Another Top End/ Base Gasket Replacement
#1
Another Top End/ Base Gasket Replacement
Tore into it today. Finally was above 40° here in SE, Pa. Working under the carport.
Things I noticed: Gaskets have been changed in the past because there were tell tale signs. Silicone sealant around the rocker box allen bolts, 1/2" and 7/16" hex bolts showed signs of being tightened with a dull socket. gaskets around the valve springs and push rods were single gasket not separate, metal head gaskets and metal/rubber base gaskets. And the kicker, 2 of the 8 head bolts (one FINGER loose/ not tight on the front jug, one barely wrenched tight on the rear jug). All 8 cylinder studs were installed collars up. I flipped 5 of 8 studs. 3 would NOT budge and I didn't want to break or twist them off. They will NOT turn without some serious persuasion. One cir-clip on the rear piston wasn't fully seated, only about 90%.
Curious if anyone has noticed different thread 'styles' on each stud? On the collar end the threads are sharp, and the other end they are flat. (see the pictures) 6 or 7 of the studs were not fully threaded into the block. One of them was out about 3 threads, the rest 1 or 2 threads. Only 1 was fully threaded into the block.
Jugs have a nice cross hatch pattern still in them, however, the front shows some minor vertical rubbing. Can't be felt as scratches. (pictures)
I welcome any inputs.
Threads sharp, threads flat, loose head bolt, front cylinder, rear cylinder
Things I noticed: Gaskets have been changed in the past because there were tell tale signs. Silicone sealant around the rocker box allen bolts, 1/2" and 7/16" hex bolts showed signs of being tightened with a dull socket. gaskets around the valve springs and push rods were single gasket not separate, metal head gaskets and metal/rubber base gaskets. And the kicker, 2 of the 8 head bolts (one FINGER loose/ not tight on the front jug, one barely wrenched tight on the rear jug). All 8 cylinder studs were installed collars up. I flipped 5 of 8 studs. 3 would NOT budge and I didn't want to break or twist them off. They will NOT turn without some serious persuasion. One cir-clip on the rear piston wasn't fully seated, only about 90%.
Curious if anyone has noticed different thread 'styles' on each stud? On the collar end the threads are sharp, and the other end they are flat. (see the pictures) 6 or 7 of the studs were not fully threaded into the block. One of them was out about 3 threads, the rest 1 or 2 threads. Only 1 was fully threaded into the block.
Jugs have a nice cross hatch pattern still in them, however, the front shows some minor vertical rubbing. Can't be felt as scratches. (pictures)
I welcome any inputs.
Threads sharp, threads flat, loose head bolt, front cylinder, rear cylinder
#4
yah, that might help.
1989 FLHS,47k. Just bought it a week ago $4500. Needs battery, and I was told it needed a head gasket. I noticed the base gaskets (as anyone would have).
Jump started it last Sunday when I got it home. Fired almost right up. Sounds good, no smoke, smooth sound, the fuel in the tank is almost bad. You can smell it is getting old. It has been sitting since late sept since last ridden. Guy traded it in, I bought it AS IS from a HD dealer in Harrisburg.
1989 FLHS,47k. Just bought it a week ago $4500. Needs battery, and I was told it needed a head gasket. I noticed the base gaskets (as anyone would have).
Jump started it last Sunday when I got it home. Fired almost right up. Sounds good, no smoke, smooth sound, the fuel in the tank is almost bad. You can smell it is getting old. It has been sitting since late sept since last ridden. Guy traded it in, I bought it AS IS from a HD dealer in Harrisburg.
#5
#6
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Coromandel Peninsula New Zealand
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Judging by the pig's ear somebody made of the top end I think I would pull it apart and check it over thoroughly unless there are obvious signs that the retard who put the top end "together" hasn't had his grubby little paws on the bottom end.
Pull the cam and stuff and maybe the primary, satisfy yourself that its gonna hang together.
Pull the cam and stuff and maybe the primary, satisfy yourself that its gonna hang together.
#7
yes the studs are like that with the early evo - i never liked the idea of turning them around except to replace them with what is being sold today as a replacement - the one side of the thread is rolled on to the stud, and the other looks like it is a cut onto the stud -- we believe this is part of the original issue with the studs pulling out, Harley put the studs in upside down for years - then someone looked at what was going on in the motor exchange program and changed it in production -- stupid for sure -- johnjzjz
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#8
I would also clean the top of the piston real good & see if it has over size ones in it , a number will be stamped in the middle 10, 20 ,30 if any of these are there it's been bored out A lot of guys did this years ago with a ev 27 cam on the bigger bikes it was like the thing to do back in the earley 90's on a lot of EVO's , & like spanner said double check every thing for a piece of mind
#9
Which way to install?
yes the studs are like that with the early evo - i never liked the idea of turning them around except to replace them with what is being sold today as a replacement - the one side of the thread is rolled on to the stud, and the other looks like it is a cut onto the stud -- we believe this is part of the original issue with the studs pulling out, Harley put the studs in upside down for years - then someone looked at what was going on in the motor exchange program and changed it in production -- stupid for sure -- johnjzjz
#10
Join Date: Dec 2010
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The flange end (first pic) goes into the cases, if it doesn't then the head nuts can bottom out, give the impression they are torqued and then you are straining the case threads when you do the final 90 degrees.
Its all supposed to swing around at the top of the stud with everything right and tight to the flange down at the bottom end.