First some background:
98 Ultra - Lifter block came loose going to work one day. Trailered home because I didn't have a 12 point 1/4" socket at work. Figured since I was going to change the gasket, might as well change the lifters (53K on the bike). Also bought quick install push rods. Installed all above, using NO RTV or gasket sealer. Used new lifter block allen head bolts, brought the forward inside one down to barely finger tight because I don't have the alignment pin that the manual calls for. Installed/torqued the rest of the lifter block bolts leaving the "alignment bolt" for last. Installed pushrods, tubes and let set for 20 minutes. Spun her thru without plugs, installed plugs and she fired right up. Took her for a ride (3 miles) and found a leak coming from the midsection of the lifter tube. Dissembled, inspected tube, no nicks, burrs. O ring is installed correctly. Installed new O ring. Took another 3 mile ride, still leaks.

Question? It seems as if the pushrod tube is not draining. Why? or am I looking up the wrong tree?

 

Open it up (without removing the pushrod, just pull the lock and slide the covers together a bit) and wipe everything clean. While you're in there look for a visible seam at the funnel end or any sign of chrome flaking of the lower cover tube, and/or a nick or burr on the upper cover tube. If nothing looks ary, make sure it's clean - one tiny speck of debris will make them leak as will any burred or irregular surface where the o-ring sits. Otherwise, they are basically trouble free and the center o-rings can be re-used indefinitely.

 

t150vej thanks,
could not see anything so used my thumbnail to feel for anything. Sure enough found a slight nick. Used jeweler file until smooth to the feel. Fixed.

Ever out this way, you got a place to rest your head and garage space for your bike. Frig always has beer in it too.

 

Good job, Pete! And I do sincerely appreciate the invite.

 

Developed leak from same push rod tube. Ordered new tubes, reinstalled. Weeps above 2500 rpm now. Pulled apart again. still leaks. Inspected tube prior to install to make sure no burrs, dings etc.

Side note: First installed with new tubes revealed something I did not know. It seems the tubes are pressurized for it sounded like a blown head gasket. Moving fingers around to verify, had air blowing out of tube. Reseated tube, no air leak but still have oil weeping from midsection of tube (verified location with inspection mirror) but only above 2500 RPM.

I'm totally lost on this one.

 

If I am not mistaken, the pushrods have oil holes in each end that need to be open. I have read somewhere else on this forum where new pushrods were plugged up with stuff. If it was plugged up, oil may be going around pushrod at the lifter, instead of going up the pushrod like its supposed to. Could fill up pushrod tube. Just a thought.

 

As I noted in another thread, you could have a bent pushrod (sometimes they are brazed together crooked). The "fatter" adjustable rods are a tighter fit in the tubes, and can rub and "rock" the tubes if they're not perfectly straight. If they rock the tubes enough, they can cause an intermittant leak.

 

What year is that Pete? Just asking whether it's a bottom or top breather. They will make a pressurized blowing sound on the down stroke (either version) from either the cam side or the flywheel side - that is normal if something beside the breather vent is "open." But you mentioned earlier it seemed to be building pressure. Could be a restricted breather outlet and if it's a top breather I'd suspect the outlet at the air cleaner fitting or beyond, bottom breather the vent hose may be restricted. If you wonder what "normal" pressure is, take out the timing plug and start it - it'll blow oil/air across the room under strong pressure, again that's normal. It's the baffles of whichever breather system that keeps it quiet when running.

 

It's a 98 making it a top breather.
Breather hose runs to the open air instead of the AC. I will check to see if it is blowing when running. It should!
I remember installing a clear timing hole plug so I could time shovels and pans. Never thought it got as far as the pushrod tubes.

Checked pushrods for blockage.

Checked the pushrod for 'bends', straight as an arrow and the upper/inner tube has no scratches on it. Bought some thicker o-rings to see if I can't get more squish at the center section. Replaced all o-rings again just to be sure. Currently waiting for bleed down on the lifters. I will find out what happens shortly.

 

This may sound dumb or insulting, you do have the flat thin washers in the center section between the spring and center o-ring? And sometimes they give you a quad seal (square) rather than a round o-ring. Never had any luck with them.

But actually feeling it blow at the assembled tube means it's wide open for whatever reason. Also, the breather gear is timed so it does blow hard on the downstroke going real slow, but it also closes creating a mild vacuum on the upstroke resulting in a near balance at idle running speed. They all "puff" a bit more than suck right at the breather outlet, but idling it shouldn't blow out the hose like you'd experience at the timing plug with it removed. Again, the baffle in the valve covers takes care of a lot of it and I've never seen an umbrella valve (which is basically a check valve) stick shut.