Bad battery
Looking for help with an electrical question on a 93 FLSTF:
findings (battery removed, ignition off)
Bad ignition switch??
Thank you for your help!!
- 3rd battery bad in 3 years
- replaced regulator last year
- all electrical + accessories work
findings (battery removed, ignition off)
- 2 ohm resistance - starter relay to ground
- 2 ohm resistance - positive to negative battery leads
- continuity to ground for all other ignition switch connections
Bad ignition switch??
Thank you for your help!!
Looking for help with an electrical question on a 93 FLSTF:
findings (battery removed, ignition off)
Bad ignition switch??
Thank you for your help!!
- 3rd battery bad in 3 years
- replaced regulator last year
- all electrical + accessories work
findings (battery removed, ignition off)
- 2 ohm resistance - starter relay to ground
- 2 ohm resistance - positive to negative battery leads
- continuity to ground for all other ignition switch connections
Bad ignition switch??
Thank you for your help!!
How do you store your battery in the winter?
Tom84FXST:
Battery is stored in bike on a battery tender in unheated, detached garage - tender shows a green light
The battery I just replaced showed green on battery tender, but was only good to turn the engine over once or twice (not enough to start a cold bike!)
Beemervet:
Voltage across battery terminals (analog meter)
off = 13V
on = 12.5V
idling = 12.8V
2500 rpm = 12.8V
idling high beam on = 12.8V
idling 100A load = just under 11V
Stator check
- continuity between 2 stator pins
- continuity between stator and ground
==Bad stator
Battery is stored in bike on a battery tender in unheated, detached garage - tender shows a green light
The battery I just replaced showed green on battery tender, but was only good to turn the engine over once or twice (not enough to start a cold bike!)
Beemervet:
Voltage across battery terminals (analog meter)
off = 13V
on = 12.5V
idling = 12.8V
2500 rpm = 12.8V
idling high beam on = 12.8V
idling 100A load = just under 11V
Stator check
- continuity between 2 stator pins
- continuity between stator and ground
==Bad stator
Tom84FXST:
Battery is stored in bike on a battery tender in unheated, detached garage - tender shows a green light
The battery I just replaced showed green on battery tender, but was only good to turn the engine over once or twice (not enough to start a cold bike!)
Beemervet:
Voltage across battery terminals (analog meter)
off = 13V
on = 12.5V
idling = 12.8V
2500 rpm = 12.8V
idling high beam on = 12.8V
idling 100A load = just under 11V
Stator check
- continuity between 2 stator pins
- continuity between stator and ground
==Bad stator
Battery is stored in bike on a battery tender in unheated, detached garage - tender shows a green light
The battery I just replaced showed green on battery tender, but was only good to turn the engine over once or twice (not enough to start a cold bike!)
Beemervet:
Voltage across battery terminals (analog meter)
off = 13V
on = 12.5V
idling = 12.8V
2500 rpm = 12.8V
idling high beam on = 12.8V
idling 100A load = just under 11V
Stator check
- continuity between 2 stator pins
- continuity between stator and ground
==Bad stator
And I don't think a Stator with no Output, can harm a Voltage regulator..
it is Not very difficult to put an AC Meter accross the Stator Output pins.
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Correct Racepres, When doing a stator test volt meter on a/c, leads connected to stator engine rpm 2000 you should see in the area of 36v a/c.
Disconnect stator connection at front left of engine by the oil filter. Start bike and check AC voltage with a meter at the two female pins in the rubber connector at the block. Not the connector on the regulator but the one at the block.
I repeat: set meter to AC VOLTAGE, not DC. Take note of how much AC voltage at idle and then at 2000 rpm and then 3000 rpm. This will tell you if the stator is putting out the required voltage. Compare those numbers with what your manual states for ac voltage at the various rpm's. This is a good starting point.
If your getting the required AC voltage, then the problem lies with connections, voltage regulator or something further down the line on the electrical. YD
I repeat: set meter to AC VOLTAGE, not DC. Take note of how much AC voltage at idle and then at 2000 rpm and then 3000 rpm. This will tell you if the stator is putting out the required voltage. Compare those numbers with what your manual states for ac voltage at the various rpm's. This is a good starting point.
If your getting the required AC voltage, then the problem lies with connections, voltage regulator or something further down the line on the electrical. YD











