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guys long story short. bad oil pump 3 years ago. I cut the old pushrods to remove the cam cover. I fix the pump, put it all back with new stock lifters and vthunder adjustable pushrods. got the lifter on the base(low) did my 18 flats. but it is very tight. I rotate the wheel but if feels like a bind. and I did let it bleed down. Now I got this bike used. and I think they had solid lifters. look at pic. do solid lifters use a different cam?
guys long story short. bad oil pump 3 years ago. I cut the old pushrods to remove the cam cover. I fix the pump, put it all back with new stock lifters and vthunder adjustable pushrods. got the lifter on the base(low) did my 18 flats. but it is very tight. I rotate the wheel but if feels like a bind. and I did let it bleed down. Now I got this bike used. and I think they had solid lifters. look at pic. do solid lifters use a different cam?
No but you do use a different method on the adjustable pushrods than you use if you have hydraulic lifters.
This post is a little hard to understand. Sounds like you had a bad pump three years ago, and now just fixing it? or you fixed it three years ago, and now doing something else that you need to get back into it.
No matter, I don't think your bike had solid lifters initially, because you would have cut adjustable PRs. So, with the binding issue. When you adjusted your PRs with cam lobe at base; waited for it to bleed down, were you able to spin the PRs freely? Are the 18 flats correct for your particular PRs?
You installed the oil pump on correctly right? Could be a number of things, so just step back and review your steps. Good luck.
I have never seen a true solid lifter for an EVO...but several company's make hydraulic lifters with "limiters" that make them act like solids at high RPM.
If you have a set of these you will need to get instructions from the manufacturer, as they adjust quite different than regular lifters.
True solid lifters have to be set with "lash" when cold...in hopes it will get to 0 lash when at operating temp.
My guess is you have "none of the above" since you had stock pushrods.
Last edited by Tom84FXST; Apr 19, 2017 at 03:26 PM.
Ya, I am going to have to pull the cam cover and check things out. on the oil pump, just got to it this year. and when I did pull the pushrods they were adjustable, but I had to cut them as they were still to long. I did put in a set of stock lifters. so I am thinking I might have my mark on the cam wrong.
ya, the lifter in the picture i cant push it in so i bet it was solid. i did just pull the cam cover and my timing marks are in the right place. guess i will try one more time. after i let it bleed down and i rotate the motor(with back wheel) how hard should it be to move when it is opening the valve?
ok sorry been so long on this.( i am a field service tech, never home) but i did install new stock lifters and redid the adjustment, same thing. as far as the cam in this i don't know. and this is the very early EVo's 1984 the ones with the dry clutch. one thing what is the yellow mark on the gear?
My guess would be the color coding for the matching of the cam gear and pinion gear. Look on the cam gear, you will probably see a yellow dot on the face of the gear if it is the original. YD
1984 FLHTC pushrods.
