2016 FLHR
Little over 2 ˝ years old
70k miles
Stock except air, pipes, decatted with a V&H FP3 and external crankcase breather

I am starting to think ahead to a rebuild and was looking for a ballpark as to what that would cost.
I have never had any issues and she runs like a top, so assuming everything is in good shape otherwise and not looking to build a shredder other than a torquier cam, I’m wondering what I am looking at.
I don’t really have the facilities to do this scope of work, so I would have a local shop do the work.
Would anyone be able to ballpark this?

 

"Reuild" requires definition which is based on the desired outcome. You might be able to achieve your goal with a cam only upgrade and a tune. What are your goals and where do you want the power increase?

 

purely a refresh..top and bottom, by the time my winter gets here I should be pushing 100k...
looking to stay stock other than a bolt-in cam upgrade for a bit more torque

 

First I need to say that I envy you being able to roll up that many miles in two years; I wish I could find the time to do the same.

Well, we are sneaking up on your goal. Words like "refresh" and "top and bottom" leave a lot to the imagination. Does "refresh" mean bore to .020" OS and new pistons/rings? Or does "refresh" mean boring to 107" and new pistons/rings? Or does "refresh" mean replace 103" cylinders with a 110" set of cylinders and pistons? Several available options to "refresh" the top end and each carries a different cost. WRT the "top and bottom" are you planning to replace or rebuild the crank shaft? Does "top" refer to the top end, i.e., cylinders and pistons which have been addressed or does "top" refer to the cylinder heads. If refreshing the top end, heads should also be included which opens up another set of options.

"Bottom" would indicate that you are considering replacing or "refreshing" the crank shaft which also presents options for beefing up the bottom end for a longer future life.

I would also ask why? Your OP indicated that the motor is running great with no issues, so unless oil consumption or compression or leak down indicate problems, is a refresh really necessary? If you just want to return the motor to "new" condition, that is one thing but if, in the process, you want to improve performance as well, the options are many.

If you just want to bore cylinders, regardless of over bore, you are probably looking at $800-$1000. However, if you do that, it only makes sense to clean up the heads, replace guide seals, maybe springs and have a good multi-angle valve job done, probably another $350-$450. Add another $100-$125 for gaskets and oil and you are looking at $1250-$1575. That does not include any work in the cam chest, i.e., new inner cam bearings, new cams, check and possibly replace oil pump which would add another $500-$600. These are off the hip numbers with no knowledge of the shop rate in your area, do not address any bottom end work or where/who buys parts, so cost will vary accordingly. If you do the work yourself, you could save near half that cost; just need some tools and the service manual. I do all my work myself so I am not in touch with what local shops charge but do know that some near me charge at least $75/hour and many charge $100/hour. If you had all this work done at once, I suspect most shops would charge at least 8 hours. Hope that helps.

 

Ok.. got some numbers to sort through now.
from my OP and then follow up my intent was to relay that my intention was to remain stock with the exception, of a simple bolt in cam. No head modifications, and not looking to bore anything out either. This is a Road King not a street shredder LOL
I figured if I hit close too 100k miles by deep winter, I would be ahead to "refresh" before spring and potentially loose ride time due to pushing things too far

 

You may not intend to bore; however, at 100K miles you should at least check compression and leak down before making that decision. If you want to roll up another 100K miles, freshening up the top end, including a valve job along with the addition of a bolt in cam would be a good idea.

 

Like I stated, I won't be doing this work myself, I just don't have the facilities.
I do however have an indie shop that I trust, I am merely looking for a ballpark figure that I need to have on hand for such a thing.
But you are hitting on what my intention is

 

If oil consumption is low and compression good I'd run it for another year. If you decide to do the top end,I'd also rebuild the cam chest with new lifters, inner bearings and tensioner shoes. With the miles you are putting on the motor, I would assume most are open road miles. They are the best possible conditions for an HD. One thing that kills em (IMO) is sitting in traffic.

 

thanx
I would like to take her down on my terms