My thoughts on the cam bearing tool is more the install of the new one, the tool is supposed to set for the correct depth, not sure how i would do that otherwise? Assuming there's a way, I don't mind picking up a harbor freight puller and spending the money elsewhere. I've got some wiggle room with cash and haven't placed any orders yet. Do i need an ignition? The only thing about how the bike currently runs that I don't like is that its all done at 4900. Not like rev limiter done, just falls flat. I assumed lame cam and lack of fuel. 98hotrod, what difference will adjustable pushrods make? and i guess it's all relative, my buddy in the city calls me upstate, I would call you upstate etc etc haha! Uncle G, hope we can meet for a coffee some day!

 

The Evo Air cooled motor expands more than one would think. The oem pushrods set the preload of the lifter to about .100" so when the cylinders expand it reduces the amount of preload. Installing adjustable pushrods allows you to set the preload deeper to .140" so when the motor gets hot your preload will still be over .100". I would replace the lifters if your gonna do a cam. A lot of guys like the Johnson Hi-Lifts. I use S&S. I would also use the S&S adjustable pushrods, everyone has their choice and I think they fit the lifter and rocker cups better than most... you can get them for around $119, Ebay...

On the ignition, I have to agree on the switch if every thing is going dead.... It happened to mine. When it did, I grabbed some wire and a couple of connectors (to jump out the ignition switch) from a nearby dealership to get me home.. It worked....

A stock cam will fall off around 5k.... You want a cam that will carry out to 5500. The V-Thunder EVL-3010 will do that.... Ground by Competition cams. I used to use them in the stock car back in the day.... Ask member Ruggs59 how he likes his EVL-3010...
The Andrews EV-27 is also a good choice. Ramps up a little faster then the 3010....

Yea, the further upstate you live the further upstate is.... I currently live on Long Island, so technically it's all upstate from here.... And more like a couple of

Save you money on the cam bearing tool and rent it. Once replaced, it's probably gonna be the last time you use it.... Unless you buy and sell lots of bikes or are a shop...

 

Yes it is. There's the New York Metro area and upstate. That's it. Everything north of Poughkeepsie is "upstate".

 

Info on the push rods makes sense, thank you for the info. And yeah, upstate is upstate pretty much lol! Still up in the air on ignition and ability to set new cam bearing to proper depth. ...

 

Going to dredge this one up for some help. I purchased the air filter referenced in post number 5. Do I need an alternate backing plate to install it? Doesn't seem to jive with my stock one. Haven't done any of the other changes I mentioned early in this thread, just been riding and enjoying. Bike has been truly dead nuts reliable, couldn't be happier 😊

 

That air filter only fits arlen ness "big sucker" air cleaners. If you have your stock air box, it won't work.

 

Darn. Intake worth it?

 

I put a "Big Sucker" on my bike when i still had the CV carb. It is a good air cleaner. If your bike is stock, I'd just pick up a new filter from the dealer or a K&N online and use your original air box.

 

Well, i was annoyed that I had a filter I couldn't use, so i went ahead and picked up the Ness assembly. Yeah, now I have an extra filter, but it was cheaper to buy the kit than it was to get the backing plate and hardware only through Ness. Installed and took a little tour earlier this week. Definitely should have invested in decent airflow of some sort a while back. Significant seat of the pants difference in throttle response across the board. My only complaint is that I still have pops on decel and I'm not sure where to start looking. Setup is as follows: Base engine is bone stock, 45kmiles. Slip on pipes with long baffles, but wrapping removed (still popped with wrapping, fwiw) Stock head pipes. Carb has been thoroughly cleaned . New seals, float valve etc. Float level checked per fsm. Idle mixture screw out just shy of 3 turns. 48 pilot, 180 main. Intake gaskets also replaced, mating surfaces cleaned and just a touch of grease on the seals to help slide them in place. Ness 'big sucker' setup with factory cover. Aside from the pop on decel, the only other odd habit (and maybe it's not odd, this is my first evo) is that I can't even look at the throttle when starting the bike. If it's cold, pull the enricher and push the button, it will roll to life, no problems. Hot restart when enricher is not needed, I kind of have to wait until it's beginning to fire before I touch the throttle, or it will fall on its face. Nit-picky things, I suppose, but thought I'd throw them in the mix.