The exhaust and saddlebags came into contact with the road numerous times during the wobble in the video, with at least one time, the muffler hitting the road so hard it bent and flexed up.

 

Nope. My 96 FXDL will get crazy if you try to power it thru a long sweeping curve. Replaced worn out motor mounts, stabilizer link & lined it all back up with digital level & a line laser. Still not fixed. Haven't checked fall away in front forks or bearings, but front suspension is too soft, imo. Will be replacing rear tire, soon, & will check swing arm bearings while tires off. I'll find it. The PO put 1 1/2" shorter rear shocks on for appearance, & I think this is where my problem is. Looks cool as hell, but not cool enough to die in a curve, for. Almost bit it, last year.

When I was aligning the motor & swing arm back to the frame, I noticed that the front & rear wheels WERE parallel to each other, but not in line, meaning that the rear did NOT track exactly behind the front. There was roughly 1/2" difference. Just the way they are made.


Ride Safe,
Harold

 

Well I'm all out of ideas, last suggestion. Don't drive 110mph :-)

I suppose you have checked the trail on the front wheel. Using a long string take the steering head angle to the ground with the bike in the riding mode, next drop a plumb line from the front axle to the ground, this should be approximately 4.5in behind where the steering head touched the ground. The smaller this measurement is the more unstable the bike, conversely the greater the distance you may have to turn around in a Walmart parking lot :-)

You may have to research the exact angle/length for your set-up. repeat: it is called trail.

 

Thank you LowriderHarold and Kabear. I am currently upgrading my entire suspension and will make sure that As I do i will test ride in between to see what makes the most difference. Tonight I changed my original rear shocks and realigned my rear wheel. Sunday I will be installing new front springs, stops and seal kit. I set the alignment up on the rear so that the drive belt tracks properly on the trans pulley as well as the rear pulley. If I get lucky enough Saturday evening I will be able to take it out. And Kabear I don't build this to not go over 100... I've always been into performance and will eventually I will prevail. My biggest issue is me.....

 

Good luck 98Hotrod, once got a ticket for 135mph on my bike and 185mph in my Dodge Challenger.

So I know the feeling!

 

It may be in this thread somewhere, here's a few things.

Definately go though the neck, inspect bearings and races, with pinch bolts loose, tighten down snug, back off and adjust fall away to the tight side, may want to recheck after getting some miles on it.

If you still have tapered wheel bearings, get endplay down to .002" with clean, dry bearings and no seals, add extra spacers to the axle, torque and check it off the bike.

Make sure the spherical swingarm bearings are free and no play.

You can locate and dimple the centers of the swingarm pivot shaft so you can have reference to the rear axle in case something's amiss there.

 

and, check for lateral and radial runout of wheels and tires mounted on the the bike.

 

Shex, Thanx for the info on the swing arm pivot shaft. I never thought of using that as my refrence point...... Thanx man.. Last night i checked my fall off of the front forks. Seemed ok. Saturday night i will finish up the new springs and seals in the front..

 

Perhaps if you keep at 109 or below your problem will be solved. There was this guy named Darwin who had a theory...