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Your Air Ride Front Suspension

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  #21  
Old 12-03-2013, 09:14 AM
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I have it on my 1997 Dyna FXDL. It works perfectly. Where do I get more information on it. There is nothing in the OEM parts books for the Dyna and I don't see anything in the OEM Service manual either.

Lee
 
  #22  
Old 04-12-2020, 08:40 AM
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Question 2-3 psi and

Originally Posted by CSI
8-10 lbs, depending on if it is just me, or I am two up.....
I changed the fork oil in my flhs last year. it had two different amounts in the forks. I put 10 weight in and it dampens great at 50 deg. I think that with 20 weight or possibly 30 in high temps would be a more comfy ride. those of you who removed the air solenoid valve. to keep the front end from nose dive when apply the brakes. how is that with the valve open all the time.? I know mine was horrible when it did not work nose dive. I am an aggressive rider. hard brake and accel.
 
  #23  
Old 04-12-2020, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 18deluxerider
I changed the fork oil in my flhs last year. it had two different amounts in the forks. I put 10 weight in and it dampens great at 50 deg. I think that with 20 weight or possibly 30 in high temps would be a more comfy ride. those of you who removed the air solenoid valve. to keep the front end from nose dive when apply the brakes. how is that with the valve open all the time.? I know mine was horrible when it did not work nose dive. I am an aggressive rider. hard brake and accel.
1990 FLHS here, owned from new. I've ridden my bike with the air system intact without problems until fairly recently, so never rode it far with that valve disabled. I've upgraded my forks twice now, the first time keeping the valve and air, but with single-sate springs and Intiminator valves. That improved the ride up front quite a bit, but fitting Ohlins shocks raised the quality stakes at the rear end very significantly! So the front had to be improved too, and it now has Ohlins FKC101 cartridges.

I tinkered with different oils, but wasn't keen on the results, the forks have after all very basic damper rods, so will always struggle to give any more than a basic ride quality. I now have proper damping at both ends!
 
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  #24  
Old 04-12-2020, 11:02 AM
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Just changing to straight rate springs and fluid weight to meet your riding style will no longer make the air system needed. Found synthetic ATF worked well with straight rate springs, changed the rears to adjustable RCI shocks, even with 1" lower front and rear suspension the Evo rides better than my Roadglide.
The progressive rate springs are the source for a air suspension needed, trying to mask a soft area promoting the dive by compensation with specific air pressure, brilliant. Suspensions can get exotic and expensive, getting rid of the base problem up front would be good start instead of spending money and time trying to compensate for it.
 
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  #25  
Old 04-12-2020, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by cincypiper
Hi Folks:

A few questions for those of you with Air Ride Suspension up front. Admins, if this more appropriately belongs in the "Suspension" forum, whoops, and feel free to move the thread.

Doesyour air ride suspension up frontstill work?

What pressure do you run in it?

Have you had it worked on, and if so, how many miles did you have on the bike when it failed? Which components caused the problem?

Thanks in advancefor your responses.

Mike
max 25 psi front

 
  #26  
Old 04-20-2020, 05:06 AM
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rlh7135 that is the 95 and up to 98 the. psi for the older 87-93 was the lower threshold.
 
  #27  
Old 04-20-2020, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 18deluxerider
rlh7135 that is the 95 and up to 98 the. psi for the older 87-93 was the lower threshold.
The max pressure for rear shocks also varied over time. For my 1990 Glide, bought new, it is 20psi max rear shocks, 25psi forks.
 
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