My customer originally brought his 2001 FLHTCUi (Magnetti Marelli) with the system not charging with only 9600 miles on the odometer. Quick check showed a "fried" (grounded) stator before teardown. Upon disassembly, we found the stator was melted, the hub nut wasn't tight and the rotor showed minor signs of contact on several magnets. Further inspection showed light contact with the stator. We checked for crankshaft run-out and found .001" with .002" endplay. We replaced the rotor & stator - checked for smooth rollover and no further contact. Reinstalled the primary drive, refilled the primary tested charging system output at the battery - 12.2v - replaced the voltage regulator and circuit breaker. Tested the charging system output - 14.2v then the voltage dropped and steadied out at 13.4v after the engine warmed up and ran for 10 minutes.

Three (3) months and 102 miles later, customer called to say that his bike quit charging while he was on a ride. We checked out his bike and found the stator had melted down again. We looked for any contact points between the rotor and stator and found none. Checked crankshaft runout and endplay again - same as previous measurements. We replaced the stator and checked output - none. We replaced the voltage regulator. Voltage check was nearly identical to the previous 14.2v at startup, settled to 13.2v while running. I asked the customer to keep an eye on the dash-mounted volt gauge while riding. He's pretty good about paying attention to his bike and to his mechanics. He loaded the bike on his enclosed trailer and down the road he went.

Forward on month and 110 miles later he called to advise he was again on a ride and noticed that the volt gauge read over 14.0v constantly. When he shut down to get something to drink the bike wouldn't restart. Back to us again. We checked the charging system output at the battery and had battery voltage only and dropping while running. After a full charge, we load tested the battery - Good, strong with no drop into the Yellow zone. We checked the stator - no shorts to ground and a steady AC output of 40v at 2500 RPM. We replaced the voltage regulator, tested the charging system output at initial 14.2v and 13.4v warm running. Again, good-to-go. Trailered the bike home.

Got a call from him early Monday that he was on another ride last week and his bike wouldn't start after a rest stop. He noticed the voltage had been near 14.0v while riding, but when he turned on his ignition switch, the volt gauge read only around 10.0v. He had gotten the bike home and put it up on a trickle charger. He mentioned that the charger hit a max of 10.2v, but the bike started. He trailered to our shop. We charged and tested the battery - again passed the load test. Started the bike and checked the charging system output with a volt meter - battery voltage 12.4v and dropping as we revved the engine up to 2000 RPM. His volt gauge showed a little over 10.0v, however. Check stator and found it had again shorted out. Only 120 mile since the last repairs.

The original replacement parts were from Drag, the subsequent replacement parts we from V-Twin and Mid-USA.

Anyone ever run into this before? If so, we're open to any and all suggestions. Thanks

 

When my 2002 needed a new charging system I went with Cycle Electric. I had used them for my 1989 also. While they may have different packaging, the companies mentioned may be selling the same items.

This time of the year I wonder if the rider was using heated riding gear.

 

Go with cycle electric for the charging system.
I'd seriously look into his battery charger. It may be damaging the battery, causing the systems damage. Rule nothing out.
But spend the dough and go Cycle electric.

 

13.4v is not acceptable if you are measuring at the battery. Something is overloading the stator. Voltage should not drop from 14 while warm and steady running.

 

^^^^^^^^^this
jbarr is correct, you have somethibg else going on. do not use house brand electrical parts,,,,go with name brand stuff like Cycle Electric or OEM,,,,they just flat out work better, pay the price, its worth it.
m

 

1) Use cycle Electric or OEM - not stuff by the Ch Ina company
2) Check the smaller wire that goes from the starter positive to the circuit breaker. Many times they will be corroded in the insulation (black copper wire at the starter side going back into the insulation is common to see on them this old). If the wire is bad replace it as it is used in the circuit for reference for charging. When corroded it will overcharge as it's got high resistance under load and the VR thinks it need to step it up.
3) Compare voltage at battery to reading on gauge so your customer has a known reading. First measure at the battery, then measure at the gauge connector. This will tell you if there is a voltage drop that needs to be addressed in the harness. Then set the gauge to read what the voltage is at it's connector (not the battery). This is done with a tiny flat screwdriver through the little hole in the gauge.

 

What Ed says. I'd also replace the circuit breaker and either solder or crimp and solder new terminals to wires going to the circuit breaker.

I'd also clean and check the grounds on the main harness and cables. IIRC there are 2 studs in front of the battery down inside the frame that all the ground terminals attach to.

Note that the dash voltmeter can be reading voltage close to a DVM but it won't catch voltage spikes as the movement is heavily dampened.

I'd suspect that it's not a short until a voltage spike burns through insulation from a loose connection.. Life on the no name stuff should be longer than 100 miles.

 

Is 13.5 bad at idle or low rpms?

Even though some manuals say to check at 2000 rpm I always go to around 80 volts ac. See it over the range and see it where it will be ride


The breaker was replaced initially.

In trouble shooting threads I think best to list facts and leave out the story.

List what was replaced each time and readings. You can do it at bottom after you tell story. Facts get lost and people get bored reading stories

Something to be said for executive summary and bullet points

 

It is interesting to check voltage difference at gauge, and this may help trouble shooting while riding. But not sure this has anything to do with the problem.


All the trouble shooting is being done with a hand held meter and not gauge?

 

Thanks for the "tip" about listing facts first, leaving out the long story. Point taken.