Help/advice needed: 95" motor on its last legs. What's the next move?

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Jun 10, 2017 | 08:58 PM

m_mcdonnell314

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From: NJ

Help/advice needed: 95" motor on its last legs. What's the next move?

Need some help/advice. My 01 road King has a little over 50k on it. I did a 95" big bore kit on it a while back with cams, adjustable pushrods, new lifters, etc. It's recently developed a pretty back knock when the bike is all warmed up/riding temp, but doesn't do it at start up. I'm 99% sure it's a engine knock (compensator nut is good, lifters are new ish, all the usuahave been checked, etc.) The top end is relatively new compared to the bottom end, im suspecting the bearings are on it way out in the crank. Maybe the it doesn't do it when it's cold/not warmed up is because the tolerances in the bearings and shafts haven't fully expanded? The bike has generally been pretty "noisy" it's entire life I have had it, but it's getting pretty bad now. When warmed up/at operating temp the noise is consistent with rpm changes.

My question is, what should I do? I would like to split the cases and do a 103 stroke motor since I have 103 heads, and the 95 and 103 share the same bore size and my crank needs to be replaced anyway. I am on a budget and don't want to go crazy but I'm not a cheap skate either. I would want to reuse as much parts as possible, thinking the only new things I would need to get is the crank, Pistons/rings/clips, highflow cam plate/oil pump, and whatever gaskets/bearings need to be replaced.Any input is appreciated

Last edited by m_mcdonnell314; Jun 10, 2017 at 08:59 PM. Reason: spell check

Jun 11, 2017 | 06:41 AM

roussfam

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From: Ottawa, Ontario

Just FYI the 103, 96, and 88 heads are all the same and interchangeable. Harley switched to beehive valve springs in the mid 2000's, and 2006 up flow a little better. Some later models were drilled for ACR's and a extra motor mount, that's all.

Jun 11, 2017 | 07:29 AM

Notgrownup

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From: Snow Hill, NC

I wouldn't be to quick to split the case but those engines have the forged crank and timken lefty bearings in so make sure you ain't splitting the case just for giggles. It could very well be something else, if you don't know how to diagnose yourself you might save a lot of money by spending some for a diagnosis.

Jun 11, 2017 | 07:39 AM

big cahuna

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From: Deep in the heart of New Jersey

Here's something to try. When it's warmed up and knocking, shut it off and pull the rear plug wire. Then start it back up. If the knocking stops or reduce's, That could be a cracked/ broken wrist pin. You 'd have to pull the rear head and cylinder to replace it, but at least you won't have to split the cases.,,

Jun 11, 2017 | 07:54 AM

98hotrodfatboy

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From: Poolville

A knock not a tap or a tic is always worth a second opinion of which a reputable local Indy would gladly help you with.... It can save you a lot in the long run...

Jun 11, 2017 | 08:15 PM

m_mcdonnell314

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From: NJ

Thanks for all the responses. Those were all good suggestions, I didn't even think about pulling a spark plug off the cylinder and re starting it, I deffintely will do that. I know my way around these bikes pretty well, have done a few top end jobs, transmission work, pretty much anything major so I will do all the wrenching my self, as well as get another opinion on the knock.

Of course I hope the crank is not knocking, bur the bike does have a lot of miles on the bottom end, a rebuild is coming whether I like it or not. If it did come to splitting cases, what's the route to go? I was thinking of getting a 103" or 96" crank (I believe they both have the same stroke) and using my existing cylinders/heads/pushrods with new pistons. What came plate do I use? Can I still re use my Andrews cams designed for a 88" bike? Just a lot of questions as I cant want to spend 3k on a name brand stroker kit

Jun 12, 2017 | 12:48 PM

djl

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From: san antonio

You will get a variety of opinions on a way forward. I have been down the road and can tell you without hesitation that should you split the cases, you should build as big a motor as your budget allows.

You can't replace your '01 crank, which is the best the MoCo has made; the HD replacement will be of a lesser quality IMHO. You can have the '01 crank serviced by Hoban Brothers for about $500 IIRC; no truing or balancing but refurbishing to "like new" condition. Not my money but spending another $600 will get you a trued, balanced and plugged 4.375" crank. You already have the Timken left side bearing which Hoban will replace as well as the other crank bearings. A set of the new bolt in HD 4" cylinders and pistons will go on without case boring and you are now looking at a 110" motor.

There are several cam plate options but, again, JMHO, the '01 OEM cam plate with new outer bearings and new pump will work just fine. If more pump capacity is desired, Daytona offers a higher capacity pump for about $125 on Ebay.

Again, JMHO, but the cams you are running in the "old" motor, should probably be replaced with cams more suited for the larger displacement motor. Cylinder heads will be OK as is but, again, mo money, head work will only compliment the displacement upgrade.

So, the way forward depends on your goals and budget but, as has been said, it would be wise to be sure that the noise you are hearing is coming from the lower unit.