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Fatboy won't start. Clicking sound.
1 Attachment(s)
My bike started not wanting to start occasionally. Starter would wind down before turning over, but usually fire on the next attempt.
It's a '97 that I bought last year, so having no idea how old the battery was, I replaced it about a week or two ago. No issues at first, but this morning it refuses to start and makes a clicking sound. Battery is definitely fully charged, but it won't start. Not sure what to look at next. Any ideas? Here's audio of what it sounds like: |
Update: I hooked up my battery tender after that last attempt I recorded. Then after about 20 minutes, I tried starting again for the hell of it, and it fires right up like nothing.
I had measured the voltage before hooking it up and it was about 12.2v. So now I'm really confused. |
You are not getting enough voltage to the starter. Check all connections include the ground. When bike is cranking voltage at the battery should be no lower than 9.5 volts.
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Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15310385)
I had measured the voltage before hooking it up and it was about 12.2v. So now I'm really confused. |
Yeah...it sounds strange. But, a fully charged battery under no load should read 12.6 volts or more. 12.2 volts is only 50% charged.
The electrical forum has a couple of stickys on how to diagnose the battery and charging system. Some quick ideas: : make sure all the connections at battery, starter, and regulator are clean and tight. : focus on diagnosing the charging system...but it sounds like a bad regulator. Good luck.. |
Hmm. Okay.
Bike sat for 3 days (not hooked up to tender) before today. Seems like it should hold a charge fine for 3 days, right? I'll look into checking the regulator. Battery is brand new. Anything else I can check to see if it's faulty or not? Thanks for the help. |
Carefully check that all ground and battery connections are tight including grounds to frame.
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Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15310421)
Hmm. Okay.
Bike sat for 3 days (not hooked up to tender) before today. Seems like it should hold a charge fine for 3 days, right? I'll look into checking the regulator. Battery is brand new. Anything else I can check to see if it's faulty or not? Thanks for the help. How much does the volt meter read when you are hitting the start button? |
Whoa! First thing you do is read and follow the excellent sticky at the top of this EVO forum by Dr Hess called "How to diagnose your charging system"
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Originally Posted by Beemervet
(Post 15310603)
Whoa! First thing you do is read and follow the excellent sticky at the top of this EVO forum by Dr Hess called "How to diagnose your charging system"
(Newbie error on my part not noticing it first) |
That's what we're here for (and to spend your money).:icon_banana:
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Originally Posted by texashillcountry
(Post 15310467)
Hook a volt meter up to your battery then hit the start button.
How much does the volt meter read when you are hitting the start button? It was at 13.05 with the bike off. 12.76 when on. And hovers between 11.1-11.5 while the start button is pressed. |
Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15310997)
Just charged the battery and tested.
It was at 13.05 with the bike off. 12.76 when on. And hovers between 11.1-11.5 while the start button is pressed. If that is the case then when the button is pressed you only have 10.85-11.25v. In that case your battery sounds weak. |
Originally Posted by Beemervet
(Post 15310603)
Whoa! First thing you do is read and follow the excellent sticky at the top of this EVO forum by Dr Hess called "How to diagnose your charging system"
Everything seems to check out except for when I rev it. While revving the bike, no change happens in voltage (stays around 12.7) According to the sticky, it should ideally be between 13 and 15. Here's the levels I get: Before test/Bike off: 13 Bike on: 12.7 While starter is engaged: ~11.3 While idling: 12.7 While/after revving: 12.7 After test/Bike off: 12.85 Regulator diode test seems fine. Stator doesn't seem to be shorted to the case. Also checked the terminals and wires to battery, they all seem solid as best I can tell. I'm fairly naive about this stuff. Not sure where to look next. |
Next thing to test is A/C voltage output from the stator.
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Originally Posted by Tommy C
(Post 15311207)
Next thing to test is A/C voltage output from the stator.
So, no voltage increase at the battery while revving, but the stator is putting out voltage. Does this narrow it down to the regulator? Or am I jumping the gun? |
Always start with a load test on the battery when you have issues. Its the cheapest thing you can do and usually points you in the right direction.
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Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15310385)
Update: I hooked up my battery tender after that last attempt I recorded. Then after about 20 minutes, I tried starting again for the hell of it, and it fires right up like nothing.
I had measured the voltage before hooking it up and it was about 12.2v. So now I'm really confused. 12.2 is probably around 50%. Check your manual it will tell you. 12.7 is full. Now the question is, it is it the battery or charging. It is a newer battery. Charging or connections. On my vehicles, clicking in 99% not enough power. Often loose connection, or low battery. |
Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15311300)
Okay, checked it. Stator seems to be putting out voltage fine. Around 20ish-30ish volts while revving the bike.
So, no voltage increase at the battery while revving, but the stator is putting out voltage. Does this narrow it down to the regulator? Or am I jumping the gun? I am going with bad volt reg, ignore the diode test Harley has. That seems to he dumb test. You could check the ground for the volt reg, where it makes contact frame. Harley regs dump to frame when not needed. My cycle electric does not. |
Originally Posted by d24112
(Post 15311325)
Always start with a load test on the battery when you have issues. Its the cheapest thing you can do and usually points you in the right direction.
You can also debate if a laod test if a destructive test. I work with 125 volt DC batteries. It is a debated topic. |
Originally Posted by texashillcountry
(Post 15311039)
With the numbers you provided it sounds like your volt meter is reading about .25 volts too high.
If that is the case then when the button is pressed you only have 10.85-11.25v. In that case your battery sounds weak. But still comes back to is battery or charging. His battery is new. But some guy sure fo through batteries, maybe hot climate, don't ride them, or cheap. I get 9 years, and don't use tenders. My neighbor buys odd ball batteries and swears you need to replace every year. |
Originally Posted by Zerk
(Post 15311373)
Shouldn't you be closer to 100volts ac when reving, atleast 70-80, if memory serves.
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Originally Posted by Owtlaw
(Post 15311706)
Nope. He's in the ballpark.
20 Volts per 1000 rpms, is ballpark, more for 45 amp little less for 38 amp alternators. Just looked in my 01 electric manual. Which is still single phase. Somebody needs to chime in with an Evo. I could be wrong, since I have TCs, but I doubt it. |
Originally Posted by Owtlaw
(Post 15311706)
Nope. He's in the ballpark.
No.
Originally Posted by 89FLHT
(Post 9808654)
EVO Charging
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one. When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks: Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging. Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test. Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output. To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop. Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...RPM+harley+evo |
Best thing to do is get an electric manual. I dont have one for both my bikes, havent needed it yet for 07. 2nd is google and reads lots of stuff.
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Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15311300)
Okay, checked it. Stator seems to be putting out voltage fine. Around 20ish-30ish volts while revving the bike.
? You can ohm stator leads and check resistance. I don't know specs. If memory serves there should a value between leads and infinite each lead to ground. Or the other way, I forget. But I think the first one. Time to think about getting a new belt while you are that far. Primary bearing? Cheap, I would do it. It is a bit of an undertaking time wise, so go over everything good, make sure something is not missing. |
Originally Posted by Zerk
(Post 15311388)
Depends how long the bike was off. You may read 13 volts if it has not been off for long. Best to wait 8 hours or next day, then read battery it should be 12.7.
But still comes back to is battery or charging. His battery is new. I have had new batteries that were bad off the shelf. |
Double check the ground wire from the starter to the frame. I had a similar issue on a 99 Sportster that was an intermittent but recurring problem. Everything would test great and the bike would run perfect...and then unexpectedly, I'd go to start it and all I would get is a clicking sound. It just about drove me to drink
It turns out the terminal of the ground wire was very rusted and just about making contact with the ground wire itself. Due to its location, it wasn't particularly accessible or easy to inspect. The slighest bump or vibration would cause the connection to be broken or greatly weakened. |
Originally Posted by texashillcountry
(Post 15311903)
Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good.
I have had new batteries that were bad off the shelf. But he said he got 20 volts AC when revving bike. So that says he is not charging. |
Originally Posted by rainsong
(Post 15311128)
I followed through this whole sticky...
Everything seems to check out except for when I rev it. While revving the bike, no change happens in voltage (stays around 12.7)
Originally Posted by Zerk
(Post 15311911)
Not impossible.
But he said he got 20 volts AC when revving bike. So that says he is not charging. Hey rainsong take off the derby cover and give the primary a sniff. Do you smell anything?? A strong burnt smell indicates your stator is done. I have a 27v 3 phase Cycle Electric system for a EVO softail new in the box that I bought and never used. PM if you're interested. |
Sorry disregard previous post. I didn't hear the audio until today.
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The A/C output of the stator should be 32-40 volts @2000 rpm.
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Originally Posted by Zerk
(Post 15311379)
I never have. I get out a meter.
You can also debate if a laod test if a destructive test. I work with 125 volt DC batteries. It is a debated topic. Not that kind of load test. Just check the battery on a battery tester before rebuilding the whole engine. |
Lots of great advice here. Thanks, guys, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to double check my stator's AC output levels and make sure I wasn't doing something wrong/stupid when I was testing it. And then I'll start going through everything mentioned here. |
Originally Posted by d24112
(Post 15312297)
Not that kind of load test. Just check the battery on a battery tester before rebuilding the whole engine.
Having a voltmeter connected to the battery when you hit the start button is load testing it. |
Originally Posted by texashillcountry
(Post 15312742)
Having a voltmeter connected to the battery when you hit the start button is load testing it.
Works every bit as good as a carbon pile or resistance type load tester. |
Good news. I re-checked the stator, and it seems to put out plenty of voltage.
I don't think I revved the engine much at all when I checked yesterday (was following a YouTube video where the guy barely revved checking his). But today I revved it up good with the voltmeter hooked up and it easily gets up to above 50/60v revving it around 2000-3000rpm. The battery seems to charge up fine every time I hook it up to my tender. Stator checks out fine. Wiring and connections all look fine. And I know that battery voltage does not go up AT ALL while revving the engine... From everything I've googled and read on here, it sounds like the voltage regulator is the culprit, yeah? Anything I can do to test it before I just go buy a new one? Or should I be pretty certain that's it now? |
Looks like the regulator is bad. One final check you can do is to trace the output wire from the regulator & make sure there are no breaks in the wire or insulation & it has a good connection where it terminates at the circuit breaker.
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Regulators are weak points for Harley.
I am willing to replace items as a matter of maintenance. If a volt reg fails the opposite way, it can destroy a battery, maybe it has, it can fry electrical. Have you had any light bulbs fail that were black inside? Tha some times indicates over voltage. There isn't much to a carbed bike for electrical and starting. Only a few pieces. Granted it is easy to spend other peoples money. |
Originally Posted by Owtlaw
(Post 15311706)
Nope. He's in the ballpark.
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