On my 95 e-glide when I ride to work in the morning my volt gauge reads about 13-13.5 volts. After sitting in the sun all day in the 90 degree heat it will read in the 11-11.5 volt range. The needle will also swing with my signals. I have yet to do any testing but looking for some direction. I run my spots all the time. They do seen to draw a bunch of voltage. I have never had issue starting. I was thinking about just replacing my regulator, It is the factory one and with 70K looks horrible.

 

Check the stator output 20 volts per thousand rpm approx 40 + volts AC at 2000 rpm Those bats for that year HD go 3 years I replace mine every 3rd year Glass mat bats maybe 4 years

 

Our 95 FLHT reads 13-13.5 volts at the gauge too, however when we put a good multimeter on the battery it shows 14-14.4 volts. We cleaned all teh terminals, grounds and other connections with no change. Conclusion: Harley volt meters are as accurate as their gas gauges. As long as it starts with no problem and keeps the battery charged then it is the "Normal" reading for your bike. Our gauge also moves wih the turn signal too, this is nornal in most Harley's of that era. We replaced the charging system with a 40 amp three phase and it went away. We did not replace the charging system because of the flicker, we replaced it because the 40 amp system was on sale!!

 

Hey John,
Is that 40 amp 3 phase system HD or aftermarket?

 

First, ALL alternators will charge (maximum capacity) when cold, and its ability to do so drops as the temperature rises. They ALL do that - car, truck bus, whatever. The alternator stator is already well on its way to warm at 90-100 degrees, so when you pull the battery down starting, it's not charging max on the "ride home" and the low reading is due to the poor input of the ACC circuit.

On these era bikes especially, the volt gauge is reading only what is at the "end" of the ACC circuit which is not heavily supplied, wiring-wise. The barely adequate (at best) ACC circuit is the reason your signals swing the voltmeter wildly. So as previously mentioned, the gauge likely isn't giving you a good reading, though I've found most HD voltmeters quite accurate when connected to a good, strong circuit.

There's a good number of threads with checking and options concerning this aggrevation but in short - you can either re-route connection of the voltmeter to the IGN breaker, and/or install a relay for the ACC circuit that will boost it's amperage capability. Either one will give the meter a chance show you what the overall charging system is doing.

Always check voltage at the battery first, then work your way back thru the stator test as George noted.

Three-Phase charging system? Now we know who's making the big bucks

 

The battery is brand new. I will check my stator output. I am curious ablut the three phase charging system.

 

I bought a 40 amp three phase from cycle electric. Works fine as I have extra lights. t150vej is right on and he is one smart man always great advise.
Good luck

 

T150vej is a right on guy but he has got to get off of those 714's !!!!!

 

But I am an American and according to all I hear and see lately, I am well within my rights to say; "it's not my fault" ... George is the one who reminded me where they were in the first place

 

Compufire aftermarket, great sytem, I think it freed up some HP too!

T150vej: Remember I said it was on sale, plus as a shop owner I know the boss and he lets me pay wholesale:-)!!