Help/advice needed: 95" motor on its last legs. What's the next move?
#12
I will deffintely further investigate before pulling the trigger. When I did the top end I changed the cam bearings, cam tensioners, etc. My oil has been relatively clean throughout the years but there was a lot of metal on the plug a few days ago when I drained it. I guess I forgot to mention that?? Haha.
I have buddy that told me he would sell me a 95" motor for a pretty decent price. I told him that before I pulled the plug on it I want to inspect it extremely thoroughly, and he was fine with that. What should I look for? Im going to break the top end apart, check everything out, but my main focus is on the crank. I think I will take off the came plate and do a crank run out test with a dial indicator and bring a feeler gauge to check out the connecting rod slop. Anything else?
I have buddy that told me he would sell me a 95" motor for a pretty decent price. I told him that before I pulled the plug on it I want to inspect it extremely thoroughly, and he was fine with that. What should I look for? Im going to break the top end apart, check everything out, but my main focus is on the crank. I think I will take off the came plate and do a crank run out test with a dial indicator and bring a feeler gauge to check out the connecting rod slop. Anything else?
#13
I will deffintely further investigate before pulling the trigger. When I did the top end I changed the cam bearings, cam tensioners, etc. My oil has been relatively clean throughout the years but there was a lot of metal on the plug a few days ago when I drained it. I guess I forgot to mention that?? Haha.
I have buddy that told me he would sell me a 95" motor for a pretty decent price. I told him that before I pulled the plug on it I want to inspect it extremely thoroughly, and he was fine with that. What should I look for? Im going to break the top end apart, check everything out, but my main focus is on the crank. I think I will take off the came plate and do a crank run out test with a dial indicator and bring a feeler gauge to check out the connecting rod slop. Anything else?
I have buddy that told me he would sell me a 95" motor for a pretty decent price. I told him that before I pulled the plug on it I want to inspect it extremely thoroughly, and he was fine with that. What should I look for? Im going to break the top end apart, check everything out, but my main focus is on the crank. I think I will take off the came plate and do a crank run out test with a dial indicator and bring a feeler gauge to check out the connecting rod slop. Anything else?
#14
Don't know what's not to get, I posted I will be investigating the issue more with the engine in now, I would assume the procedure I talked about looking over the new one would make it obvious I will be doing that to my current engine. I guess I didn't make that clear, my mistake. Fixated would be the wrong word to use, just cautious and looking for the easiest route. I took off the rear cylinder and thing is obvious that can be seen to cause this. I'll check the crank run out next
#15
#16
Hi guys. Did a crank runout test and everything serms to be fine, it's within the spec (.004.005) so I'm fine with that. The connecting rod bushings have literally NO play in them, which I've never seen, is SOME play required? Maybe after it heats up they will expand. I'm trying to figure out else can be the cause, I really don't want it to be put together then start knocking again. I'm kind of stuck here....I'm going to check the tolerances for the oil pump...maybe they are out of spec
#18
Spend as much time and money as you need to diagnose the knock. I suggest going to 2-3 mechanics.
Recently I bought really nice car dirt cheap. Engine was making noise. 5 hours diagnosing, 2 hours labor, $70 part. It was rattling timing belt tensioner. I probably made $2k in one day. Do you want me to buy your bike and make 2k more?
Recently I bought really nice car dirt cheap. Engine was making noise. 5 hours diagnosing, 2 hours labor, $70 part. It was rattling timing belt tensioner. I probably made $2k in one day. Do you want me to buy your bike and make 2k more?
#19
As of right now, it seems that I am going to keep my stock bottom end. I cannot see anything wrong with it, the bearings everything seems to be fine and within spec. There is some scoring on my cam plate/oil pump where they both meet up so I might get a new oil pump and/or cam plate and start building her back up again, checking every single thing. Anyone disagree?
#20