Cam chain tensioner shoe replacement.
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,569
Likes: 624
From: deland,florida
DO NOT use OEM tensioners,either go with the hyd up grade,gear drive cams or the least expensive option,CYRO tensioner pads
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,566
Likes: 55
From: Londonderry, NH
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
If you are only going to replace the pads, use the Cyco pads. Gear drive and hyd upgrade are better choices, but you can get by with the Cyco pads.
Last edited by nhrider1; Dec 20, 2016 at 07:25 AM. Reason: spelling
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,603
Likes: 6,438
From: Honah Lee
It's truly not worth the cost to convert and hardly worth the savings to just replace the small pad with an aftermarket pad. I have ask and ask on here for someone who has truly did that him self, put 50K on the pad and post a picture. No one has yet to do it. All you see is the good deal for the part on places like Ebay. Do not fall for any upgrade that still leaves the inner link chain on your bike. That is what wears the shoe since it always rubs and never rolls like a roller chain that Harley went to in 2007 and 2008 across the line. They disguised it a hydraulic fix but it was really the chain.
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Stage II
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: Sebring, Florida
That's good advice from prodrag1320...only I believe he meant Cyco Tensioner Pads, as referenced below:
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
If you are only going to replace the pads, use the Cyco pads. Gear drive and hyd upgrade are better choices, but you can get by with the Cyco pads.
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
If you are only going to replace the pads, use the Cyco pads. Gear drive and hyd upgrade are better choices, but you can get by with the Cyco pads.
It's truly not worth the cost to convert and hardly worth the savings to just replace the small pad with an aftermarket pad. I have ask and ask on here for someone who has truly did that him self, put 50K on the pad and post a picture. No one has yet to do it. All you see is the good deal for the part on places like Ebay. Do not fall for any upgrade that still leaves the inner link chain on your bike. That is what wears the shoe since it always rubs and never rolls like a roller chain that Harley went to in 2007 and 2008 across the line. They disguised it a hydraulic fix but it was really the chain.
That's good advice from prodrag1320...only I believe he meant Cyco Tensioner Pads, as referenced below:
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
If you are only going to replace the pads, use the Cyco pads. Gear drive and hyd upgrade are better choices, but you can get by with the Cyco pads.
http://www.harleydavidsontensioner.com/
If you are only going to replace the pads, use the Cyco pads. Gear drive and hyd upgrade are better choices, but you can get by with the Cyco pads.
where can I order them at? Cyco don't sell retail.
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Dec 30, 2016 at 06:01 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
It's truly not worth the cost to convert and hardly worth the savings to just replace the small pad with an aftermarket pad. I have ask and ask on here for someone who has truly did that him self, put 50K on the pad and post a picture. No one has yet to do it. All you see is the good deal for the part on places like Ebay. Do not fall for any upgrade that still leaves the inner link chain on your bike. That is what wears the shoe since it always rubs and never rolls like a roller chain that Harley went to in 2007 and 2008 across the line. They disguised it a hydraulic fix but it was really the chain.
You are advising forum members to avoid the SE hybrid kit and only go for the full hydraulic upgrade or gear drive cams which seems extreme as well as misguided to me.Everyone that has replaced the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO shoes has done just that, replace the OEM shoe with an aftermarket shoe and save $$. It may be a while before one such individual gets 50K miles rolled up and when they do they will most likely have forgotten your request; so don't hold your breath. I challenge you to find reports of the CYCO shoes failing under the link chain. Completely different material from the OEM shoes; very much like the primary chain shoe material.
It is true that a new link chain has some rough edges and with the high pressure of the spring will eat into the OEM tensioners. However, after some miles, the link chain is "polished" by the OEM tensioners. Back in the day before CYCO and hydraulic tensioners, many DIYers on a budget would simply replace worn OEM tensioners with new OEM tensioners, polish the link chain with a buffing wheel and jewelers compound, put all back together and run many issue free miles.
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,603
Likes: 6,438
From: Honah Lee
You just be kidding. You are advising forum members to avoid the SE hybrid kit and only go for the full hydraulic upgrade or gear drive cams which seems extreme as well as misguided to me.
Everyone that has replaced the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO shoes has done just that, replace the OEM shoe with an aftermarket shoe and save $$. It may be a while before one such individual gets 50K miles rolled up and when they do they will most likely have forgotten your request; so don't hold your breath. I challenge you to find reports of the CYCO shoes failing under the link chain. Completely different material from the OEM shoes; very much like the primary chain shoe material.
It is true that a new link chain has some rough edges and with the high pressure of the spring will eat into the OEM tensioners. However, after some miles, the link chain is "polished" by the OEM tensioners. Back in the day before CYCO and hydraulic tensioners, many DIYers on a budget would simply replace worn OEM tensioners with new OEM tensioners, polish the link chain with a buffing wheel and jewelers compound, put all back together and run many issue free miles.
You are advising forum members to avoid the SE hybrid kit and only go for the full hydraulic upgrade or gear drive cams which seems extreme as well as misguided to me.Everyone that has replaced the OEM tensioner shoes with the CYCO shoes has done just that, replace the OEM shoe with an aftermarket shoe and save $$. It may be a while before one such individual gets 50K miles rolled up and when they do they will most likely have forgotten your request; so don't hold your breath. I challenge you to find reports of the CYCO shoes failing under the link chain. Completely different material from the OEM shoes; very much like the primary chain shoe material.
It is true that a new link chain has some rough edges and with the high pressure of the spring will eat into the OEM tensioners. However, after some miles, the link chain is "polished" by the OEM tensioners. Back in the day before CYCO and hydraulic tensioners, many DIYers on a budget would simply replace worn OEM tensioners with new OEM tensioners, polish the link chain with a buffing wheel and jewelers compound, put all back together and run many issue free miles.
My first attachment is a conversion to a roller chain and still running a link chain. Then rooler setup..(once grooved in, it rolls and wears no more..but requires a cam change) Then cavitation from high rpm use. Mine at 30K..You inspect inner by noting how deep pin links are to shoe. They should not touch. Outer one can be measured...
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Sep 14, 2018 at 10:18 AM.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 12,776
Likes: 2,607
From: san antonio
You misunderstood my meaning of truly not worth the cost to convert. I meant that to not covert to anything. Check originals ever 25K or so for wear and replace at 10 years with OEM parts no matter what. However, if you must pay to have them inspected, just replace them with OEM shoes ratherthen inspect. Just MY OPINION. My original are still in my bike at 50K. Hardly warn at 30K If I ever stayed around during the winter, I would replace them next time due to age since hot oil makes delrin brittle. Those bumps you see on the outer links keep the oil from cavitating at high RPM (you can see the blown out chucks of those who hit the rev limiter frequently. They are not rough. There was a user on here who polished his link chain. Within the year, it was binding and kinking. Probably due to the fine lapping compound effect of polishing it and the almost impossible ability to wash the chin free of it.
My first attachment is a conversion to a roller chain and still running a link chain. Then rooler setup..(once grooved in, it rolls and wears no more..but requires a cam change) Then cavitation from high rpm use. Mine at 30K..You inspect inner by noting how deep pin links are to shoe. They should not touch. Outer one can be measured...
My first attachment is a conversion to a roller chain and still running a link chain. Then rooler setup..(once grooved in, it rolls and wears no more..but requires a cam change) Then cavitation from high rpm use. Mine at 30K..You inspect inner by noting how deep pin links are to shoe. They should not touch. Outer one can be measured...
I would never advise to keep OEM shoes with the alternatives currently available. Obviously I misunderstood since you seem to indicate in your above post that you are OK with the link chain and OEM shoes; however, in your previous post, you give the following advice "Do not fall for any upgrade that still leaves the inner link chain on your bike"; sounds like in one post you condemn the link chain but in the next you believe the link chain and OEM tensioners are superior to the current.
I know there are thousands of TC motors still running the OEM link chain and tensioners; however, with the history of catastrophic failure, without warning and the potential for the damage, I advise anyone who asks to replace the OEM tensioners with whatever alternative they choose and/or can afford. We will just have to agree to disagree on this one.