I know this post has probably come up a 100 time by hope the group will help give some new advice and guidance towards existing posts or new knewledge. I mean who does wanna give there input on a stock 88 upgraded. Please give your suggestions or experience/recommendations of threads to lines.

Ride: stock 2005 88efi heritage softail. 19400 mi stage a 1 screaming eagle exhaust and air filter up grade.

situation: bought with 16000mi no preexisting issues. Ride all fluid services made after purchase and within 2000mi. Left at 19050Rode 150mi and noticed issues.
mat 35mph between stop lights began to feel vibration and noises ( sounded like bearing slipping) pulled off and park.

question: bout to dig in, not sure if balancer in motor or stock can tensioner went out. Either way going to upgrade. Looking for recommendations. I know shops and prices will very. Would like to acquire all parts and take to shop. Still need overall diagnostic but just had a baby and looking to spend not more that $3000 every thing but motor on bike is mint. I like to ride a couple days a week in some short unwinding time and maybe a 400mi trip every now and then. Would like alittle more top end but crushing at 75mph on highway is fine with me.

thanks for all the help,
newbie

 

Lets hope its not a balancer issue as that work is going to hurt your upgrade budget

Standard answer is bore to 98 c.i.d. / select a cam that suits your goal and raise C.R. / Head work and compression releases preferred but optional / EFI will need to be tuned.
There`s a zillion recipes and everybody thinks theirs is "best" Why not inquire what your "shop" recommends

.9 hp per c.i.d. would yield 88 hp and makes for a very pleasant engine but doesn`t give you the "bragging rights" that some find so important

 

I don't disagree with 88 and also have fingers crossed that balancer assembly isn't the source of the vibration as a repair will definintely bust the budget. I just have a fee addiional comments to add to his post.

Most shops are not particularly keen on using owner aquired parts. If the OP is not going to turn the wrenches, why not let the shop buy the parts. The OP can source the parts, make a list and useit to keep the shop pricing in check.

With the modifications 88 suggets, 1-1.1 hp per cubic inch is quite possible with the right combination of parts and a good tune.

88 is right about the number of configurations and opinions about which is "best" but there are a couple of "go to" configurations that have proven to be reliable and consistent in the results; not "bragging rights" plans but solid performers. Selecting a shop that has the experience and history of satisfied customers is a trick all in itself. Good luck and keep us posted on plan and progress. Lots of knowledgeable members here to keep the OP from making mistakes.

 

^ I followed this gentleman's advice in `19 when going from 88 to 98
Quite pleased with the results then & now

EDIT: I`m guessing on my mild build giving .9 per as being a carb unit I never had it on a dyno

 

Was the vibration present when stopped or did it go away? How does a bearing slipping sound? Is there a squeal while running? Does the sound and vibration change with RPM? These are the first questions you should answer before ripping into this as you could have a tire, neck bearing, wheel bearing issue not tied to the engine at all. With only 19400 miles I would think that the two possibilities that you suggested would be far fetched at best. If there is issues in the engine, look at the oils of all 3 holes, how much is there? Just do the 20000 mile service early and see how much comes out, you may just be low on tranny oil.