Voltage Regulator Failure
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: West ******
Voltage Regulator Failure
Greetings all, I am new to Harley ownership. I just purchased a 1991 Elecraglide Sport. I am having a problem with the charging system. I will tell you what I have done so far. I replaced the battery because the guy I bought from said the battery was for a Sportster. I replaced the voltage regulator because he also said it was for a newer model and everything worked fine for about two weeks. Yesterday on my way into work my blinkers stopped working. I figured that it was because the spot/floodlights were on and I was stop and go all the way to work so the battery wasn't charging at a low RPM. I tested the battery, the alternator and the voltage regulator when i got home.I found that the votage regulator went bad. Does anyone have any idea what would cause it to fail?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
Likes: 402
From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
sometimes they just go, they need to exchange heat, so if the air flow is blocked they burn up.
or a wiring problem
or overloaded
signs of a bad regulator will be AC voltage supplied to the battery ( the regulators converts AC voltage to DC- and limits the DC to under 14.8 volts DC) or voltage output over 15 volts DC which will burn out the battery.
you have checked the stator as per the manual ?
mike
or a wiring problem
or overloaded
signs of a bad regulator will be AC voltage supplied to the battery ( the regulators converts AC voltage to DC- and limits the DC to under 14.8 volts DC) or voltage output over 15 volts DC which will burn out the battery.
you have checked the stator as per the manual ?
mike
Last edited by mkguitar; May 16, 2012 at 12:03 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 9,975
Likes: 5,213
From: Michigan
Keep in mind that there are people with 2012 models who are having voltage regulators failing and hopefully that will solve your charging issue.
I've never had to replace my voltage regulator on my 2000 Ultra but I did have to replace the stator near the 40,000 mile mark.
Be sue to check all of your wiring and that the battery cables and grounds are clean and tight.
I've never had to replace my voltage regulator on my 2000 Ultra but I did have to replace the stator near the 40,000 mile mark.
Be sue to check all of your wiring and that the battery cables and grounds are clean and tight.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,377
Likes: 222
EVO Charging
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,928
Likes: 69
From: Near Myrtle Beach, SC
EVO Charging
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement
The first thing to check if you suspect a charging problem is the battery and the wires attached to it. If the wires are loose, make sure to tighten them up. If you see any corrosion, disconnect them and clean them off with a wire brush before re-attaching. Check each cell on the motorcycle battery to make sure the electrolyte is covering the plates, if not, carefully add distilled water until the fluid reaches the "top" line on the side of the battery. If your battery is less than fully charged, use a low amperage charger (1 to 3 amps) and charge it until the indicator says it's full. If it doesn't take a full charge, replace it with a new one.
When your wires are clean and secure and the battery fully charged, you can get started checking the system. Perform the following checks:
Battery: Turn ohmeter to the DC Volts setting that can read 12V or more. With your motorcycle off, read from Positive to Negative making sure the Red is +, Black is -- If battery is good you should get about 12.5 to 13.5 volts
Charging: Using same multimeter range, start the motorcycle and run RPM's up to above idle.Voltage should increase to several volts above initial reading, usually to about 14.7 V Voltage should not go much higher than 14.7 V. If voltage goes alot higher when you rev the engine, you could be overcharging due to a voltage reg problem. If voltage doesn't change, your motorcycle is not charging.
Stator: If your motorcycle is not charging, you need to check the stator. Locate the plug for the stator on the front of the engine block. Switch the multimeter to OHMS range on the lowest setting, usually 10 ohms. With the motorcycle off, read between the 2 pins or holes in the block. These should show continuity. If your meter is accurate you could read 1 to 3 ohms, but cheaper meters will not be that accurate. As long there is continuity it passes this test.
Now change the setting on the multimeter to the highest OHM range like 100K. Touch one probe to a pin or hole in the engine, the other to the engine case or a metal bolt on the engine. The meter should not move. Try the other pin the same way and it also shouldn't move. If you get any reading the stator is shorted and must be replaced. This requires special tools and you should consider taking it to a shop. If you get no movement on the meter, it's not shorted out so you need to check for output.
To check for output, change multimeter to AC Volts setting over 100 Volts. With the alternator plug disconnected, start the bike. Use the probes (not polarity sensitive) to read between the pins or holes in the engine block. You should read about 20V per 1000 rpm's. At idle expect about 25V, as you rev the engine it will increase to 60 or 70 Volts. If it does your stator is OK, if you get no output the stator is bad and you will need to replace it or take it to a shop.
Voltage Regulator: If your stator is not shorted to ground and has the proper output, your regulator is most likely the culprit. If your stator checks out OK but battery voltage doesn't increase when the motorcycle is running, the regulator isn't doing it's job and needs to be replaced. It's an easy swap, just make sure you bring the old one with you to make sure they give you the correct unit. If the battery voltage goes too high when you rev the motorcycle the regulator isn't limiting the voltage and again it needs replacement
If you don't have a volt-ohm meter, consider getting one. You will be amazed at how handy it will be during your bike ownership. Recommend having both a digital and analog meter.
My money is on a bad stator. If your stator is fried, then your primary oil will stink like hell.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: West ******
Thanks all, for your input. I have tested the stator with the engine not running. it passed both of these tests. I will try the output test as you mentioned. i guess I need to make sure I'm not getting too much AC current out of there. The battery is brand new and the wires and connections are all clean and good. the circuit breaker connections are solid but there is a little bit of play in the housing its in. My oil doesn't stink at all. I guess I will just try another new regulator. Does anyone have any preference? I was thinking about going with the one from Accell. Thanks again!
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,377
Likes: 20
From: Kafar Hanusi
89FLHT:
Nice easy writeup on what & how to check the charging system, I'm going to use this on my Sportie due to the same issue with VR, thanks.
Nice easy writeup on what & how to check the charging system, I'm going to use this on my Sportie due to the same issue with VR, thanks.
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Novice
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
I have a 2012 Limited and I received a fault code of P0562 (low voltage) and had the local HD shop look at it. Turns out the voltage regulator was bad and they replaced it. My bike has only 2019 miles on it. Things happen but from what I have read, there does seem to be some quality assurance issues with the voltage regulators.
Just thought I would add my experiences so that others can learn from it just like I have from other posts.
Just thought I would add my experiences so that others can learn from it just like I have from other posts.
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: West ******
I did the AC test with the bike running, volt meter in the stator holes and the levels were acceptable. I just ordered another regulator so we'll try it again. I also forgot ask low country, how does one describe the smell of hell? Is it the fire, sulfur and brimstone, kinda hell? Or the stink after rolling over a skunk and having fresh guts cooking on hot pipes in the middle of nowhere. Not being able to wash that funk off for anything. My God what a ride! Ha ha! Thanks again for all youse guys help.