TRUE DUALS less than 3.00 really!
#1
05-28-2008, 05:17 PM
TRUE DUALS less than 3.00 really!
I got a lot of help, suggestions and appreciated opinions and advice about true duals on this forum. There was someone selling a "kit" on ebay(for too much)that required you to cut one pipe, another selling a conversion that looked really nice for about 185.00.But being "poor people" I had to find another way and discovered a way to have true duals on my Dresser for less than 3.00 (yes, three dollars) Andonly takes 10 minutes to install.........
So, I'm kinda fishing here to see how many people are curious and/or interested enough to post an inquiry. If enough care to know, I'll post the answer.
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OK, I'm posting this as an "edit" as well as a new post to the thread. Not sure how this forum handles everything.
All you need is a piece of 1 1/2 pipe about 4 inches long. Get a coupling from the "fast-food" parts store for about 2.00 and tax, or a piece of scrap from a muffler shop. Using the coupler, you may need to roll it around on the SIDE of a benck grinder wheel to get the high spots out of it. Either way, get it so it'll easily slip into the H pipe (from the muffler end) at least half-way. Then split it long way with a hack saw or thin grinder wheel.
Remove your muffler, clock the sliced area about 90 degrees from the opening in the H pipe and using a hammer and a piece of heavy pipe or big rod, tap it into the H pipe until it covers the area where the rear down pipe intersects. There is enough ragged left from the factory to grip the adapter and not let it move around.
You can use a coathanger with a short L bend to check whether you've covered the opening, or guage the same if you don't want to totally block it off.
Word of caution - after slicing, the adapter should slip rather easily into the main pipe at least to where the downpipe starts into the main. Otherwise, you may have trouble getting it all the way in. If not, work it down on the grinder or make the slice wider. On a new H pipe, I was able to push the last one I made all the way with a D-cell maglite body and after 5000 miles, it hasn't moved. Works great!
So, I'm kinda fishing here to see how many people are curious and/or interested enough to post an inquiry. If enough care to know, I'll post the answer.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
OK, I'm posting this as an "edit" as well as a new post to the thread. Not sure how this forum handles everything.
All you need is a piece of 1 1/2 pipe about 4 inches long. Get a coupling from the "fast-food" parts store for about 2.00 and tax, or a piece of scrap from a muffler shop. Using the coupler, you may need to roll it around on the SIDE of a benck grinder wheel to get the high spots out of it. Either way, get it so it'll easily slip into the H pipe (from the muffler end) at least half-way. Then split it long way with a hack saw or thin grinder wheel.
Remove your muffler, clock the sliced area about 90 degrees from the opening in the H pipe and using a hammer and a piece of heavy pipe or big rod, tap it into the H pipe until it covers the area where the rear down pipe intersects. There is enough ragged left from the factory to grip the adapter and not let it move around.
You can use a coathanger with a short L bend to check whether you've covered the opening, or guage the same if you don't want to totally block it off.
Word of caution - after slicing, the adapter should slip rather easily into the main pipe at least to where the downpipe starts into the main. Otherwise, you may have trouble getting it all the way in. If not, work it down on the grinder or make the slice wider. On a new H pipe, I was able to push the last one I made all the way with a D-cell maglite body and after 5000 miles, it hasn't moved. Works great!
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05-30-2008, 09:26 AM
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