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Stator / Rotor question

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  #1  
Old 06-05-2019, 02:29 PM
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Default Stator / Rotor question

At times I prefer to just throw new parts at my bike.... Just replaced the Regulator to find I'm still having the Engine and Battery light come on. I'm going to see if I can check things with a meter tonight. Anyway, Do you have to replace the Rotor along with the Stator? Would a person need or "should" upgrade to a 50 amp?

2012 Ultra Classic 57K miles.

Thanks guys.
 
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:48 PM
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I only replace parts that are verified through testing to be bad. That said, I won't install anything but a Cycle Electric stator or regulator/rectifier because I HATE doing things twice.
 
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Old 06-05-2019, 09:12 PM
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even though stock is marginal, they do last and although CE sells some good stuff, they also are hype riddled.
testing makes sense. when my stator failed due to a bad connection at the winding to pigtail, that is what i replaced since there wasn't enough winding lead to remake the connection. i still have the original VR from 2001. as far as the rotor, if the magnets are secure, no need to replace.
start with a good fsm or electrical manual. there is plenty of online help.
 
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:46 AM
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You only should have to replace what is bad...now having said that, it is also possible that the failure of one of the major components in your electrical/charging system damaged or compromised other components that may fail later giving you the same symptoms. For example, is very common to have a voltage regulator failure in conjunction with a bad battery that is pulling too many amps to charge or a battery failure from the voltage regulator output too high or too much AC getting out. I have also had problems with intermittent voltage regulators...hard to verify both times, just shotgunned them and got lucky.

A quick simple check is monitoring the battery voltage during cranking to see if it is dropping below 10 vdc; monitoring the charging voltage after starting to see if it is at or above 14 vdc, and checking the output of the stator to see if the output is ~16-26 volts AC per 1000 rpm depending on the amp rating...
 
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Old 06-06-2019, 09:59 AM
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Well, as you say you prefer to just throw new parts at the bike, why start checking things now? You've installed a new regulator and that wasn't it huh? Throw a new stator at it and just because, a new rotor also. Since you'll be in there, just as well get a new compensator, and chain tensioner, and maybe a new clutch wouldn't hurt? Probably a new battery too.

This is fun with someone else's money.
 
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Old 06-06-2019, 10:10 AM
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Thanks Greg, you are awesome.
 
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Old 06-09-2019, 03:32 PM
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I am not afraid to replace parts based on age or something bad going on. I had my primary off last year, so I replaced stator. Just cause I didn't want to take time to do it again, and it had 58k. I also decided since I had to loosen up volt reg, I would do that too. When I got it off the bike saw the bottom was cracked. Maybe cosmetic, but glad I replaced it.

I had an intermittent stall on carbed bike. replaced CPK, than map. Coil tested good. But stalling stopped when replaced. So dont get hung up on it has to test bad, Had 45k, so I didn't mind wasting $45 per sensor.
 

Last edited by Zerk; 06-09-2019 at 03:34 PM.
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  #8  
Old 06-08-2020, 08:49 PM
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skinman13, I hope you are still monitoring the forums. I have 2009 Low Rider that periodically throws the B1006 code and B1007, currently only B1006. It has also thrown B1121, B1122 a few times in the past. (It has thrown several other codes but they seem to have been remedied.)

There have been several issues diagnosed and repaired, some never traced and parts/money thrown at the problems. It's a long LONG story but currently the recurring aggravating issue is the left turn signal turning itself on and not wanting to cancel manually unless I hit right signal. Left signal also sometimes won't activate when I want it to. This turn signal problem has happened before and was never actually diagnosed or fixed, it just stopped doing it and the one possibly related issue I fixed was bad ground at the stud on the transmission from the cable that merges with the main battery ground at the ground stud. It appeared the wire was never soldered or crimped into the terminal with the battery ground cable and wiggled itself loose after 10 years and for a long expensive while before I located it, it would sometimes stay connected and sometimes not.

That cost me 5 trips to shops, 2 of those to Harley, and none of them found it but I did a couple days after the 5th time getting the bike back and breaking down and having to have it towed. Now this recurring left turn signal ghost is getting me again. All the sensors on the bike are new as is Harley voltage regulator and Harley ignition coil and Harley starter (this was verified bad) and new battery (also verified bad). Battery and starter went bad at seemingly same time right in the middle of the second round of really low fuel pressure (I guess unrelated to electrical issues) so just 2 days ago I put in new tank guts, new starter, and new battery and all the other new parts were in the last month or 5 weeks.

Anyway, this left turn signal ghost seems to happen after I ve ridden a lot of hours for 2 or 3 days when it's kinda hot out, over 85 degrees. I road about 4 hours Saturday after fixing the fuel pressure problem and installing battery and starter, about 9 hours Sunday and about 3 hours today. Today after running around 55-70 mph for 1-1/2 hours and got into a town and had to slow down and do the stopping and starting usual to driving in towns, that is when the left signal ghost returned. I don't know what to do next. I'm starting to wonder if it could be a heat related issue with the stator or defective new Harley regulator?

I have appointment with Harley Wednesday to check the ECM and regulator and hopefully do full diagnostic check but I was wondering do you know if their machine and that box I've heard talked about hooking up to the electrical harnesses, can their testing equipment easily check for and verify electricaal sensors problems and regulator and stator and all else or are they going to take forever and charge me a fortune? Thanks for any helpful info if you get this before I take my bike in Wednesday and have a chance to respond.
 

Last edited by TerryMcQ; 06-08-2020 at 10:06 PM. Reason: more info
  #9  
Old 06-08-2020, 09:49 PM
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Terry, please break up your posts so they are not so hard to read.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; 06-08-2020 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 06-08-2020, 10:04 PM
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Tired, that sounds like a plan!
 


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