Warmer weather has been here for a few days and I finally overhauled the carb and been down the road a few times checking it over since it was stored all winter, and now this unusual issue shows up.

What do I adjust to keep the choke from closing on it's own as I'm headed down the road? When I come to a stop the idle is on fast idle and the choke has partially closed on it's own.

How do I keep the cable from moving on it's own and either drawing the choke closed or vibrating it closed?

I don't see anything in the manual that adjusts the choke cable's retention so it stays open when I'm not using it.

Thanks, I have one more day of riding tomorrow with 60+ degree weather and sunshine before we head into a mixed precipitation storm this weekend with arctic temps coming back. Looks like a week or more before it'll get warmed up again ... UGH!

 

there should be a nut on the back of the plate that holds the ****. tighten that, but be careful! if you over tighten it will crack the plastic ring behind the actual **** itself. that should fix that!

 

Ditto.....Yeah that'll fix it, And yes don't over tighten it , because i learned the hard way !!!

 

+1. Just as you think you'll give it that one last turn....POP! And you're off to the dealership to buy a new cable.

 

Too simple. Thanks for the details too!

It's been a long time since I dealt with a choke cable, and usually they don't get loose as they get older.

I looked through the manual again and noted a detent ball and tiny spring that holds the choke in it's set positions. It's located behind the fast idle cam. It feels like those parts are working right. You can feel it pausing when sliding the choke all the way in and out.

Real glad I won't have to strip off the air filter and work on the carb some more. The carb has been off and on a few times in the past couple of days rebuilding it, and then getting the float set right, and then again to get the bowl gasket from leaking.

Probably time for new plugs after the last few choked test drives.

 

Man I had the same issue with mine, would **** me off because it would always close by itself. Had to sit there and keep it open manually. The fix was so darn easy! The choke **** has a black plastic nut on the shaft. All I did was lightly tightened the nut and it was fixed! It took all of 2 minutes. Just wish I figured it out 5 years ago! It's was just one of those "I'll get to it things". Hope it works for you..

 

there's a black plastic almost knurled nut that holds the cable in place. tighten that and you'll increase friction on the cable for the enrichener a.k.a. choke. at least i think this the case if my memory serves me.

 

I broke my choke cable reinstalling it last fall when I took off the carb. I kept cranking on the plastic nut until the plastic threads broke off. Felt pretty dumb. In fact I'm installing a new cable today since I had to remove the tank to check my upper motor mount. I guess the ticket is to hand-tighten the nut and then just give a 1/4 turn with the wrench.

 

I'm assuming your bike has the original carb for an '86 from the above quote. If not, I'm about to make a fool of myself (ha-ha wouldn't be the first time)

Sorry to break the news, and I'm sure it was with the very best of intentions, but every post here is incorrect in relation to JohnnyC's carb/choke and most are not totally correct when referring to a CV carb enricher cable.

The CV enricher cable has a mounting nut (backside of the bracket) and a friction **** that is thin and knurled on the outer side. The backnut will jam the outer knurled friction nut against the bracket so you have to loosen it, finger tighten the outer, then snug the rear hex nut.

JohnnyC apparently has the original carb which is a Keihin butterfly type. It uses an air choke (plate) and the operating mechanism is a totally different animal. When the cable is pulled, the cam plate allows the choke plate to close but there is a spring that actually makes that happen. The cam does not force the plate closed. It's the big round spring that makes about 2 1/2 rounds behind the cam plate and they are bad to break after time on one end, thus the choke plate never closes when the cable is pulled. And unfortunately, there is no replacement avaliable except from another used carb. (been there - done that)

This arrangement allows the choke to be pulled out but if the engine needs more air, the vacuum will force the plate open (against the round spring tension) so as to not totally wash down the cylinder with too much fuel. As to the cable not staying pulled, I'd have to look at it but I remember mine never needed more than 1/4 out to run on the coldest days, after the initial start-up. And my carb has long been changed and gone so I can only advise you pull yours again and study on exactly how it works on the choke side and be sure that spring is not broken. I assure you, tightening the nut on the rear will not have any effect on the cable drag.

 

Mine is doing the same thing... Glad I read this thread! Im going to fix it tonight.