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Engine Mechanical TopicsDiscussion for motor builds, cams, head work, stripped bolts and other engine related issues. The good and the bad. If it goes round and around or up and down, post it here.
2007 FLHRCI, yeah it's an earlier one bought in Sept of 06 with the supposed inferior tensionershoes. Rode it home 2 nights ago at 75 MPH for an hour and all was good. Following evening went to pull out of the driveway and the oil light came on as the engine chattered. Spun it right around and took the cam cover off. Primary tensioner failed so I bought both tensioners today. Got the cam plate off to find the oil pump destroyed to where the pump won't slide off the crankshaft.
I know technically replacing the crankshaft is the absolute right thing to do but what are the chances of hitting the crank with some emery cloth to get the pump off and proceeding to put it back together with a new pump? After checking the crank run out and cam plate bearings of course!
For what it's worth, the crank is only damaged on the one side between the two flat spots.
Anybody had any luck with this unfortunate scenario?
Edit: Some may suggest a bunch of upgrades, not an option right now with recent doctor bills.
Thanks fellas
Last edited by superprohero; Jul 13, 2018 at 10:19 PM.
Damn, that is some bum luck right there. I feel for you brother, but I don't have an answer for you just know that I hope these bright Minds here have a fancy solution to get you on the road with very little cost.
He needs to take the crank to a machine shop and let them look at it and give him an estimate. I think it`s repairable. `Don`t think it`s a good idea to use any abrasive on it, because some grit could become embedded in the metal and cause further problems. Most likely the shop would babbit the crank, turn it on a lathe and polish it. Of course they would check it with a micrometer first.
I think that Babbit will be to soft for this application . Perhaps heliarc the damaged area and re-machine. 2007 cranks are not the best example of QC. You have to pull it all apart, why not just get an S&S crank and do it right the first time? Or, at least, send it to Darkhorse.
Very true but they aren't big fans of 2007 cranks. I look at it this way, when money is tight; you can't afford to do something twice. An S&S crank and quality parts for the re-build is the " cheapest" way to do this IMO. If money is too tight, wait a while and do it right. Barring that, find some guy here who you think you can trust who has put in an S&S and has a better 4 3/8" crank lying around. Anything else is good money and time after bad. It could have been pinion TIR that got the oil pump. Pull the pump and check the pinion runout; damage on only one side of the pinion shaft says (to me) that its out of spec.
Last edited by Campy Roadie; Jul 14, 2018 at 02:43 PM.