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My riding season is OVER

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  #41  
Old 10-06-2010, 03:36 PM
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You can try this. First get a magnet put in in a clean drain pan. Next get a few gallons of kerosene and a syphon hose 1/4-3/8" should do. Put the can higher than the engine, get a syphon going, stick the hose in the hole where the cam bearing should be and let it flush out the motor through the oil pump scavange hole. See what is stuck to the magnet and make your decision based on that. You should also get some flow through the right side bearing too. Hope this helps.
 
  #42  
Old 10-06-2010, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Do you feel lucky? Well... Do You?

What do you have to lose if you just put it back together?
Without knowing what trash is inside the cases, the engine is at risk, at the very least.

alaska jeff: for you, winter is here, you have plenty of time to remove the engine from the frame and disassemble it and survey the damage.

If you decide to go with the re manufactured engine program, put the engine together with some donated old parts and send it to harley.
 
  #43  
Old 10-06-2010, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan89FLSTC
Without knowing what trash is inside the cases, the engine is at risk, at the very least.

alaska jeff: for you, winter is here, you have plenty of time to remove the engine from the frame and disassemble it and survey the damage.

If you decide to go with the re manufactured engine program, put the engine together with some donated old parts and send it to harley.
I was thinking of that too, BUT doesn't the dealer have to remove the old engine and reinstall the reman to have it covered under the warranty?
 
  #44  
Old 10-07-2010, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by alaskajeff
I was thinking of that too, BUT doesn't the dealer have to remove the old engine and reinstall the reman to have it covered under the warranty?
Yes, you would have to put the engine back into the frame.

I think the engine must be able to run when you bring it to the the dealer (not sure about this), that is why I said re assemble it with old, donated parts.
 
  #45  
Old 10-07-2010, 05:53 AM
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flush the engine, tank and lines. Then put that turkey back together and enjoy it.If you have it out of the frame it is easy enough to pull the cylinders and give it a good flushing. Remember if you get a reman HD they are the same people that put it together the first time, and you will still have a shitty cam bearing. It is a lot cheaper to fix you present engine and make it much better than a reman. Just my two cents worth.
 
  #46  
Old 10-07-2010, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Hess
Do you feel lucky? Well... Do You?

What do you have to lose if you just put it back together?


Originally Posted by miacycles
flush the engine, tank and lines. Then put that turkey back together and enjoy it. If you have it out of the frame it is easy enough to pull the cylinders and give it a good flushing. Remember if you get a reman HD they are the same people that put it together the first time, and you will still have a shitty cam bearing. It is a lot cheaper to fix you present engine and make it much better than a reman. Just my two cents worth.
 
  #47  
Old 10-07-2010, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by miacycles
flush the engine, tank and lines. Then put that turkey back together and enjoy it.If you have it out of the frame it is easy enough to pull the cylinders and give it a good flushing. Remember if you get a reman HD they are the same people that put it together the first time, and you will still have a shitty cam bearing. It is a lot cheaper to fix you present engine and make it much better than a reman. Just my two cents worth.
It's NOT out of the frame YET...But I have flushed it out with minimal findings. GOOD INFO, thanks.
 
  #48  
Old 10-07-2010, 07:05 PM
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It is true that after such a failure that small metal pieces can get into the big end bearings, jam a roller, and cause skidding, leading to a very costly repair, including the re-doing of everything you are doing now.

Naturally, anyone that might be getting a paying job could be even more inclined to stress this point.

I have done a number of cam bearing failure repairs where the owner(s) did not want to do anything more than clean-up(pump etc), replace the minimum(relatively speaking), and move on.
While I do not know what eventually occurred in every case, in the ones that I do know, there was no further difficulty. In other words, they did not blow to bits shortly after. They went for many miles without any issues relating to that area.

If it were my motorcycle, I would split the cases.
But, of course, I do not have to pay, which really influences my decision greatly.
 
  #49  
Old 10-08-2010, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by IronGear
It is true that after such a failure that small metal pieces can get into the big end bearings, jam a roller, and cause skidding, leading to a very costly repair, including the re-doing of everything you are doing now.

Naturally, anyone that might be getting a paying job could be even more inclined to stress this point.

I have done a number of cam bearing failure repairs where the owner(s) did not want to do anything more than clean-up(pump etc), replace the minimum(relatively speaking), and move on.
While I do not know what eventually occurred in every case, in the ones that I do know, there was no further difficulty. In other words, they did not blow to bits shortly after. They went for many miles without any issues relating to that area.

If it were my motorcycle, I would split the cases.
But, of course, I do not have to pay, which really influences my decision greatly.
Very good point, IG. Always good to hear the Voice of Experience.

There is always the "right" way (usually involving a substantial number of Benjamins), and the "what I can afford now" way. Often, the latter option will do the job, but it's always a crap shoot.

Given my personal record in LA$ VEGA$, that option would bite me every time, but others would likely do much better than I would... one little tiny shard of metal in there would most likely take out my entire low end!. Story of my life...
 
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