light came on you should pull the codes.
Before buying new parts I would get the battery 100% charged and get it load tested. In many cases the battery's health is the source, and you should at least get it tested to eliminate it as a possibility.
Since the engine check light came on you should pull the codes.
Before buying new parts I would get the battery 100% charged and get it load tested. In many cases the battery's health is the source, and you should at least get it tested to eliminate it as a possibility.
Last edited by cficole; Aug 21, 2018 at 01:08 PM.









