I trude fly wheels to zero on the crank and pinion what is the best way to tighten down the nuts without throwing them out of specs I seem to be having this problem wherever i tourqe them to spec

 

Generally, I loctite and fully torque the nut on pinion side of the crank pin and get the "clock" and run-out close with the sprocket side half torqued (doesn't take much hammering that way). Then using the channel plates again, back off the sprocket side nut of the crank pin, loctite it and fully torque. THEN, check/adjust the clock again. When the high spots are in the same location, start spreading or clamping as necessary and using a zinc/aluminum alloy hammer (or lead) start beating ........ Don't use a brass hammer - that's way too hard and will dent the wheels.

But yes, it has to be fully torqued when you adjust for true. And never hammer on one when it's in the dead centers. Take it out every time, beat and beat then chuck it up again and re-check. With pressure applied using either a clamp or wedge/spreader, strike the wheel ONLY on the edge of the wheels. Never hit the sides. Doing the clock is self explanatory, and when doing the clamp or spread thing, strike wheel edge only at the crank pin.

I suspect you already have a good sense of what it takes to do all this and wish I lived closer so I could physically help. But look on the bright side, when you've mastered truing just one, you'll have a skill that most people will never attempt to learn!

 

Hello to you 150..we have chatted about this subject once before...i am doing the best i can this is a subject not many people are skilled in i appreciate your advice and i will try again soon ..i also do wish you lived closer ..you have awealt of knowledge i would rely like to learn...i would like to keep in touch ...

 

Well... I don't know everything, but I've done a few flywheels.
Glad to help, any way I can.