did ya check the air in yer tires, mannnn?


(good luck, Ken!)

 

In most digital meters there is a fuse that you can replace....might be your meter problem.

 

If you had it set to milli-amps and put it on the battery with the motor running then you probably toasted the meter or atleast the fuse. The battery in my truck went bad, totally dead, and my buddy could not believe it. So he hooked my meter up to it after we jumped it, of course he had it set wrong and even after replacing the fuse it did not work right except for continuity.

Pop the derby cover and take a wiff of the oil like John said earlier, it really smells bad in there when the stator goes.

Doug

 

Try swapping your leads. Current only flows in one difection. Some meters will read "-" if your leads are backwards(on the voltage setting).

 

Swapping leads won't matter measuring AC volts, only DC.

 

I just want to say, for the record, that I HATE multimeters and have NEVER found success using one. I find them to be nothing but a source of frustration. In the end, I usually just end up replacing stuff until I get to the problem. I just don't get why they have to be so complicated. I suspect it is my lack of understanding, but being a fairly intelligent being you would think it would have "clicked" at some point over the last 25 years of wrenching on things.... but it hasn't. I'm all for smellin' the oil - my nose apparently works better than my brain.

 

mjunk1, your problem isn't the multimeter. Your problem is lacking a basic understanding of electricty. Once you understand the physics behind it, then the meter will make sense. It all starts with atomic structure and electrons. That's where you have to start, then work your way up from there. It really isn't complicated or difficult. Electrons flow in a conductor like water in a pipe. Current is the flow rate, measured in Amps. Pressure is measured in Volts. Resistance (to flow) is measured in Ohms. All three are mathmatically related as: Current = pressure divided by resistance, or I=E/R where I is current in Amps, E is voltage (electromotive force) and R is Resistance in Ohms. You can rearrange the numbers with simple Jr.High algebra and solve for any of those in realtion to the other two.

You have to look at what your measuring, think about what it is you want to know, then set your meter to the appropriate scale. Never try to measure ohms on a live circuit. For most users, never use the Amp (current) settings at all.

And as Doug sez, if you have the meter set at current (amps, miliamps) and put it across a voltage source like a battery or the stator (running), then you will blow the meter or at least the fuse in it, or the circuit your testing, depending on what's weakest. Same thing with putting it on Ohms and putting it across a big voltage source. This is a common amateurish mistake, but I've seen professional Maritime Engineers (schoolship boys yet, that is, Maritime Academy graduates) do this regularly. I was on one ship where they blew both of their Simpson meters doing that, then got upset when I wouldn't give them mine to use.

 

OH HELL! I fergot to do that, Dale! Will it make a diffurntz? The horn honks, so WTF?

 

It's here! Latest Bertha Test with NEW Multimeter...

JOHN - I also opened up the inspection cover and took a whiff. Smelled like used transmission fluid. Oddly, that's exactly what's in there! MAYBE I smelt a slightly burned odor, but definitely not a "stinking gun"!

Thanks everyone for your help!

 

That's strange. I've never seen one fail quite like that, that is, no voltage output but with reasonable continuity between the leads and no short to the case. Weird. Inspect the rotor closely as well, although I can't think of a situation where there wouldn't be some voltage output, even if weak. I have seen some strange things happen with circuits under power that didn't happen when there was no power. I remember a TV set that blew fuses when plugged in but had no shorts when not plugged in. It only shorted at 115V.