'06 EG Classic - FLHTCI

I opened the cam chest to look at the tensioners and "accidentally" (idiotically) broke the primary cam tensioner assembly. So I went to an HD dealer and bought the cam tensioner assembly and now have to figure out how to put it on. I definitely have to pre-load the spring to get it back on, so what tool do I need to do that? Or, can I remove the cam chain/gear, then put the tensioner on and use an allen wrench to lock it into place, and then put the cam chain/gear back in and remove the pin? If that will work, do I have to lock the chain so I can remove the bolts that hold the gear in place?

The sad part is, he tensioner pad was still ok after 45k miles!

Thanks

 

Factory Service Manual if you're gonna open up anything!!

 

Sorry for the mishap but, yeah, as you describe above. Remove the chain drive and sprockets, pull the cam plate/cams, remove cams with inner chain, replace tensioner and reverse the process. Some remove the oil pump with the cam plate but I prefer separating the two. You will need to align the oil pump to the pinion shaft when re-assembling.

And, yes, the service manual would be a real good idea.

 

Service Manual! Follow the procedure! DJL gives a pretty good description but you still should have the manual

 

Well, embarrassed to say I do have the manual but didn't follow it. So, I'm trying to make the best of a self-inflicted situation. I really don't want to pull the cam plate since the secondary tensioner pad looks ok and I'd have to deal w/ the pushrods and top end (or get adj. pushrods).

Right now, I'm just trying to get the primary tensioner installed the simplest way. Looks like here is no simple way unless I fab or buy a tool to pre-compress the spring so I can just slip it on.

 

There is a tool that will allow replacing the tensioner without removing the cams but, IMHO, not worth the cost for a one off job. The cam plate has to come off either way; the special tool just eliminates the R/R of the cams.

 

In my opinion, if you do one you might as well do both. But its not my money. I did mine its not a bad job. Adjustable pushrods make it allot easier. I have read that a 15/16 socket with a groove cut in it will fit ove the tensioner and an allen wrench in the hole with hold it back. but you eould have to take the chain and gears off the front of the cam because you would not be able to remove the tensioner until after you release the tension on it.

 

Ok, I removed the sprockets and installed the primary chain tensioner. Buttoned everything up and now it won't start. I'm thinking the crank may have moved while working on it w/ the cam chain and threw the timing off so I'd like to check the cam and crank sprocket punch marks are aligned.

I've got the spark plugs out to avoid compression and am trying to align the marks. The manual says the following which I'm trying to understand if someone can help me:

In part c, it says to put the primary cam sprocket on the splines, but the sprocket and spines are keyed so there's only one way to put it on (which implies that everything should be lined up already)

Then in part d , it says to rotate the primary cam sprocket but that's not easy because of the valve spring force on the cam.

Any suggestions on how to verify/get the two sprockets aligned properly?


Manual Instructions:

a. Place the primary cam sprocket in the cam chain.
Hold the sprocket allowing the chain to hang loose.
Rotate the sprocket so that the punch mark on the
sprocket root faces straight downward.
NOTE
To maintain the original direction of rotation, verify that the
colored mark placed on the chain link and crank sprocket is
facing away from the cam support plate during installation.
b. Place the crank sprocket in the opposite end of the
chain with the punch mark on the sprocket tooth facing
straight upward.
c. Maintaining the position of the sprockets on the
chain with the punch marks in alignment, start the
primary cam sprocket onto the splines of the rear
camshaft. Apply a thin film of clean H-D 20W50
engine oil to the splines before installation.
d. Maintaining the position of the crank sprocket on the
chain, rotate the primary cam sprocket in a clockwise
direction until the flat on the crank sprocket is
aligned with the flat on the crankshaft. Install the
crank sprocket.
24. Rotate the primary cam sprocket in a clockwise direction
until the punch mark on the root is aligned with the
punch mark on the crank sprocket tooth. Lay a straightedge
across the centerline of the crank and primary cam
sprocket flange bolt holes to verify that the punch marks
are in alignment. See Figure 3-54.(nice picture showing the punch marks aligned)

 

Open top end end and remove rocker arms so you can the turn the cams other wise I dont think you will be able turn them with the valve spring pressure!
Or cut the pushrods and use adjustable pushrods

 

Of course the OP can rotate the crank without removing the rockers; 5th gear with plugs out.

Two photos attached show the correct relationship between the pinion sprocket and the cam drive sprocket. Get them properly aligned and if it still won't start, different problem.