Here's what I did to an "H" pipe that I bought off ebay. Cut off the cross over and patched with some stainless sheet that we had laying around at work. Leak tested with water as I'm not the greatest welder in the world. Still need to clean up and maybe paint with high temp silver but I hope to have installed this weekend. Will let you know how it goes.

 

Your welding is good. The part you need to focus on is pic #2. You can see an abrupt turn in your pipe as the exhaust leaves the rear head. This causes heat to loiter at your exhaust valve & could burn it pre maturely.
Look for some pic's on google that show the configuration of factory true duals & you will see that the curve is not so tight.
I was going to do exactly what you have done, but I am now going to take the winter & weld a custom set of pipes that won't hurt my valves.
Let me know how your pipes work out & how they sound!
Hatch.

 

This is the route I went.

http://www.fullsac.com/true-dual-kits.html

Take your time, follow the instructions, and you get a leak-free installation. I've had mine on for about 4 years and love it. Still a whole lot cheaper than a complete true dual setup if you are happy with your current mufflers.

....and I would have to agree with Hatchet....

 

I've looked at pictures of the fullsac and the B&E kits and fail to see how my creation is much worse, other than looks. I emailed both outfits and asked if I could purchase the "J" pipe by itself. B&E won't break up a kit, Fullsac wants 125 bux for just that piece. I did install the pieces I made, and the sound is much better than the stock head pipes. I'm running B&E Superflow mufflers with 2" baffles. The big difference in my "J" pipe is that a bit of turbulence may be caused by the "square" corner as opposed to the rounded pieces these two companies make. THat said, I may play around with the extra exhaust pieces, and try to make a rounded "J" pipe.

 

That crossover pipe is there for a reason on the stock exhaust as it balances the exhaust back pressure/header volume for optimal engine performance. Just because it's louder will not mean it runs better and may cause the loss of midrange acceleration. I noticed that many aftermarket "true duals" have a big "curly Q" on that left side/rear header pipe to add the volume lost by eliminating the crossover. Something to consider when doing a homemade cut job.

 

Ah, the great true dual debate, revisited! I'm well aware of the purpose of the crossover pipe. I have looked at the "true dual" kits and modified mine to sort of emulate their design. After market true duals are outrageously expensive IMO. I still have the stock "H" tube in case I need to change things back. I simply wanted to hear the difference. I knew that I may well give up a couple of horsepower but I'm not a drag racer so it doesn't matter to me. Seat of the pants "dyno" tells me, no change!

 

Beautiful bike btw.

 

Thank you very much!

 

Dual exhaust with short pipes can cause a problem unless you compensate by adding more baffle into the rear head pipe to equalize the back pressure.
with longer pipes you will get a bit more forgiveness.
running smaller diameter pipes will actually help with scavenging because it causes moderate restriction.

 

Why not try cutting the rear pipe with a circular cut instead on the flat cut? Might reduce some of the turbulence from the squared off flat cut.