EDIT: Probably should have mentioned its the 1340 EVO motor. That was probably obvious tho.

So I have installed some 10" bars on my 1991 FLHTC. Needless to say this has been more involved than I expected. I may start another thread to cover some of the issues I ran into. But for now I am dealing with the Clutch cable swap to an extended length cable +6". Silly me thought it would be just as easy as that. Nope turn out being a wet clutch I had to drain the Tranny fluid. Well I just got this ride last fall and hadn't done this myself yet. And do you think my manual would be correct in showing me exactly which drain plug was for the tranny? Nope! I have 3 manuals, digital and paper copy of the factory service manual and a Clymer manual. Not one of them clearly defined where my tranny drain plug was correctly. Mine is a 7/8' Hex plug under the tranny. Not knowing this I 1st drained the primary in hopes that it was the correct drain plug as I hadn't been in there yet either. So before I could finish installing my clutch cable I now had to fill the primary back up. Luckily I had all the oil needed on hand for all 3 holes because I had intended on doing all this myself anyways. Just not at this time.

So my 1st question lies with the Primary case oil level. Manual calls out for 38-44 oz, and states "On 1984-1997 models, Oil level must be even with the bottom of the clutch opening or the bottom of the clutch diaphragm spring" (See Figure 26 pic). What is the clutch diaphragm spring, where is it located? I added back in 40oz of transmission fluid, that brought the level up to the bottom of what I assume to be the clutch diaphragm, but it is no where near the bottom of the clutch opening. This seemed correct to me, and another 4oz would not have brought it up close to the opening either. I also assume the full 44oz is only needed if the case is dry, like from a rebuild? Is what I did here ok? To me the oil level looked to be even with the bottom of the "Clutch Inspection Cover" (I did not remove this at this time) which is to the left of the Clutch Opening. (See Figure 24 pic)

On to the Transmission: So after that I am still left with trying to get at the Clutch cable end installed. Still not knowing exactly where the tranny drain plug was (not at the bottom of the side cover like manual suggests, it even says to remove the exhaust) I just removed the side cover bolts and popped it off and let the fluid drain from there. This gave me access to the cable end and I got that changed out and reassembled. I then took a better look underneath and found that 7/8" hex plug and removed it draining the rest of the tranny oil. That is where I left it and need to fill it tonight, and adjust the clutch cable.

Then I will drain the engine oil, manual says to just drain the oil tank? Manual says the capacity is 4qts (See Figure Table 6 pic). That seems excessive. Pretty sure I read that with all the oil left in the oil cooler and lines and such it will probably only take 2.5-3qts, even with a filter change. I will fill about 2.5 qts and then warm it up to circulate then add if necessary. This procedure seems fairly self explanatory. But is there anything I should watch for?

I know this was a long post, probably needed just to vent a little bit. It has been a learning experience and I am certainly better off for it. This is my baby and will be for a long time coming. Good thing is that she runs great. It sat over winter for a full 6 months I never started it. When I got all my electrical wires on the handle bars extended and reconnected, I let the fuel go and hit the starter. It literally turned over 1 time and fired right up. I was amazed it didn't take longer to even get the fuel in there. Purrs like a kitten.

 

Later models are 3 quarts engine oil. Early models are 4. Two quarts in the primary and don't worry about it. What manual is that? 84 models are a dry primary.

 

Thanks Dr. Hess. Yes there are directions for both a dry and wet clutch. See pic of the front cover of my digital copy I have with me right now. I also have the Clymer and the Factory paper manual. Factory Manual is 1991 HARLEY-DAVIDSON FLT / FXR MODELS SERVICE MANUAL -FXRT-FXR-FXLR-FLHTC-FLTC .




So are you saying that filling the primary to the bottom of the Clutch Opening (Round Opening) is ok then? I only had 3 qts of tranny fluid on hand. I used 1 full qt (32oz) of one and then another 6-8oz from the 2nd qt into the Primary. My thought is to get the tranny filled back up and then put the rest into the primary then. If that's what you are suggesting.

 

The drain on my 1988 is on the bottom of the transmission, right side, up next to the frame rail, behind the exhaust. When I change my oil I just add oil till the level is correct. I honestly have no idea how much that takes. I keep a stock of oil all the time so, I just use what I need, bikes, cars, motorhome, etc.. If you haven't done it yet, make sure to pour oil in the new filter before you screw it on.

 

fb, you don't need to add oil to the filter first on an Evo. It is in the return line to the oil tank, not in a feed line to the engine.

The transmission takes one pint, per the factory shop manual. 44-48oz for the primary, but it is not critical. As long as there's oil for the chain, you're OK. So, up to the bottom of the clutch cover opening with the vehicle standing upright. Mine always seems to take right at 2 quarts. Yes, the round opening.

 

Went through this with my wifes 89 heritage last year , I add just to the bottom of the spring plate not to bottom of the derby cover lip. On my 89 flht I add 1 litre and call it a day and even then I see it could be less to just get to bottom of spring plate.

 

For the engine oil with bike on side stand I add to the tank after draining the oil until my index finger will touch the oil, also I fill the oil filter with oil and screw on. I then run the bike to get the oil circulating and finish filling tank to the second line on tank dip stick and ride.

 

Thanks everyone for all the replies. I feel better when hearing what others have gone through as well. As for the Primary I think I am just gonna run it up to temp after I get it going and then recheck it. It's been on my lift jack for 6 months and isn't coming down until I get the fairing and everything complete. Tranny is easy with the dip stick, as well as engine oil.


Thanks especially Dr Hess! You are a wealth of knowledge in these parts.

 

Tranny your suppose to do with bike straight up and tranny oil warmed up and on mine the dip stick just sitting on hole lip not threaded in.

 

Wasn't an option in my case being on the lift for so long now. And the only reason I went in was to change the clutch cable. Didn't realize going in that the trans needed to be drained until I read the manual. But it will be right in the end once I get it running all fluids will be double checked.