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I believe the spring plate has exploded in a 1997 Electra Glide, there is lots of fine brass particles and a few small chunks. The problem is I think there is so much debris between the clutch plates that I can't get the diaphragm spring to compress to get the retainer out. The spring is sitting flat, it has no bow to it, that's why I think it's packed tight against the retainer ring. Any suggestions on removal would be appreciated. Right now it looks like I might have to try and cut the retainer ring and spring seat out. Thanks in advance.
Ok I finally got it by rotating it around back and forth that gave me enough movement to press the spring seat down as I went around to get the retaining ring out but it was a bitch.
I would get a decent after market clutch pack that eliminates the spring plate..
Or upgrade to the 98 up clutch shell.. If you do that you will need to use the 98 up starter pinion to match the ring gear on the newer shell/basket. It will also change you primary ratio from 1.54:1 t0 1.50:1. It'll help you a little on the Hwy. It'll lower you rpm's by 3%.
If spring plate looks like this above, or any brass rivet that broke free, then check the spines on both the inside of out basket and inner hub spines for grooving.
May luck up with some file work if only lightly grooving damaged, but if major grooving on both, then basket and inner hub need to be replaced, then look into replacing the basket of either after market that does not use the spring plate, or one from 98 bike.
The 98 clutch did away with the spring plate, and when to two inner jutter springs instead.
As for the spring plate on the pre 98's, I replace them like clock work every 30K since they are only $30, and before they can start to come apart to do about $500 worth of damage to the clutch basket and plate assembly. Some have gone to extra plate clutches to remove the spring plate, but can cause clutch Jutter problems with the heaver bikes on hard launches.
I would get a decent after market clutch pack that eliminates the spring plate..
Or upgrade to the 98 up clutch shell.. If you do that you will need to use the 98 up starter pinion to match the ring gear on the newer shell/basket. It will also change you primary ratio from 1.54:1 t0 1.50:1. It'll help you a little on the Hwy. It'll lower you rpm's by 3%.
Not trying to nit pic or split hairs, only trying to clarify:
I have a 37707-98a clutch basket (complete clutch from a 2005 fxdwg ) just waiting for a reason to install on my 1994 fxds. I double checked starter pinion part numbers and starter ring gear tooth count numbers, etc over the winter when I started looking into to getting the later model clutch.
My 1994 ring gear and the 2005 ring gear show a 66 tooth starter ring gear and both the 1994 and the 2005 show a 10 tooth starter pinion gear.
According to what I found, both my 1994 and the 2005 Fxdwg (the bike I got the clutch from) show the same part number of 31342-94 for the starter pinion gear.
A google search on part number 31342-94 shows it is a 10 tooth starter pinion gear.
Is my data/info correct? Again just wanting to double check. If I need a 9 tooth starter pinion then so be it and I will get it.
Nice to know that the newer clutch will drop the RPM's a wee bit. Thanks for the info. YD
Not trying to nit pic or split hairs, only trying to clarify:
I have a 37707-98a clutch basket (complete clutch from a 2005 fxdwg ) just waiting for a reason to install on my 1994 fxds. I double checked starter pinion part numbers and starter ring gear tooth count numbers, etc over the winter when I started looking into to getting the later model clutch.
My 1994 ring gear and the 2005 ring gear show a 66 tooth starter ring gear and both the 1994 and the 2005 show a 10 tooth starter pinion gear.
According to what I found, both my 1994 and the 2005 Fxdwg (the bike I got the clutch from) show the same part number of 31342-94 for the starter pinion gear.
A google search on part number 31342-94 shows it is a 10 tooth starter pinion gear.
Is my data/info correct? Again just wanting to double check. If I need a 9 tooth starter pinion then so be it and I will get it.
Nice to know that the newer clutch will drop the RPM's a wee bit. Thanks for the info. YD
@Yankee Dog Maybe it's the 93 down baskets that take the 9 tooth.. I could've been wrong.. You are correct, you need the 10 tooth for the newer clutch baskets.. The 2005 clutch pack can take a lot more power too especially with a screaming Eagle diaphragm spring.. Also it should be a direct bolt on but the only thing you will have to do is turn the chain adjuster shoe around to take up for the extra slack and the chain because that's a 36 tooth gear on the newer baskets..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Aug 14, 2024 at 07:35 PM.
Maybe it's the pre-91 baskets that take the 9 tooth.. I could've been wrong.. You are correct, you need the 10 tooth for the newer clutch baskets..
OK, thanks, Glad that is cleared up. I feel better now... as I did the searching and according to my harley parts manual I'm thinking it was early model year
1994 (but not 100% sure) and before that shows the 9 tooth starter pinion. I think the starter was updated mid year 1994. Makes things interesting when getting parts.
Did not know about the chain slack. Thanks for that! I have the 2005 tensioner also. Looks a little different but still looks like it will fit in my 1994 primary and looks like it is flipped like you mentioned. I guess the truth will come out when it's time to install.
OP sorry to hi Jack your thread.. @Yankee Dog You'll need to use your original just like it is with the shoe flipped around.... Don't forget that the matching compensator for the newer baskets is 25 tooth..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Aug 14, 2024 at 08:11 PM.