97 roadking running rough ( check engine light )
#11
06-24-2017, 02:16 PM
Tourer
Hi (especially to IM)
I have a 97 road king that has been playing me up for months. The most recent "fix" was to replace the temperature sensor which fixed the problems I had with under/over revving, black smoke, and backfiring.
Now I have a CEL indicating 56 Cam/Crank position sensor. It is not on permanently but I suspect it is being re-generated after every run, rather than just indicating an historic fault.
But how do I know which sensor is playing up?
The symptoms are:
1. The bike will run fine for a few miles then cut out completely. After a few minutes it will start again and get me home.
2. On occasion, if I rev the engine at a standstill, it will cut out immediately. But not always.
3. Yesterday, bike would not start after being ridden and left parked for 30-45 minutes. A prod and poke at every electrical connector and wire from each sensor all the way back to the ECU, which I repeated twice, and the bike started. But I am not sure that I actually did anything during that prodding and poking!
Thinks to note: I have a Power Commander 3 fitted, but the "rev and cut out" happened when I took the PC out of the loop. I have reconnected the PC now.
I have an SS Stroker kit and high lift cam. Had this setup for about 10 years so not sure it would be relevant.
What would be your view on the issue? I have double checked the cam sensor twist and lock thing and it 'appears' to be very tight and when I put it back I wedged it so that both ends were pushing against each other. Highly scientific I know!
I'm ok with replacing a sensor but I didn't want to replace both just because I'm not sure which one is failing....
I have a 97 road king that has been playing me up for months. The most recent "fix" was to replace the temperature sensor which fixed the problems I had with under/over revving, black smoke, and backfiring.
Now I have a CEL indicating 56 Cam/Crank position sensor. It is not on permanently but I suspect it is being re-generated after every run, rather than just indicating an historic fault.
But how do I know which sensor is playing up?
The symptoms are:
1. The bike will run fine for a few miles then cut out completely. After a few minutes it will start again and get me home.
2. On occasion, if I rev the engine at a standstill, it will cut out immediately. But not always.
3. Yesterday, bike would not start after being ridden and left parked for 30-45 minutes. A prod and poke at every electrical connector and wire from each sensor all the way back to the ECU, which I repeated twice, and the bike started. But I am not sure that I actually did anything during that prodding and poking!
Thinks to note: I have a Power Commander 3 fitted, but the "rev and cut out" happened when I took the PC out of the loop. I have reconnected the PC now.
I have an SS Stroker kit and high lift cam. Had this setup for about 10 years so not sure it would be relevant.
What would be your view on the issue? I have double checked the cam sensor twist and lock thing and it 'appears' to be very tight and when I put it back I wedged it so that both ends were pushing against each other. Highly scientific I know!
I'm ok with replacing a sensor but I didn't want to replace both just because I'm not sure which one is failing....
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blackhatphil (06-25-2017)
#12
06-24-2017, 09:30 PM
Sit on bike.
Place right foot on floor board.
Get off the bike and look under right floor board towards the motor with a good flashlight at black wire that exits the timer cone bottom.
NO tools required for this diagnosis other than a flashlight...nothing to remove.
Wire has an allen/hex bolt to hold wire as it exits the bottom of cone.
If you see the beige goo at wire exit then the CAM position sensor is sick and your replacement will have a black sealant.
Removal of negative battery cable will clear code.
The pencil thick wire that gets loose is called a CRANK sensor connector.
In reference to spark jump : i believe he wants you to slide or roll the boot up the wire for one spark plug and to let the spark jump from the tip of spark plug wire to the tip of spark plug. DO NOT HOLD WIRE during test.
Place right foot on floor board.
Get off the bike and look under right floor board towards the motor with a good flashlight at black wire that exits the timer cone bottom.
NO tools required for this diagnosis other than a flashlight...nothing to remove.
Wire has an allen/hex bolt to hold wire as it exits the bottom of cone.
If you see the beige goo at wire exit then the CAM position sensor is sick and your replacement will have a black sealant.
Removal of negative battery cable will clear code.
The pencil thick wire that gets loose is called a CRANK sensor connector.
In reference to spark jump : i believe he wants you to slide or roll the boot up the wire for one spark plug and to let the spark jump from the tip of spark plug wire to the tip of spark plug. DO NOT HOLD WIRE during test.
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blackhatphil (06-25-2017)
#13
06-25-2017, 04:17 AM
Sit on bike.
Place right foot on floor board.
Get off the bike and look under right floor board towards the motor with a good flashlight at black wire that exits the timer cone bottom.
NO tools required for this diagnosis other than a flashlight...nothing to remove.
Wire has an allen/hex bolt to hold wire as it exits the bottom of cone.
If you see the beige goo at wire exit then the CAM position sensor is sick and your replacement will have a black sealant.
Removal of negative battery cable will clear code.
The pencil thick wire that gets loose is called a CRANK sensor connector.
In reference to spark jump : i believe he wants you to slide or roll the boot up the wire for one spark plug and to let the spark jump from the tip of spark plug wire to the tip of spark plug. DO NOT HOLD WIRE during test.
Place right foot on floor board.
Get off the bike and look under right floor board towards the motor with a good flashlight at black wire that exits the timer cone bottom.
NO tools required for this diagnosis other than a flashlight...nothing to remove.
Wire has an allen/hex bolt to hold wire as it exits the bottom of cone.
If you see the beige goo at wire exit then the CAM position sensor is sick and your replacement will have a black sealant.
Removal of negative battery cable will clear code.
The pencil thick wire that gets loose is called a CRANK sensor connector.
In reference to spark jump : i believe he wants you to slide or roll the boot up the wire for one spark plug and to let the spark jump from the tip of spark plug wire to the tip of spark plug. DO NOT HOLD WIRE during test.
The timer cone on my bike has, over the years, had the rivets replaced by screws so I can easily look in and see that the cam position sensor isn't fried.
So this leads me to think that it is either a faulty crank position sensor OR a loose connector under the right cover (or possibly both I guess).
If/when it stops again I'll try looking for the spark...
Cheers
Phil
#14
06-25-2017, 01:38 PM
#15
06-26-2017, 04:36 AM
Black. Definitely. It was replaced a 3-4 years ago. Everything pointing to the crank position sensor or its connector, I reckon.
#16
07-03-2017, 06:43 PM
Wouldn't start so waited 10 minutes. Started. Ran for 50 yds and cut out completely. Waited another 10 minutes and got me the mile or so home. Looks like I need to replace the Cam sensor - is there any alternative to the Harley one??
#17
07-04-2017, 04:47 AM
Tourer
OK, just shows how wrong I can be. Replaced Crank position sensor today. Bike ran like a dream until I stopped.
Wouldn't start so waited 10 minutes. Started. Ran for 50 yds and cut out completely. Waited another 10 minutes and got me the mile or so home. Looks like I need to replace the Cam sensor - is there any alternative to the Harley one??
Wouldn't start so waited 10 minutes. Started. Ran for 50 yds and cut out completely. Waited another 10 minutes and got me the mile or so home. Looks like I need to replace the Cam sensor - is there any alternative to the Harley one??
Read post 16
#18
07-04-2017, 07:49 AM
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rockhousebadboy (07-04-2017)
#19
07-05-2017, 09:11 AM
Tourer
Welcome. Just wish I would have had this information before I shelled out $200 for mine....LOL...Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
#20
07-05-2017, 06:36 PM
I would like to hear if the non-EFI part works. I had been told the only difference is that the EFI part also has a Bank Angle Sensor in it so the bike will shut off if it tips over. I try not to tip my bike, and I know where the kill switch i9c if I do. I have not been able to verify that the carbed sensor will actually work in an EFI bike.