EVO All Evo Model Discussion

Replacing front cylinder head gasket

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 06:26 AM
  #1  
northcoastmopar's Avatar
northcoastmopar
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 194
Likes: 22
From: Cleveland Ohio
Default Replacing front cylinder head gasket

Due to oil leak at the mating line on the front cylinder of my 96 FXDL I decided to replace the head and base gaskets (no leaking prior from base).

Everything going ok, just waiting on gaskets to arrive and all I need to do before reassembly is remove old gasket from cylinder base.

I couldn't see where the leak was occurring, the old gasket didn't show any damage. I set the head back on the cylinder without a gasket and there is no rocking so it appears the surfaces are flat. All of the head bolts seemed to be torqued fine.

At any rate, one thing that was strange was that one of the head bolts (front outer) appears to be oxidized/rusted. See pics? I will certain run a thread chaser through that bolt with oil before reassembly. Wonder if anyone has seen this before and possible causes?

Rust/corrosion inside bolt




Oxidized bolt

 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 08:32 AM
  #2  
WP50's Avatar
WP50
Seasoned HDF Member
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Photoriffic
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,183
Likes: 2,131
From: W. Texas
Default

It just happens over time. 26 yrs of time.
Do like you said and clean it up. Ya might move that one to where it,s not seen

WP
 

Last edited by WP50; Jul 1, 2021 at 12:05 PM.
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 09:46 AM
  #3  
Yankee Dog's Avatar
Yankee Dog
Grand HDF Member
Veteran: Navy
15 Year Member
Liked
Community Favorite
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,705
Likes: 3,015
From: Brighton, MI
Default



Also, yes to lubing the head bolt threads, just don't use to much. Also a light coating of lube the underside of the flange to each of those head bolts where they make contact with the heads for a more accurate torque value.
 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 10:03 AM
  #4  
EVOrider's Avatar
EVOrider
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,558
Likes: 280
From: Russellville, Arkansas
Default

Agree with the others…..but, could replace the head bolts if you wanted. They’re cheap enough.

Other than that….I would consider doing the rear as well depending on mileage. Basically nearly there with much labor already behind you.
 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 10:15 AM
  #5  
vicsponjr's Avatar
vicsponjr
Road Warrior
Veteran: Army
15 Year Member
Liked
Community Favorite
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,278
Likes: 189
From: Ridley Park, Pa.
Default

I too would replace the bolts, and chase all the threads. That's if you can get them. It seems like everything is on backorder.
 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 02:01 PM
  #6  
t150vej's Avatar
t150vej
HDF Community Team
20 Year Member
Community Favorite
Top Answer: 3
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,365
Likes: 2,558
From: NC USA
Community Team
Default

Originally Posted by northcoastmopar
Due to oil leak at the mating line on the front cylinder of my 96 FXDL I decided to replace the head and base gaskets (no leaking prior from base).

Everything going ok, just waiting on gaskets to arrive and all I need to do before reassembly is remove old gasket from cylinder base.

I couldn't see where the leak was occurring, the old gasket didn't show any damage. I set the head back on the cylinder without a gasket and there is no rocking so it appears the surfaces are flat. All of the head bolts seemed to be torqued fine.

At any rate, one thing that was strange was that one of the head bolts (front outer) appears to be oxidized/rusted. See pics? I will certain run a thread chaser through that bolt with oil before reassembly. Wonder if anyone has seen this before and possible causes?
Nothing out of the ordinary in photos, so all that's been covered. I agree, you should do front and rear especially since you've already ordered gaskets and you're 2/3 the way there already.

Note - unless you ordered teflon or copper head gaskets, most head gaskets including OEM no longer use the o-ring on the cylinder drains, just so you know.
 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 02:36 PM
  #7  
northcoastmopar's Avatar
northcoastmopar
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 194
Likes: 22
From: Cleveland Ohio
Default

Originally Posted by t150vej
Nothing out of the ordinary in photos, so all that's been covered. I agree, you should do front and rear especially since you've already ordered gaskets and you're 2/3 the way there already.

Note - unless you ordered teflon or copper head gaskets, most head gaskets including OEM no longer use the o-ring on the cylinder drains, just so you know.
Ok...enough of you have mentioned it I guess I will pull the other jug and replace both cylinder head and base gaskets. I ordered these gaskets here. Cometic was mentioned in another thread but like everything else they are out of stock. I'll try to find some new head bolts if they are available as well. So with these I would not use the o-rings, correct?

Thanks everyone!






 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 02:52 PM
  #8  
northcoastmopar's Avatar
northcoastmopar
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 194
Likes: 22
From: Cleveland Ohio
Default

Also, bike has 16k miles on it.
 
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 03:14 PM
  #9  
t150vej's Avatar
t150vej
HDF Community Team
20 Year Member
Community Favorite
Top Answer: 3
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 5,365
Likes: 2,558
From: NC USA
Community Team
Default

Originally Posted by northcoastmopar
Ok...enough of you have mentioned it I guess I will pull the other jug and replace both cylinder head and base gaskets. I ordered these gaskets here. Cometic was mentioned in another thread but like everything else they are out of stock. I'll try to find some new head bolts if they are available as well. So with these I would not use the o-rings, correct?

Thanks everyone!
Correct. They will not be in that set. I mentioned it because your originals are the earlier OEM style that did use o-rings.

If you pull the cylinders and pistons together, you will need to replace the wrist pin locks that you remove. Be sure you get them for OEM pistons. Different manufacturers use different locks, some will interchange, others will not, so don't chance it. And again, do not re-use the lock rings you remove.

If you leave pistons on the rods and remove cylinders only, you will need new rings (Hastings 2M-6164) and to lightly hone with a 240 or 260 grit ball type hone. No torque plates required for that.

Wrist pin locks: part# 22589-83B Most retailers keep them
 

Last edited by t150vej; Jul 1, 2021 at 03:27 PM. Reason: locks
Reply
Old Jul 1, 2021 | 08:14 PM
  #10  
northcoastmopar's Avatar
northcoastmopar
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
10 Year Member
Photogenic
Liked
Loved
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 194
Likes: 22
From: Cleveland Ohio
Default

Ok…I’m trying to get rear rocker box off. I got the 4 Allen bolts out but I can’t get the top cover out because off no clearance between the frame and the rocker box.
Are there any tricks here?
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:08 AM.