it was just a suggestion...he asked the question..it doesnt have to be a pissing contest on who's advice he takes.

 

Too bad you took it that way........ bud.

 

This is a PDF log file, the readings are 3 times a second, you can go to 10 times a second, but that makes the file way to large. I bought my PC5, auto tuner and data logger last year for about $850, I don't know what they cost today.

 

I have the same bike.
You may wish to consider waiting a few months just to make sure the bike is OK first.
Adding items to a new to you bike that is that old can confuse you if something presents a problem.
13,000 miles is nice and low so lets look at safety first.
Look for date code stamp on the tires...a 4 digit number...something like 4610 would mean the 46th week of 2010...old tires are dangerous when they get hot. So if older than 7 years consider changing now.
Next
Look for a melted goo under right timer cone at wire exit...by the right foot floor board..look at wire exiting the V2 bottom...any beige goo ? goo means the cam positions sensor is melting and that requires replacement because it makes starting difficult..lots of cranking...then more cranking..then more cranking...then more cranking...then frustration...wait a minute and it starts....if you see goo then it is a $195 dealer only part since it is fuel injected.
Next
Look at swivel on each fuel line as it exits tank....leaking?, smell? ...original is not serviceable...the cost effective replacement is Goodridge brand HDFL005 at about $150 dollars total for both...if yours are factory original then non-serviceable o-ring is dry by now..
Next
How is the odometer? any black spots on LCD screen?..just want to know...it does not alter performance...just wanted to know if it was original speedometer.
Next
The crank position sensor connector might be loose..located on throttle side, behind red painted side cover (remove saddle bag and remove cover to investigate), look in triangle frame area for black pencil thick push and turn type connector and put 4 zip ties on that connector to frame if you want to avoid a problem of it getting loose and engine cut-off...that frustrates some folks big time..it is a free fix.
Next
Remove top access panel from fuel tank and grab the USA quarter size piece of liner that dislodged from tank center and is plugging or will plug the inlet... service manual says to not re-use screws because of plastic collars but it really depends on the situation..there are about 10 screws.
Finally,
The shift rod joints...the items at the end of the visible shift rod that runs from transmission to your left foot control will break at the knuckle joint...you will be rather upset because you can not shift...rather than use a shoelace to tie-up stuff to get home ...just buy two heim joints and use the same rod NOW..you can get two heim joints and required bolts for about $20 on ebay...also make sure the 1 allen/hex is tight at the transmission lever too.
If you do the above then the bike should be very reliable for a long time.
The dealer techs and numerous people do not read the one chapter in the service manual that would help them understand the simple M & M system...
Many get upset and sell or go carb when it could have been addressed from the start.
It would be a waste of money to go carb when the problem was a loose cam sensor connector.
The Harley service book is part number 99483-98..check Harley for price and compare with used book price.
I almost forgot the engine temp sensor that sometimes causes surging or throttle flip flop from high RPM to low RPM rapidly due to wrong information from the engine temp sensor...that is $100 part...but you are about 30,000 miles below when that might happen.
Consider avoiding the use of synthetic oils unless you want to locate every possible leak the bike can produce.
The top of the saddle bags in your picture look like the plastic support has cracked.
You might want to investigate purchase of some used bags.
Once you check all of the above then you may wish to consider review of a simple airfilter change, some slip-ons and a fuel adder.
If you have visual inspections in your jurisdiction then you might want to review something like reworked factory pipes fro B & E mufflers from ebay or maybe go online to american custom exhaust.
The service book and a parts finder should help you understand your bike.
Here is a link for a parts finder to help you identify parts
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc
Most of the problems with M & M in my opinion were because of lack of knowledge or not wanting to read the harley service manual...M & M is used in a lot of expensive high performance vehicles and unless you are planning to build some high torque monster it should not be a concern at this time...it is a really simple system, simpler than Delphi. ..although the carb is the simplest system possible.

 

Thanks so much im!

 

[QUOTE=im;15851920...if you see goo then it is a $195 dealer only part since it is fuel injected.[/QUOTE]

You don't have to use that particular sensor plate at all unless you just want the lean angle sensor that is on that one. Doesn't have anything to do with it being injected as it is the same on carbed models of that era too. The older pickup works (32400-94) the same at a cost of around $40. Just doesn't kill the ignition if you drop it, so don't drop it.. LOL.

Griz

 

Part number 32400-94 from Harley lists at $92.99
Does that part number match the same factory cup?
Reason: the 32400-94 $92.99 Harley sensor is matched with Harley rotor cup 32402-83 at $11.49
The 32448-95a Harley sensor $186.99 is matched to a different cup number of 32456-95.
The reason i ask is another member in the past tried the same with a fuel injected bike and it would not start. He then put a used sensor in the bike and it started fine.

 

I don't go to HD for anything that I don't have to. You can buy them from Standard Motor Products ($38.57) or any aftermarket supplier for half of that. I just pulled the original one out of my 98RK w/EFI and put in one from them last weekend when installing a new cam/lifters in it. Original cup.

Now if you go carb'd from EFI, you need to swap cups as they are different, but the sensors will still work on either setup.

All the newer one does is add in the lean angle sensor to the mix. Check out a 98 carbed and it is the same one. I've converted a couple and used the same sensor plates both times with new cups.

No clue what the deal was on your buddy's.

This is on a 1999 Softail carbed.. LOL..

32402-83 ROTOR, CAM POSITION
32448-95A SENSOR ASM., CAM POSITION/VEHICLE ATTITUDE


Griz

 

Would you happen to know what the standard motor products p/n is for the EVO head temp sensor? HD p/n is 32446-95A.

carl

 

I run a PC3 on my 97..Works great never had an issue..