like the title says, my battery is good, checked pos and neg lines, get power to starter( i have a pushbutton on the starter plunger) get power to the main circuit 30amp. ive got good ground, tested all over frame. both 15 amp breakers have continuity, checked the ignition switch, the wires get power when they are supposed to, but i get nothing, no lights at the ignition, no headlights, horn, spark. no power anywhere.

my bike is a 94 flstf fatboy.
dyna ignition.
super e carb
andrews ev-27
thunderheader pipes

recently had a regulator issue, that was putting 18v back into the system, not sure if that did damage to other things. so i have a brand new battery and 30amp main.

i picked the 94 as the 2 most complex parts are the TSM and the Ignition module.

ive followed everything i could think of, besides a bad connection at the harness connector, down between the tanks. that i couldnt get to on the side of the road.

any input or advice that could be laid down upon would be appreciated, as im stumped. and my next step is to get her home and start testing wire by wire.

 

little backstory to the issue, i rode it from job one to job 2 with no problems. went to start her up....nothing. checked battery. good. check starter. good. check 30 amp fuse, i touch it, it sparks. lights go on. she warmes up, i take her 200yards to gas station. get gas, start her back up. get on, and.....no click, no pop. just no power. i had to coast up the hill. and pulled off the first side street, and pushed her the remaining 5 blocks back to job 2.

 

If start with the ignition switch.....

 

my plan was to open up the ignition switch when i get the bike back home. and rebuild it, but i dont think thats the problem as i get continuity and power through it when its clicked to its coresponding screw points. thanks for the idea

 

With a volt meter, or even a test light in this case, start at one end and work your way to the other. Ground the negative of the meter to the engine case or frame, check for +12v at the + of the battery, then the starter solenoid, then both sides of the 30 amp breaker, then on to the ignition switch, to the other breakers. At some point, you won't have +12v.

 

^^^^this

I think you will find one of the wires is broken or the stud they mount to has come off the ignition switch.

If it is the stud get a new switch from Harley.
I tried the aftermarket ones and both of the ones I got failed in 6 months.

 

New guy here, I have an intro post going up shortly.

I agree you should investigate the switch. There was a recall on my 1994 Electra Glide, for what sounds like the same problem. The switch was potentially faulty and the concern was that the bike would just shut off mid-ride, kinda sounds like what you have going there. I can't find the link where I looked it up, but I think I found it using the VIN.

 

1994s used the old style key switch with the wires screwed to the switch and the contacts inside are bar and spring that are worn each time you turn the switch when mine went out on me ,I got it home by playin with the switch when it shut off. switched to 1999 style with 3 wires and round key.

 

Checking out the starter switch is a good consideration. I know you said "power to breakers" are they old or new? I would replace them also.

Run through the suggestions already listed, but double check/clean the key switch and replace the breakers also. My 94 has the barrel style ignition switch.

How old is the starter and have you looked at the starter contacts? They could be all pitted and oxidized. Might need a cleaning on them also. YD

 

Yankee, the 2 15 amp ones are old, good idea ill just replace em, replaced the 30 amp right after i changed my regulator, i do have the old style switch, i plan to take it apart and rebuild it this sat. my starter is new, put it in near the end of last season. at that time i added a manual plunger so i have a backup to the relay.

thanks for all the ideas, ill let yall know how it goes later.