EVO Overhaul
I was wondering if anybody knows of any documentation other than the service manuals for tearing down and rebuilding an EVO. I have a '96 with over 120k km (canadian eh) on it and it needs another once over. I do my own wrenching, but never did a full rebuild on a EVO anyway. Any help out or suggestions would help.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
I have a Clymer manual (covers 91-99 FXD EVOs) that I find more detailed than the factory manual for engine rebuild / inspection...
It's this one.
I also use the FSM. Sometimes the factory manual is more detailed, sometimes the Clymer.
It's this one.
I also use the FSM. Sometimes the factory manual is more detailed, sometimes the Clymer.
You are talking about just doing the top end...Correct? All of that will need to be 'farmed out' to a machine shop: Heads and cylinders will need to be machined. Unless you've got a Bridgeport in your garage. You will save some $$$ by doing the removal and installation yourself...Plus have that 'warm fuzzy' feeling when it does, infact, run.
Get into the lower end of the HD motor, and you'llneed some specialized tools for the crank, etc. And, IMO,a properly maintained EVO with 120k KM (around 75K miles) should not need anything done to the lower end.
Get into the lower end of the HD motor, and you'llneed some specialized tools for the crank, etc. And, IMO,a properly maintained EVO with 120k KM (around 75K miles) should not need anything done to the lower end.
The reason I thinkI need a overhaul (top end), is because I've developed a oil leak at the bottom of the cylinder. I'm guessing a gasket failure and figure it's gotta come apart anyway. Dealer told me that the cylinder studs are famous for streching? Have anybody heard of that? or is it just a good practice to change them anyway?
Thanks, again
Thanks, again
Cylinder base gasket leaking isa common problem on the Evos. HD didn't discover o-rings until the Twin Cam came out. Leaking usually occurs with improper warm up, IE, riding away before the jugs have time to expandfrom heat todevelop more pressure on the base gaskets.
A quick fixeduse (I learned from this site) flowable silicone windshield gasket sealer from Permatex. Clean the surfaces really good around the base and squirt this stuff into the base area. I did this several weeks ago and hasn't leaked or weep yet.
MikeyB
A quick fixeduse (I learned from this site) flowable silicone windshield gasket sealer from Permatex. Clean the surfaces really good around the base and squirt this stuff into the base area. I did this several weeks ago and hasn't leaked or weep yet.
MikeyB
Be sure to replace the base gaskets with the silicone coated metal gaskets like Cometic or James.
As far as cylinder studs, they stretch because of the different metals, iron and aluminum, in the cylinder and heads, which expand at different rates as they heat. If the engine is put together properly this is normally not a problem. The base gaskets fail because they are basically paper. But at least they were cheap. For Harley, that is.
As far as cylinder studs, they stretch because of the different metals, iron and aluminum, in the cylinder and heads, which expand at different rates as they heat. If the engine is put together properly this is normally not a problem. The base gaskets fail because they are basically paper. But at least they were cheap. For Harley, that is.
Your leak is caused by under-engineered gaskets. And if you look at the torque specs on tightening down those heads, you'll be amazed, especially if you've ever cranked down on some Shovel head bolts. Since the studs and nuts are steel, and the cylinders and heads are aluminum, they expand at different rates. If you are in the habit of firing the bike up, letting it warm only long enough to not die when you take off, then you'll get a base gasket leak.
You might be surprised when you pull the heads and barrels off at the lack of wear. Mine still had over 90% of the crosshatching at around 100,000 miles. Replace the base gasket with good gaskets as mp said. If you really want to ensure a leak-free mating, check out the fix that installs a tube in the oil return hole so oil never touches the gasket. (Arrgh! Can't remember the name of the kit!) Also, an Evo motor should be started and then allowed to warm up until it is uncomfortable to leave your hand on the cylinder before taking off. This allows the cylinders to grow and tighten against the crankcase and the heads before being subjected to stresses of boogyin' on down the road.I cheat on mine by starting it, letting it warm for about a minute, then idling down my 1/4 mile driveway, then barely above idle the 1/4 mile to the main highway, then easing out until about a half mile further when I start riding normally.
You might be surprised when you pull the heads and barrels off at the lack of wear. Mine still had over 90% of the crosshatching at around 100,000 miles. Replace the base gasket with good gaskets as mp said. If you really want to ensure a leak-free mating, check out the fix that installs a tube in the oil return hole so oil never touches the gasket. (Arrgh! Can't remember the name of the kit!) Also, an Evo motor should be started and then allowed to warm up until it is uncomfortable to leave your hand on the cylinder before taking off. This allows the cylinders to grow and tighten against the crankcase and the heads before being subjected to stresses of boogyin' on down the road.I cheat on mine by starting it, letting it warm for about a minute, then idling down my 1/4 mile driveway, then barely above idle the 1/4 mile to the main highway, then easing out until about a half mile further when I start riding normally.
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Pococj..........http://www.haydensm6.com/tof_single.htm is the kit that you were talking about or at least one of them that I know of. It took care of my leak and yes, everyone is right about the warm up
MikeyB Date 5/1/2007 7:45:55 AM Cylinder base gasket leaking isa common problem on the Evos. HD didn't discover o-rings until the Twin Cam came out. Leaking usually occurs with improper warm up, IE, riding away before the jugs have time to expandfrom heat todevelop more pressure on the base gaskets.
A quick fixeduse (I learned from this site) flowable silicone windshield gasket sealer from Permatex. Clean the surfaces really good around the base and squirt this stuff into the base area. I did this several weeks ago and hasn't leaked or weep yet.
MikeyB
A quick fixeduse (I learned from this site) flowable silicone windshield gasket sealer from Permatex. Clean the surfaces really good around the base and squirt this stuff into the base area. I did this several weeks ago and hasn't leaked or weep yet.
MikeyB
Here is the link to the thread (my post about 1/2 way down) that describes how to use the silicone windshield sealer.
https://www.hdforums.com/m_852393/tm.htm
RudeDog,
Only have a couple of hundred miles since resealing the base gaskets several weeks ago. Was also fighting carb issues that was limiting my riding (and the weather). Think I got that fixed now.
Heading out to the garage to finish installing the new handlebar, brake line and clutch cable so I can ride tomorrow.
MikeyB
Only have a couple of hundred miles since resealing the base gaskets several weeks ago. Was also fighting carb issues that was limiting my riding (and the weather). Think I got that fixed now.
Heading out to the garage to finish installing the new handlebar, brake line and clutch cable so I can ride tomorrow.
MikeyB







